Durban, South Africa Report of what it's like to live there - 09/06/10
Personal Experiences from Durban, South Africa
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, Indonesia, Pakistan, Thailand, Canada.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is Washington, travel time at least 20 hours, more if you transit Europe. Most connections will take you through Johannesburg but you can transit through Cape Town as well.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Affiliated with the U.S. Consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The majority of housing for USG staff is luxury apartments or nice townhomes in gated communities, most within 20-40 minutes drive to the office. Many are within walking distance to the beach. Not many of the homes have much storage but they are comfortable and attractive.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Cost depends on where you shop but nearly everything you need is available locally. Not too many U.S. brands are available here but there are many nice South African products.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Laundry and dish detergent and other U.S. cleaning products, trash bags and paper products are of low quality here. Many imported cosmetic brands are available but they are often 30-50% more expensive than U.S. so if you like particular products bring them along. Clothing and shoes are quite expensive and generally not very good quality.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
KFC and McD's are available at prices similar to the U.S. but Nando's is the best fast food. Most famous in Durban is the "bunny chow"--curry served in a hollowed out loaf of bread. There is a wide variety of nice restaurants in town at all prices but even the nicest tend to be much less expensive than the U.S. Good wine is a great bargain here.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not many. The occasional group of ants or cockroaches-nothing too horrible. There is some malaria in the northern end of the province but precautions can be taken when you intend to visit there.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Mostly by pouch from the U.S. The South African Postal service is not bad but can be expensive for shipping parcels.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Plentiful. Average cost per day about US$20, maybe $200 to $300/month for full time live in. Employer is usually responsible for meals and uniforms.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, a wide variety including Virgin Active, Curves, private trainers, yoga and dance.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are many ATMs and Visa and MC credit cards are widely accepted.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
All kinds and most faiths. Largest mosque in Southern Africa is here.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Most newspapers are in English. Cable TV is available and is fairly costly-DSTV is about US$70 per month, includes a lot of sports, BBC, home decorating and wildlife programs. A new company has just started with service at half the cost but the quality of programs is perhaps not as desirable yet.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is widely used, greetings and pleasantries in other local languages very useful and much appreciated. Learning some Zulu in this province would be very helpful.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There have been some efforts to incorporate accessibility features in newer buildings and developments but its inconsistent. If you were determined and creative it might be possible to live well here but it wouldn't be easy.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Not much safety regulation in public transit here so local minibuses and trains not recommended. Regular taxis are okay but not cheap.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Toyota and VW are the most popular here, and most stolen. Import requirements are very restrictive so its usually easier to buy in country. Cars are very expensive here compared to the U.S. but also retain their value well. A regular sedan is fine for most folks-you can easily rent a 4x4 if you want to go off road.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but the Telkom monolpoly is still holding prices up and service down. Although the new Seacom cable has arrived (just a few hours north of Durban) there has not been any noticeable improvements in speed or bandwidth. Nearly impossible to stream video and ridiculously low caps on up and downloads can leave you cut off from service half way through the month. Required landline phone and ADSL service is about $100/month. You can also purchase 3G modems through cell phone providers. This is a pay a you go set up that is about as costly as ADSL but perhaps more cost effective if you are light internet user.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Phones are easy to buy locally, there is good and relatively cheap pre-paid service-you can buy vouchers at any store or gas station.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There is a very complicated and expensive procedure for getting pets into South Africa. The can arrive only as cargo, not as accompanied baggage or in the passenger compartment. You need to be well-informed and prepared a few months in advance to avoid possible disaster. Use a good South African pet-shipper to advise you and help handle the details.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Excellent, well-trained vets at very reasonable cost. Kennels also available.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Decent but not well-paying to US standards. Implications for diplomatic spouses make it not very desirable to seek local employment.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual usually sufficient at work, otherwise Durban is a very informal place-you'll find people at events wearing everything from high fashion sparkle to t-shirts.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is a critical threat post for crime and the threat is real. However, the security at USG residences and facilities is good and if you use common sense and behave as you would in any other urban environment you can fully enjoy all that this city has to offer.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Excellent medical and dental care is available at costs much lower than the U.S. This is the epicenter of the AIDS pandemic so precautions should be taken. Make sure your regular vaccinations are up to date too. The tap water is safe to drink in most places!
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is generally pretty good. Plants are blooming year round so those with allergies may suffer. Mold and mildew resulting from seaside living can sometimes be a concern.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's generally quite tropical, most of the year its very pleasant with only a few especially hot or cold days. It rains in spring (sept-oct) and fall (jan -feb)
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
No international schools in Durban and no schools with U.S.curriculum but there is a wide selection of private day and boarding schools of good quality to choose from.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Some accommodations may be possible depending on the needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Many options for preschool and daycare including Montessori.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. Plenty. They even have baseball.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small compared to Jo-burg and Cape Town but they also aren't as obvious.
2. Morale among expats:
In general, morale is good. It's a nice place to live.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Barbeques(Braai)are popular at home. There's social and business groups for just about everything here if you get out and look. Lots of volunteer opportunities. It can take a little while to break into local circles but once you do people are very welcoming and inclusive.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It can be good for all but you will need to look to the local community for more significant social activities. Although there are quite a number of expats here in Durban they do not typically socialize as group.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There is a small but active gay community here.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, all of these. Vast economic disparities also cause problems.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting nearby World Heritage sites St Lucia and Drakensberg Mountain Range. Safari in Hluhluwe Imfolozi park, Tembe Elephant Park and many others.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Go on safari, walk and swim on the beachfront, kite surf. Shop at Gateway, the largest mall in Southern Hemisphere. While you're there check out the facilities for rock climbing, the wave pool for surfing and a skateboard park. Shop in the traditional markets. Visit uShaka Marine World for the aquarium and water park. Visit Moses Mabhida Stadium for bungee jumping and sky car. Go out with Sharks Board Patrol boat then see a shark autopsy. Take a sea cruise to nowhere. Attend local theater, music and dance productions, enjoy Zulu and Indian Culture events.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Zulu beadwork, basketry and ceramics. Telephone wire baskets, Nguni cow hides. Artwork by emerging South African artists.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Beautiful country with unique cultures, easy to travel within South Africa or Southern African region. Durban weather is nice almost year round, very pleasant outdoor lifestyle.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, but it would take some work.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
"Animal Planet" or "Rainbow Nation" expectations about South Africa. Your assumptions will be challenged every day and you will be both disappointed and then absolutely delighted with what you find.
3. But don't forget your:
BBQ, beach chairs, surfboard, scuba diving gear, camping gear, golf clubs, soccer jersey and vuvuzela.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Sizwe's Test by Jonny Steinberg; "Spud" Series by John Van der Ruit for young adult readers;Books by Zakes M'da; Cartoons by Zapiro
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Izulu Lami (My Secret Sky); District 9; Tsotsi; Yesterday; Shaka Zulu TV series; The Color of Freedom
