Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea Report of what it's like to live there - 06/10/08
Personal Experiences from Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Multiple postings in South America and Africa.
2. How long have you lived here?
One year.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am an Australian government contractor.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
From the U.S.: LA or San Francisco to Brisbane or Sydney, Australia (13 hours), to Port Moresby (3 hours). From Europe/Africa/Asia: via Australia, Manila or Singapore. The only international airlines to PNG are Air Nuigini/Quantas, and PNG Airlines.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most expats live in apartments or townhouses. The quality is acceptable, but lower than other developing countries. The extreme housing shortage drives rents through the roof ($1,000 to $1,500 a week for a 2-3 bedroom unit). Many expats including diplomats live in 'Town' which is the hill just behind the port. Mostly apartments and townhouses in 1-4 story buildings with sea views and a pool, a few with tennis courts or internet. There are some single detached homes, often with a pool but no yard. The Australian High Commission has a own compound near Town (apartments/townhouses). It is rare to have green space in your compound in Town.
Other expats live in Islander Village opposite the Holiday Inn, which is about 150 houses in a suburb-like compound. Houses are 2-family units with yard. A pool is rare. Many unaccompanied expats live long-term in the Holiday Inn (Waigani), Airways Hotel (airport), or the Crown Plaza (Town). Government offices are mainly in the Waigani area near the Holiday Inn. Business offices are in Town or Waigani. Some expats, particulary longterm ones, Asians, or those whose companies do not have security requirements, live in other areas (Gordons or Boroko). Some buy/bring a boat and live at the Yacht Club, which has power, gym, showers, etc., and then sell the boat when they leave, to avoid losing money on such high rent. Everything can be reached in 5-15 minutes, with little traffic. Ask your company to put you on waiting lists before you arrive; expect to be in a hotel 1-2 months. This is a landlord's market.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are 2 main supermarkets catering to expats (Boroko Foodworld, and Anderson's). Decent meat at Boroko (there is a cattle farm in Walindi, West New Britain). Most Australian food is available, but more expensive and without as much variety. Most fresh fruits and veggies are imported, as is cheese, yogurt and fresh milk. You can get lots of spices, tofu, whole wheat bread and flour, dry beans, grains, and some healthy crackers and bars are available. Lots of junk food available (and many kids at school bring it for lunch).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
A trampoline or kids play equipment and a good exercise machine (lack of yard space, lack of exercise here), cooler, more blue ice packs, sports equipment (diving, snorkeling, scooters, bikes, life-jackets/PFDs, harnesses for Hobie sailing, a boat if I had the space; pool toys/inflatable raft; black sports shoes in the next size up for kids uniform; more Crocs; more bathing suits and rash guards for everyone in the family, long and short sleeves, for sun and sea lice that sting; reef shoes; tennis racquets and shoes; clothes and shoes; mesh sports bags for diving/snorkeling stuff and small mesh sports bags for kids swim gear; 220v bread, yogurt and ice cream makers; pasta maker; big 220v freezer or extra fridge to keep bugs from multiplying in the flour, cereal, rice, etc.; extra sheets. Lots of arts & crafts supplies for kids. Gifts for kids birthday parties. Invitations, thank you cards and party favors. (If you are short on space, there is a neat store here, though, Gifts Galore).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Limited options, but reasonably priced. Italian (Japello's); grill and theme nights at Yacht Club; Airways hotel (international menu with great coffee shop); Japanese (Ichizen in Town, and steakhouse above Anderson's Foodland); Ela Beach Hotel; and Lamana Hotel (some Indian options) are best. Also there is Chinese (Fui Gui and a couple others) and Holiday Inn. For cafes, only 3 options: Airways (best), Brian Bell (clean, not bad), and Boroko Foodworld. Airways has really good cakes and breads. For fast food there is Big Rooster. Pizza at Japello's and Ela Beach Hotel is very good.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Your employer's local PO Box, or arrange to have your financial papers/bank statements, etc., sent to you via TNT or DHL once a month to your work's street address in Port Moresby. They can also clear any unaccompanied luggage you send, or things you order from Australia by internet.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Readily available and around $200 a month, expat rates, Monday to Friday 7:30 to 4pm. If you have had help in other countries, you may find PNG helpers are less capable cleaners, cannot cook, and are reluctant to start early or stay late because of security issues in transport. Very few live in (and few houses have space for live-ins). PNGers are very warm with kids.