St. Petersburg, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 08/07/11
Personal Experiences from St. Petersburg, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Bucharest, Paris, Kabul, Port of Spain.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Texas is my home base. I travel Texas-Washington DC-Frankfurt-St. Petersburg
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Consulate employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Diplomats live in apartments within walking distance to work. The apartments I've seen are nice.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I'm not familiar with traditional "kid's food" but since Stockmanns opened, you can find almost anything here. There are small mom and pop stores (Producti's) and larger grocery stores such as Auchan and Okei. It's helpful to have a car to go to the larger grocery stores, but Stockmanns is only a metro stop or two away! The only products I buy online are Tex-mex products. Diplomats can also order some items through Peter Justesen and the Helsinki commissary.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
You can buy almost anything here or online but if you want to plan ahead, ship winter clothes, sofa covers since you never know if you will have a lovely green, blue or beige sofa, kitchen appliances (crockpot, etc), typical American spices not found locally and baking supplies, ethnic items. Again, you can buy almost anything online that doesn't violate diplomatic pouch rules.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are many restaurants here from fast food to restaurants with world class chefs. Fast food restaurants include (but not limited to) Papa Johns, Pizza Hut, Carl's Junior, McDonald's, KFC, Subway and Cinnabon. There are decent priced ethnic restaurants and many fine dining restaurants. You can spend US$6-7 at a fast food restaurant or US$100 at the Astoria!
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
It is possible to buy organic produce and meat-substitute products - the selection is probably limited though.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There is a mild mosquito season and some people complain of mosquitoes coming in their apartments but I leave my windows closed until the weather really turns cold and don't have a problem. You can purchase mosquito repellent plug-ins and a few people who are extremely sensitive or concerned about the effect on their children sleep under a mosquito net. If your bedroom has A/C, closing the window is easy.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomats use DPO or the pouch, so normal restrictions apply.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I don't use domestic help but many do; it is definitely available, probably for the same prices you'd pay in Washington.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms available - a few nicer ones some expats use, but many diplomats have treadmills or other home-gym equipment.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I have not used an ATM card in town - I cash a check at work, but people do use ATM cards. You have to be careful which machines you use. It is ok to use credit cards at larger department stores, restaurants and grocery stores, but I wouldn't advise using them to the same extent they are used in the US.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I know there are Catholic services available, but am not familiar with the other denominations.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
St. Petersburg Times is available in English. I read the American news online. I don't believe other English-language papers are available locally.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Your quality of life will be much better if you have a basic Russian course (i.e. Russian 'Fast'). Without this, you can't read anything! Some people come to post without Russian and Russian classes are available at work but life is much better if you can read Cyrillic.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This city is not designed for people with physical difficulties, would be difficult for someone with walking difficulties, and impossible for wheelchair use.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Metros are safe and taxis from the center of town and other popular expat/tourist areas are also safe. Taxis are not metered so you need to agree upon a price before getting in the vehicle. Gypsi taxis are not a good idea for a single female unless you speak good Russian, and not a good idea to use alone at night. If you use the same common sense you would use in a large American city, you should be OK.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I don't have a car. Several singles walk, take taxis and use the metro. If you do bring a car, you will want to bring something that is good on the snow and ice. I don't believe diplomats have many restrictions importing vehicles.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High-speed internet is available. Internet service varies with the building you live in. Often, you don't have a choice regarding the internet provider. Some people have excellent service with no interruptions, mine is sometimes spotty. Sometimes there is interference when trying to download too much information such as online television, etc. After a while, your system just freezes. There usually isn't any troubles when just surfing the net.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Diplomats are provided cell phones through work, but I've heard it is relatively easy to find local cell phones / cell phone plans. You can pay the bills at machines around the city.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work, you dress the same way you would dress if working in Washington. Local females dress extremely provocatively. When attending official or cultural events - dress appropriately (no jeans).
