Dhahran, Saudi Arabia Report of what it's like to live there - 01/22/14
Personal Experiences from Dhahran, Saudi Arabia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Not my first expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
From Washington D.C. there is a flight to Amsterdam, then Kuwait for refueling, then to Manama, Bahrain. It is recommended flying into Bahrain because the airport is easier to navigate then Dammam Airport in Saudi Arabia.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Consulate compound housing is older government quarters with no commute time; off-compound housing is comprised of pretty nice villas and commute time is around 30 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Most American products are available here and several British products; all available at a higher cost than locally produced items; popular grocery stores include Tamimi (Safeway company); LuLu, Danube.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Light weight dresses/shorts for women (to wear under the abaya and at work in the summer); more sandals; light weight suits for men, your favorite toiletries; craft/hobby items; Netflix subscription; good laptop and high quality router; English language books; camping gear.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
All American fast food restaurants are available here and most American restaurant chains (KFC, Pizza Hut, McDonald's, Applebees, Red Lobster, etc). Prices are comparable to the U.S.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
A lot of flies in the warm weather.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The Consulate has diplomatic mail pouch and military APO; expats can use the local mail system but it is slow.
2. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Most compounds have gyms; women and men cannot attend gyms together locally but I've heard there are "women's gyms" in Dhahran. The Aramco compound has gyms if you have access to the Aramco compound.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are available in town and I haven't heard of anyone having problems; credit cards are commonly used at large hotels and higher-end restaurants.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
None.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
If you live on the economy, speaking Arabic is important; otherwise, you can get by without it as a lot of locals speak some English.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There is not local transportation that diplomats can use. Expats do use taxis or hire local drivers; prices vary but are not more expensive than the U.S.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Women cannot drive here; recommended vehicles are SUVs and crash-resistent vehicles!
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Women have to wear abayas in public; on Aramco and in the Consulate, women should dress fairly modest but Western business attire is acceptable; men can wear anything they want (except shorts in public).
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Of course ... it's Saudi Arabia. Terrorism is always a concern although in the recent past, things have been pretty quiet on that front; needless to say, diplomats drive around in heavy (often armored) SUVs, vary the routes, times, etc.
2. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
In the summer, the air quality is moderate due to the heat and humidity - there is not fresh air; in winter, the air is cool and pleasant; dust is always present.
3. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot humid summers, cool winters (light sweater or jacket); it almost never rains but when it does, there is flooding.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The ISG is located next to the Consulate and the education seems to be pretty good, although there are a lot of "home school" days where parents are required to stay home with the kids and do their school work with them - not convenient for working parents.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Care for small children is usually provided by nannies; young children (preschool age) do have the option to go to school at the international school for a few hours each day.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, if you have access to the Aramco compound; otherwise no.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
People tend to adapt differently; some are miserable; some Aramcons love it here and stay for 10-20 years; diplomats' morale comes and goes; the diplomatic community is extremely small.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Make homemade beer; sleep; workout; go out to eat, have dinner parties; watch movies; travel out of the country; have a lot of spa time; go shopping.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
The Consulate has turned into a family post; all events are family friendly which is great for families but the needs of singles are ignored. Aramco seems to be a bit on the wild side but it's not always easy to attend events there if you work full-time or don't have access, or aren't still in party mode. Again, not the best posting for singles.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No, it is against Saudi law so gay or lesbian expats should be seriously private about their business or not accept an assignment to Dhahran.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes! The only authorized religion is Islam so other denominations have to practice in private. Saudis can be extremely prejudiced against people with brown skin, especially if they are of Asian backgrounds. (Saudi) Women are viewed and treated as property; Western women are often viewed as immoral whores by Saudis though Western women are "tolerated" in business meetings.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traveling to countries in this region that I have not visited as a tourist in the past; leaving Saudi Arabia on a regular basis is a necessary evil (costs money of course) due to the severe restrictions on personal freedoms (clothing, driving, religion).
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Day/weekend trips to Bahrain are popular because women aren't required to wear abayas, alcohol is permitted in hotels and women can drive/use taxis. Diplomats have security restrictions on in-country travel but it is possible to visit other cities. In Dhahran, popular pastimes include shopping and eating in restaurants (family areas for women). Travel in the regional area is not too difficult. Life in Dhahran takes place in private compounds and is easier depending upon "who you know."
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not much honestly, most unique local items are imported, but still nice and still available.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saudi Arabia doesn't officially allow tourism so not many Americans have the opportunity to live here. Saudis are very hospitable on a one-on-one basis although dealings with government officials can be difficult. You can save money here due to the extra allowances you receive being assigned here and there are interesting places to travel to in the region.
10. Can you save money?
Yes if you don't travel too much.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That the Consulate is a "family post"; that expat women out-number men 3 to 1; that there is no spontaneity in your day to day life; that it is difficult to maintain any privacy.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but only once.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations that this is a great place for singles to be assigned; winter coats; car if you are a woman; religious items; any expectation of privacy if you are a diplomat.
4. But don't forget your:
Swimsuit, sandals; sports gear; hobby items.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Have a plan before being assigned to Aramco or the Consulate - use this job/assignment to travel regionally; get in shape by becoming a workout fiend; go to school online, become proficient in a hobby, etc. If you don't have an advance plan, the adjustment will be rough.