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Major credit cards are accepted in many but not all places; local bank ATM cards are very convenient and give cash back. International ATM cards work fine, but it is good to have some funds in the local bank in case the international system is down.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, the major Christian denominations are represented.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, local and Australian papers. Satellite TV.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is widely spoken, although your house help may have limited English.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This city has no particular accommodation for physical disabilities, and you might be a target for crime if not accompanied. Security escorts can be arranged. Tall buildings are few and tend to have elevators, there is ground floor housing available, although traditional housing outside Port Moresby is on stilts. You could not get around in a wheelchair in most areas, but you can't walk around either, because of security.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Left.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The Red Dot cabs from the airport that you hire inside the airport are safe and cheap (US$10). Some expat aid-workers and volunteers take local buses and they are cheap, but not considered safe if you have anything of value on you or are a female traveling alone.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Sedans are most common. Road conditions are good. You do not need 4WD unless you plan to buy and tow a motor boat, or live outside of Port Moresby. You can only go a short distance in two directions from Port Moresby, towards Crystal Rapids (past the airport about an hour) or a half hour north up the coast to the beach. Japanese cars are common. Smash resistant window film (3M) can be sourced in country, but bullet proof windows would need to be imported.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Not exactly, unless you work at the World Bank or a place that has its own satellite (satellite licenses are prohibitively expensive and limited by government). Many companies use dial up service or ADSL which is still not fast. If you work at home or do a lot of up/downloading, you can get 512kb speed wireless at a very high cost (ie $500 to $1000 a month) from Daltron or Datec. Islander Village and places in town have lines of sight. You can access internet at the Yacht club or the major hotels by buying 100K cards to connect. You pay for the amount of data you up/download, not the time per se. There are two expensive internet cafes in town, not high speed.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get both Digicel and B-Mobile, so if one network is down, you have the other. Digicel is cheaper, but not everyone has it. You can get dual sim card phones for under $300 in PNG, but beware of fakes that don't work; try them out or get one in Australia.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Skype if you have good internet, or local Digicel mobile phone cards. You cannot call the US collect from PNG.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
RSPCA has expat vet who is good. There is no rabies here, so bringing a pet from anywhere outside Australia, NZ, Hawaii, or certain nearby islands is complicated; call the National Quarantine Service in Port Moresby for details.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. But if you have certain skills, there are international contracts to be had. A dependent can get a job, exit and re-enter with a new visa, but the search and visa process can take 6 to 9 months. Visa terms are adhered to.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At the office, business casual (shorts or jeans are not worn to work by professionals in government or other offices). PNG women usually wear short sleeves to work but expat women can wear sleeveless tops; the tops are not an issue as much as covering legs to at least the knee. Straight or full skirts to knee or mid-calf are worn for work, as are pants. Shirt or shirt and tie (no coat), or women's equivalent, if you are giving a presentation or being interviewed. Ambassadors or visiting heads of state will wear coat and tie, and accompanying staff follows suit on those occasions. For non-work situations, casual clothes, bermuda or board shorts, dresses, sandals, crocs.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate. Some trash is burned at times.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Security concerns are high in Port Moresby, with carjackings, muggings, and break-ins of expats and locals. The security community has noted that in the past year, crime is more planned and not just opportunistic. That said, you don't see AK-47s and if you've lived in other cities with high crime rates, or post-conflict countries, it's relatively not bad in Moresby. The problem is more the low security infrastructure and lack of well trained personnel. There is a local building code against solid brick/stone walls around compounds. Security guards are often poorly paid and poorly trained, except for UN ones.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
