Mbabane, Swaziland Report of what it's like to live there - 02/07/11
Personal Experiences from Mbabane, Swaziland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
DC, it takes about 2 days to get home and 3 to return. There are direct flights to ATL from Johannesburg (16 hours) or to IAD, but these are very expensive. Stopovers in London are long.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 1/2 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The embassy housing pool is quite nice. All are single-family homes and each has its own special advantage. Our house has an amazing view and a pool, but the yard is steeply sloped, so our son can't run around in the yard. Other families have great yards for their kids to play in, but no pool and/or no view. Some have great outdoor entertaining spaces.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get just about anything, but you should buy it when you see it unless it is something like milk or meat, which are always available. Fresh fruit and veggies are not as cheap as I expected, but meats are much cheaper than in the States. If you are vegetarian, be prepared to use internet groceries or pay a lot to get what you need. A cake of tofu (when I can find it) costs about $4. If you are into gardening, you can get the vegetables you want very cheaply by growing them yourself.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Vanilla extract and anything liquid you might not get here (which isn't much) or might just like having. Everything else can be ordered.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is KFC, but the local Nando's is much better, in my opinion. There are some cafes in town, serving local fare, chinese, and indian. At these places you can spend as little as $5 for a nice meal. One nice french restaurant. A short drive down to the valley opens up your options to nicer restaurants. With steak, seafood, wine, a dinner for two is $40-$50 at what we consider the best restaurant around.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
There is a natural food store in the plaza, and there are many Chinese food stores with rice noodles and other asian groceries. Meat-flavored soy products are readily available. Tofu can be found, but I usually make my own when I want it, because soybeans are available.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Depends on where you live. Our house has a lot of insects at night, but other people can leave their doors open all night without insects flying in. Ants are a problem for everyone, no matter how clean you keep your house.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It is easy to find help. I pay my nanny/maid about $250/month for 5 days and my gardner $200/month for 4 days. I think that is average for the embassy community.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small gym at the embassy. Equipment was recently upgraded and a running trail was built on the compound. I have seen "Curves" advertised.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We generally use cash, but you can use credit cards. Just have more than one handy because you never know when yours will be declined.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, I think just about every denomination is here.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, newspapers are less than a dollar, TV is pretty expensive even for the basic package. I think ours is around $100.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, but as always, people like it when you can greet and thank them in Siswati. Also, Siswati is commonly interspersed with English in the newspapers, but you can usually understand the storyline regardless.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Lots, sidewalks exist only in the city center, and even then they are poor. Going to the shopping centers would be ok.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I think there is one approved taxi company, but otherwise, no one uses public transport.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Something with high clearance is better because the roads can be really awful, especially in the rainy season.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, you pay by how fast you want it and how much you think you'll use. Ours is two steps down from the fastest, but still considered business level, and costs almost $100.Some days it just doesn't work and some days you would think you were back in the States it is seamless. You never know what you'll get when you wake up.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everyone has one and they seem to be pretty inexpensive.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. But travel is through South Africa, so you must make sure everything is in order or you may have your pet quarantined there.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I think so, but we haven't had a need for either yet. Our nanny takes care of our cats when we are gone.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are a few EFM jobs at the embassy, and some spouses have found work on the local economy, but you have to do a bit of legwork to get it.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual. Swazis dress as well as they can, so even the poor are pretty well dressed. The younger generation follows the current fashion trends.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is considered a high crime post, but I never feel unsafe. I do not walk around at night by myself, but I didn't do that much in the US either. You do have to be alert, though. You hear about breakins and petty thefts quite often.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
We have a good GP that we see, and I think the other doctors at the private clinic are probably good. You will be medevac'd to South Africa for anything serious, where the medical care is top notch. We had our baby in Pretoria and were extremely happy with the care we received.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It rains a lot in the summer, so it stays fairly cool. Temperatures in the winter are cooler, but not so much that you can't sit outside and enjoy the beautiful country you are in.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are very good local and international schools here, but I don't have any experience with them.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Definitely available and something to fit your needs/desires. Nannies are also widely used.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small.
2. Morale among expats:
Pretty good. I think there is good information out there about this post, so people who come here actually want to be here.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Mostly at home, but there are fundraising events all year long, and a few bars/restaurants at which people hang out. The CLO organizes events for both adults and children. A movie theatre just opened.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles have a harder time here because there is no real nightlife and no dating scene. Families and couples tend to like it if they are into doing things outdoors.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Swazis are very religious and most likely would tell you that they are against homosexuality. Most of the couples I know are discrete, i.e., no PDA, and have not been treated poorly.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is some tension between black and white Africans, but nothing near to what you will experience in South Africa. This is a patriarchal society, so men are considered to be superior to women.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Game parks, hiking, wine tasting, having our first child
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Game parks, from small local ones to Kruger just a couple of hours away. Lots of hiking. Seeing bushmen paintings, bird watching. Beach is 3-6 hours away. Explore Southern Africa by car!
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Candles, linens, baskets, batiks
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
This is such an easy place to live, but you are in Africa, and it is absolutely beautiful here.
11. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
3. But don't forget your:
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
If you are afraid of trying out Africa, come here. You will love it.