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pick-pockets are the main concern. There are highly trained groups of pickpockets who seemingly go 'unnoticed' by the local police. Many people are pick-pocketed once during their tour and never realized it was happening at the time.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There are high TB-HIV rates here. The water isn't safe or good to drink, but we have filters at home and bottled water at work and in restaurants. You don't have to wash produce with bleach water, but do need to wash it as you would in the US. Be careful when buying meat/fish - go to larger grocery stores and always check expiration dates - even though they are sometimes altered. There are three medical clinics where Americans/expats can go, although if I had any major issues I would not want to go to a local hospital - I would insist on going to Helsinki for treatment! Russian doctors are highly skilled, but nursing care is scary and most care usually involves bribes if you want good care, or someone from the diplomatic community to constantly monitor the quality of care you get.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality in St. Petersburg is below average, but if you don't have allergies, you don't realize it until you travel to the countryside or other small towns.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are long, dark, cold winters here. The first light snow last year was around Halloween and the snow didn't melt until the end of April. There are a few weeks of hot, humid weather starting mid-July. In August, there are warm days mixed with mild days and by 1 September, the weather is pleasantly cool. October has heavy rain, lasting until the snow starts. When the weather changes, it changes fast, which can lead to sinus-pressure headaches, but there are remedies for that too.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I don't have experience with the International Schools, but I understand the teachers are top notch!
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I don't know, but the AAS (school) staff are helpful and friendly so please contact them.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small.
2. Morale among expats:
Pretty good. Some people love it of course and others hate it. If you stay inside all winter, your morale will take a hit since the winters are long and dark. People from traditionally cold environments in the US don't have as much of a problem.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are many cultural opportunities here. Diplomats often socialize together. If you want to go clubbing, you can find plenty of opportunities. Locals drink heavily too. Diplomats do a lot of home entertaining here due to the long, cold winters. If you don't speak Russian, it can be difficult to socialize with the locals. It is difficult to establish friendships with Russians if you don't speak the language.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think this is a good post for families and singles/couples. When I initially arrived to post, there were more families than singles, but with the recent personnel change, there are many singles here. Since the American diplomatic community is small, most families and singles often socialize together.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I've heard the city is slowly becoming more accepting in this area, but generally, gays and lesbians can't be as open as they are in the U.S. Gay and lesbian expats have worked here with minimal difficulties.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
People with darker skin color have experienced prejudices by Russian extremists and police.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The highlights of my tour so far have been the cultural opportunities and rich history Russia has to offer. Through my work, I've been fortunate to attend many cultural events.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are so many cultural opportunities here - museums, ballet and opera, musical performances, world class restaurants and great ethnic cuisine. If you are a military or history buff, there are many places to visit too. The movie theaters don't show movies in English (they are dubbed over) so Netflix is heavily used. There is an active International Women's Club which is popular with many spouses. There are great ice hockey and soccer games to attend too. The difficult part is forcing yourself outside during the cold winters.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are no 'cheap' shopping deals here, but there are unique and nice items to buy - Russian china, samovars, icons, matrushka dolls, amber jewelry, fur hats, Faberge eggs.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Russia is a fascinating country with a fascinating history. St. Petersburg is a good assignment, but does have difficulties too. The cultural opportunities are fabulous and it is possible to save money, depending upon your lifestyle.
11. Can you save money?
Yes if you are single or married and don't go out to eat a lot. This is not a cheap post, but it depends upon your lifestyle; if you bring your lunch to work and eat out once a week for dinner, you can save money. If you are single and travel to other parts of Europe every holiday, probably not too much money will be saved.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. Due to the security concerns and bureaucracy, I personally would not stay longer than a two year tour, but many people extend for a third year here. It is a good assignment and I would recommend it.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
camping gear, lawn chairs and most summer gear, excess amounts of anything since many apartments don't have a lot of storage space.
3. But don't forget your:
Yaktrax 
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
I don't have specific titles but books on Russian folk belief, traditional fairy tales, and classic stories from Tolstoy
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Anything that would give you a glimpse of Russian daily life or culture.
6. Do you have any other comments?
St. Petersburg is not a typical 'cushy' assignment such like Paris, London, or Rome, but the size of the Consulate make it friendlier than larger posts. Winters are long, dark, and cold, but it is truly a fascinating assignment.
