Abuja, Nigeria Report of what it's like to live there - 06/03/09
Personal Experiences from Abuja, Nigeria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Several places in Europe and Asia (This was my fifth expat experience).
2. How long have you lived here?
Two years- 2007-2009
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomat- US Embassy
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
From the US, just over 14 hours of flying time, but with layover time in Amsterdam the travel time is more like 20 hours. Going through Amsterdam on KLM was my preferred route, but many people also used Lufthansa (via Frankfurt) or British Airways (via London).
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
US Embassy housing is located mostly in Maitama and Wuse II. Commute times are generally very short; under 10 minutes. My experience with the housing was good, but, as with many posts, where you are assigned is a crapshoot. Many US Government families want to live in the Harvard compound, which is well set up for those with children. Other compounds are generally nice- spacious houses with pools, and in a couple of cases, tennis courts.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Expensive and limited. Grocery stores are very small in Abuja.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I shipped plenty of food and I am glad that I did, as I used a good portion of it.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There is cheap, convenient, and good Middle Eastern fast food available. Chicken places are also in abundance, although quality can vary. Pizza is also readily available. There are also some sit-down restaurants that are OK, but they are expensive for what you get. It's easy to spend $50-$100 per person for a meal out. Some of the better restaurants are: Obudu Grill, Chow's (Italian), and Chase's.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes are a concern, particularly because malaria is an issue here.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The diplomatic pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Expensive and unreliable, particularly in comparison to other parts of the world.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are several places, three of which are B-Natural (also a spa), the Hilton, and the Protea Asokoro hotel. I know that the Hilton is about $1,000 per year (there is a discount for US Embassy staff). None of the options is particularly cheap, and these facilities do not generally measure up to facilities available at many other posts.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Do not use them under any circumstances.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are plenty of evangelical christian services; Pentecostal and Roman Catholic are available, amongst others. There are also plenty of Mosques. With that said, I'm not certain how comfortable some expats would be attending these services. Many are very long and drawn out.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Magazines and newspapers available in the local press are of poor quality. Articles are often not well-written and lack credibility. DSTV and Hi-TV are available. DSTV is about $60 per month and offers a decent range of international channels and programming. Hi-TV is more limited, but it is popular because it has exclusive broadcasting rights for English Premier League football matches.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, but if you want to get to know and understand more of the country, study of one of the local languages, particularly Hausa or Yoruba.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Significant difficulties. There are few elevators (and lots of electrical outages) or other types of accommodations for the handicapped.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Not safe. RSO prohibits embassy staff from using these local transport options.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Because the roads within the Federal Capital Territory are good, a sedan is just fine for driving in the city. If you think you want to drive outside of Abuja, a 4WD is a better bet. Bring lots of spare parts with you.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
I wouldn't call it high speed. Very expensive ($50 per month and up) and very slow. Some were able to use Skype and Vonage consistently. I was not able to use either one for most of my tour. The internet speed at my residence was just too slow.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I had a phone assigned by the embassy; no experience using the local prepaid SIM cards.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
More formal.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Unhealthy during the dry (harmattan) season, due to dust and burning of brush and/or trash, but otherwise not bad.
2. What immunizations are required each year?
A significant number of immunizations are needed to stay healthy, although most are not administered on an annual basis.
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Significant. The situation was deteriorating when I departed post. More robberies, carjackings, etc. seemed to be taking place. US Government staff must take an armored vehicle with police escort to the airport.
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The medical unit at the embassy is very good. Amongst the usual accoutrement of medical issues in the developing world, malaria is the big concern in Abuja.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There is a wet season and a dry season. The dry season gets very hot (40 degrees Celsius during the day) and the wet season tends to be cooler (but also more humid).Nights are often considerably cooler, although this was not the case this past year.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
N/A, although I did not get good feedback from others about the K-12 education options in Abuja.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I heard of others with special-needs kids who seemed to have issues.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Not huge. I'd guess 500 or less.
2. Morale among expats:
Very low.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are limited social activities; therefore you will do a lot of entertaining at home and at friends' homes, augmented by limited restaurant dining.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's not really a great city for almost anyone. Generally speaking, I'd say that families with children probably cope the best, while couples and particularly singles struggle more. There's not a lot to do here and the pressures at work are enormous. Regardless, those that have worked in West Africa before (and have an affinity for it) and/or have family ties to the region also tend to do significantly better than those who do not.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Homosexuality is illegal. The country is split 50/50 Muslim and Christian; most of the Christians are strong evangelicals; as a result, there is very little tolerance of gay and lesbian lifestlyes, particularly in comparison with large parts of Asia and Latin America. Some examples of homophobia that I came across were shocking; again, maybe not by African standards or those of certain middle eastern countries but definitely in comparison to many other parts of the world.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Lots of issues, particularly amongst Nigerians. Expatriates don't feel these as much. The two exceptions are gender and age issues. In my experience, Nigerians (both male and female) don't give female expatriate staff (particularly those under age 50) the same respect as their (younger) male counterparts. While this is a statement that certainly holds true in many developing countries, the gender and age bias that I experienced in Nigeria was unlike anyplace else I have ever lived or worked. Women under 50 without previous West Africa experience should take heed of this warning.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Not many. If you are lucky enough to cultivate a nice group of friends, you will probably entertain yourselves at each other's homes and at the limited number of restaurants in town. It's fair to say that the type of recreation and travel opportunities available at most posts are not available in Abuja. There is no American Club, although one is sorely needed there. The one notable exception is golf; there is a decent golf course in Abuja that keeps many people occupied. But its not particularly cheap, and for junior officers on low salaries, the cost of membership may be prohibitive.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There is some old Nigerian furniture that is worth purchasing, but you have to be "in the know" in regards to what the real antiques are. A lot of African knickknacks for sale are actually imported from other countries.
9. Can you save money?
That depends greatly on how you live. Its a very expensive place, but if you don't eat out, entertain very often, or travel much, it is possible to save some money. Families seem to have a more difficult time saving money.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely not. Having to deal with difficult people day in and out, and with little to see or do in one's spare time, high prices, a difficult working environment, isolation, extreme gender bias, and a limited ability to get out and travel make it hard to justify ever going back.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of good customer service; also your assumptions that this will be the positive personally enriching overseas experience that you hoped it will be.
3. But don't forget your:
Coping mechanisms, positive attitude, your consumables shipment, a calendar to count the days to the end of your tour, and lots of patience.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Things Fall Apart
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Things Fall Apart
7. Do you have any other comments?
This was the most difficult overseas posting I've ever had. It's hard to put into words the difficulties involved in being posted to Abuja. Before I departed for my assignment there, I thought that perhaps many people had overexaggerated the challenges, but I found out the hard way that this post has a bad reputation for a reason. One thing I can say is that Nigerians can come off being very aggressive. Working with, dealing with, and driving with Nigerians becomes a very wearing experience over time. Abuja is also very isolated; there are only four direct international flights in and out of Abuja (Addis, London, Frankfurt, and Amsterdam), making travel time-consuming and expensive. Investigate very carefully before agreeing to come to Abuja. This is a place where it is very easy to become frustrated and depressed.
