Jeddah, Saudi Arabia Report of what it's like to live there - 11/12/10
Personal Experiences from Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
14 hours form WDC through Frankfurt
3. How long have you lived here?
Feb 2010 - Feb 2011
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Consulate, Jeddah
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Some are large and comfortable, some v. small apts, it's the luck of the draw - shortage of housing as of the time this report was written.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Slightly cheaper than in the States.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
My girlfriend
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
All US fast food is available for comparable prices.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
mosquitoes, ants
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO, it's fine.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
500 riyal for a maid to come by once a week.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Marines have a decent gym, housing compound gyms are like apt gyms, no real free-weights, some dumbbells. There are gold's gyms etc in town.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It's easier to take large sums from the ATM and then use cash for all expenses.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
No. It's Islam all day here.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Available at the CG, I never really look in town for US papers, but I'm sure you can find them.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I speak Arabic and use it far less than I would like to. Most Saudis speak English and other expats (Bangledeshis, Pakistanis, Filipinos) don't speak Arabic.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Probably not terrible. Everything is convenient here. Huge malls, huge cars, etc. It's not like you're negotiating narrow, ancient streets.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are available but drivers are weird with women, as I understand it. Most people at the CG use motorpool if they don't have a car. I've taken a few cabs and it was fine.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
4-wheel-drive is nice if you want to be adventurous but it's not needed. A large vehicle is good for safety, people drive badly to quite badly here. You can bring a nice car if you want - the roads for the most part are decent and parking is usually v. easy. Everything is made to be convenient. No crime to speak of; I've never heard of anyone getting robbed or broken into, etc.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is ridiculously bad.3G internet works depending on where you're sitting and compound service is v. bad and they have a monopoly so they have no reason to improve it. It's expensive and barely works. The GSO should put the hammer down on the compounds to improve it; but we all know that won't happen.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You'll get a cell issued by the CG.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There's a vet here. Some people have dogs on the compound, but there's no strolling around town with the dog. One, it's too hot and two, Arabs are not traditionally dog people. I don't think dogs would be well received in town. Again.. sadly.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Probably. There are many Americans working with Saudi firms or partnering with Saudi firms. Lots of capital in the Kingdom, just hard to free it up as I understand it.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business attire at work - no one has ever said anything to me for wearing shorts in town, but I typically don't just to avoid scrutiny.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Terrorism; the greatest danger is probably a traffic accident.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
I wouldn't have anything major done in Saudi. No child birth, surgery, root canal, etc. I would try to get to the states for anything that counts.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Not unbearable.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's hot and humid
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American School; British School; French School and others. American School organizes events with the CG from time to time - softball games etc.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
At the American school I think there are.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
This is my first expat experience, but I think it's large - there may be more foreigners here than Saudis. If not, it's close.
2. Morale among expats:
People make the best of things - it's Saudi and people generally know what they're getting into before they come here. That being said ... low?
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Consulate and Marine parties are the hottest ticket in town. Sadly.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good is a strong word. Saudi is one of the most restrictive countries on earth - I wouldn't use the word "good" for any family situation here, single or otherwise.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I doubt it.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Probably more than any other country on earth.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Money, visiting the al-Wab'ah crater, camping in the desert.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The beach, diving, four-wheeling, desert trips.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
I don't think there's much unique in Saudi anymore. You can get carpets etc, shish pipes.. but it's not like you're getting them handmade in tehran, i'm just not certain this is a destination for that type of thing.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Witnessing social change in the Kingdom is history in real time.
11. Can you save money?
Yup.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Eh - it was a one year tour and it went quickly. Saudi is oppressive. Oppressive heat, oppressive laws, etc. I'm glad I did it, I made some money, and certainly learned a lot. I don't have any plans of coming back.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Anything other than summer clothes. Your bike.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunglasses, sunscreen, light suits, swimsuit, positive mental attitude.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Succession in the Kingdom
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Lawrence of Arabia
6. Do you have any other comments?
There's a golf course at KAUST, about 45 mins north of town but it's hard to get on. You need a member to sponsor you, it's far away, expensive, and it's v. hot here so you have to get up v. early to get up there and play. Saudi is an important country and an interesting place to serve. If you're interested in coming here for the right reasons, you'll be fine. If you're just trying to secure a comfortable follow on and check a box, you'll prob. complain for two years.