A lot of expats in Port Moresby have gotten malaria this year. Testing and treatment is readily available. Evacuation insurance is required, to get you to Cairns or Brisbane, Australia for anything moderately serious or specialized. If it's not an emergency, you go on a regularly scheduled commercial flight. Get DAN diving insurance if you dive. There is a decompression chamber in Port Moresby, but you need to be evacuated on a special aircraft from the coast or islands to the city. You can get medications from Australia in PNG at reputable pharmacies (supermarkets are OK), but they are expensive and may not be in stock so bring a year's supply of prescription medications you take. Bring an extra pair of prescription glasses and prescription sunglasses with Croakies so you don't lose them boating; they can't be made in PNG and have to be sent out to Australia. There is one recommended expat dentist here.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Warm and dry; warm and humid.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The expat community is served by Port Moresby International High School (few expats); St. Joseph's (mainly PNG and Asian students); and Ela Murray International School (more expats than not). Ela Murray has 2 sites: Ela Beach site in Town for the preschool, and the Murray site in Boroko for other grades.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Ela Murray elementary school seems to accomodate special needs children well if the need is an academic difficulty (you can, for example, hire a private teacher to assist in your child's classroom) or physical challenge. It is not particularly equipped to challenge gifted children, so you may want to bring extra materials, but in PNG your children will be learning many new things aside from academics, and will not be bored!
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Parents we know are happy with the Ela Beach preschool program, which starts at age 2. Haus Meris are readily available for in-home care.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Community is medium sized (everyone knows everyone's business, but you have some social options). It's largely Australians and Asians.
2. Morale among expats:
Good. Those who are active in water sports (boating, diving, snorkeling) and take trips or live outside of Port Moresby like PNG. Many also go to Australia for R&R.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Moderate social life, mainly in homes or at the Yacht Club. For singles, at the hotel bars and Yacht Club. Some live music. No cinema or bowling alley. Occasional art or theater events. People tend to be around on the weekends because travel in PNG is all by air. Children do not usually invite all the kids in the class to their parties, so it is not a constant birthday circuit like in some posts.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It is good for families, couples, and single men. A number of married men's families stay in Australia for school/safety reasons.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
The country is largely Christian. There are some violent conflicts between ethnic groups in parts of the Highlands, but not in Port Moresby. Although the country has a reputation for widespread domestic violence, the government has been raising awareness on this and attitudes (if not behavior) are slowly changing. It is not uncommon for women in your workplace to be experiencing domestic violence at home. But as an expat woman, you will be treated respectfully at work and in your daily life. Regarding race, we have been struck by some of the outward racism from Australians towards PNGers, and long-term Australians towards Asians here.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The reefs in PNG are amazing and breathtaking. In Port Moresby: diving and snorkeling (from Airways, Yacht Club or Loloata Island); day or weekend trips to Loloata; sailing (yachts, Hobie Cat 16s, and Optimists for the kids), motor boating, going to Lolorua or Fisherman's Island; traditional Pacific kayaking; going Crystal Rapids picnic and swimming in river; Bootless Bay or other private beach day trips north of Port Moresby; tennis, soccer, squash, gyms; Port Moresby Arts Theatre; Aliance Francaise activities at the university; BBQ and hanging out at the Yacht Club; volunteering (but you need a visa for this if it's more than a couple hours a week).
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Story boards and life sized wood carvings from Sepik river, paintings, penis gourds, lizard skin hand drums, and baskets.
9. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Snow gear; expensive jewelry; and furniture.
3. But don't forget your:
Scuba/snorkeling gear (prescription mask if you wear glasses), boating and water sports equipment; cookbooks; cooler; grill; and beach tent.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
7. Do you have any other comments?
Papua New Guineans are wonderful, welcoming people and the reefs are spectacular!
