Tashkent, Uzbekistan Report of what it's like to live there - 08/24/14
Personal Experiences from Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I've lived in Europe, Russia, Kazakhstan, and Korea.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. Maybe 20 hours or more - depending on connections. Long. Jetlag is impressive.
3. How long have you lived here?
Since Winter 2013. Currently living here.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Various types of housing available. Commutes are about 20 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The basics are available. The prices are relatively low unless you are buying imported goods.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Canned fish, peanut butter, shampoos and conditioners, anti-perspirant, body crèmes/lotions, floss, vitamins and supplements, cereals, crackers.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are no international fast food chains available here. They have their own fast food - lavash, plof and sashlik. There are some good restaurants in town - Turkish, Korean, Chinese and European. The International Hotel has an excellent brunch most Sundays.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitos, flies, ants, locusts.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I do through my work. They have DHL and FedEx here for international mailings. I don't know how reliable the national post office is here.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
US$20 a day. Easy to find someone. They require a great deal of management.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. Outrageous cost. US$3,000 a year. There is a small, free gym where I work.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is a cash economy. You can only use Visa cards at a few banks. That makes internal travel for tourist difficult.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I understand there is a Catholic service in English on Sundays.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Everybody here speaks Uzbek and Russian. I use my Russian, but find it useful to study Uzbek to fully understand what is happening around me and read signs. There is much more English here now - the government is encouraging the study of the language. Teenagers are keen to interact with expats who speak English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. It's not a handicap friendly environment. That said there are continuing efforts to change that.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local trains and buses are generally safe - use caution at night of course.
Taxis are dangerous because many have shoddy conversions to natural gas.
Public transport is quite cheap. You can take the brand new air-conditioned fast train between Tashkent and Samarkand for US$54 return trip.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I would bring an SUV. The availability of parts and service are sketchy. You have to be careful of gasoline because it is frequently watered down. There are many local restrictions and duties. I haven't heard of any carjackings - there are strict punishments for car thieves here. The reality is, if you have brought a car here, then you work for an international institution that will help you support that vehicle.
The roads are crazy. Nobody understands the concept of choosing one lane, using turn signals, distance between vehicles or maintaining a 'communal' speed in a group. Pedestrians treat roads like parks - they wander through them with no cares, highways are even bigger parks for them. Horses and cows frequently wander over roads the same way. The police are constantly pulling people over for infractions of the law. It's the worst traffic I have ever seen in my life.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We have internet. It's not high-speed. You'll get used to it. I think I pay US$40 a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
No problem. You can get them easily here.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine necessary. There is a vet who caters to expats. No kennels that I've heard of. Generally, you ask a friend or colleague to take care of your pet.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. There really are not.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Not that many, but they do exist.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work, suits. In public, casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It's a relatively safe city. The police are very active here.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There is one international medical clinic here. I think it is average healthcare. 'Tashkent Tummy' is prevalent. The heat and the dust can be very enervating in the summer.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
In the summer it gets very dusty in Tashkent as it doesn't rain for months.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winters are relatively warm with February dropping to -20C. Summers are very hot - upwards of +40C. Dry climate.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Tashkent International School and the British School. Both have good reputations.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are preschools and nannies are very inexpensive - US$20 a day.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. They are organized at the schools.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expat community is relatively small. There might be as many as 1,000 expats here. The morale is pretty good and people are keen to interact.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
People invite each other to their homes or get together for dinner/dancing at a restaurant. Pool parties in the summer.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
As any Central Asia city: Great for families and single men. A bit more boring for single women and couples.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I would think not. The former Soviet Union doesn't have a history of being very liberal in this respect.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Women are considered to be second class citizens - nothing new about that anywhere, it's just a matter of degree. You work around it. Islamic institutions are closely scrutinized. There are Jewish organizations and the Russian Orthodox church is well-established with their own patriarch. Afro-Americans receive long stares and many questions, to the point where it's uncomfortable.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Touring historical cities, travelling to Moynaq and Nukus.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are some interesting sights in town and some good restaurants. People like to travel into the mountains about an hour outside of the city. There is a zoo and a petting zoo for kids. Most expats travel to Samarkand, Bukhara, Fergana Valley, Khiva and Nukus. Weekends in Istanbul, Dubai and New Delhi are possible as direct flights are available.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Chess sets, silk clothing items, ceramics, jewelry, wooden jewelry boxes, silk purses, carpets, paintings, Uzbek musical instruments.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Very interesting historical cities and, of course, the Savitsky Museum in Nukus. The culture is unique. Saving money is easy. Tends to be sunny most of the time.
10. Can you save money?
YES!
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Just how big Tashkent is. It sprawls like Los Angeles.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Need for privacy. Everybody watches everybody here. It's like a Las Vegas casino.
4. But don't forget your:
Adapt to a new reality.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Got to You Tube and bring up Tashkent. Lots of videos.
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Economist updates on Uzbekistan.
7. Do you have any other comments?
If you are coming as a short-term tourist, be sure to bring cash and a Visa card. Also be aware of the registration requirements as you travel from city to city. It would be wise to join a tour group the first time here.
