Abuja, Nigeria Report of what it's like to live there - 08/23/08
Personal Experiences from Abuja, Nigeria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No -- lots of other places.
2. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Embassy.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing for embassy folks is in compounds -- either houses (duplex or free standing) or small apartment buildings. Non-Embassy who have to find your own -- it is a landlord's market. Super expensive, with landlords who just want the money -- make sure ALL repairs, changes, etc are done BEFORE you hand over the cash. Commute time is great -- 10-15 minutes for just about everyone. Abuja is NOT a big city.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Availability is getting better. There are several grocery stores expats use (just remember -- they're good by African standards, not Western). The cost?Yikes. Anywhere from 2-10x the price of stuff in the U.S. And the State Department thinks that cutting the COLA is a good place to save money -- since we've been here the dollar has lost about 5% on the naira, and Nigerian inflation is at 14% -- but they just cut our COLA by 12%. Makes Abuja very expensive.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Almost no fast food -- there is a Portuguese chicken chain that's OK. And a Nigerian fried chicken franchise, with 2 restaurants, I think. Decent restaurants? Not really -- they are generally very iffy and very expensive.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Send it with a friend? I wouldn't use the Nigerian postal service for anything -- in fact, I don't know if it even really exists and functions.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Plentiful, cheap, but honesty is an issue.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is Nigeria. No sane, wise person uses either.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is one small expat fellowship that began last year and is growing. There are churches everywhere, but few that most Westerners would find feasible (by Western standards Nigerian church services are usually long, chaotic affairs!). Maybe fun to visit but unlikely as a viable choice for an American family. There are some mosques, but I think many Western Muslims would find them a little bit as the churches are. Non-Muslims are not welcome in the mosques here.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Lots of English newspapers, all Nigerian. DSTV is available, but extremely expensive.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None -- Nigeria has 250 or so languages, but English will see you through in most places.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are basically no accommodations for disabled people.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right side.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are no buses or trains, but taxis abound -- most of them some guy who happens to have wheels and a motor. Embassy personnel are forbidden from using them, but I know a lot of private Westerners who do use them.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
For Abuja (as hardly anyone can/wants to travel outside of Abuja) just about any sedan or SUV will do. DEFINTELY need an SUV for outside the city. If you're lucky enough to have access to mail service, use the internet to find parts. The search for good service here always continues...
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
I wouldn't say high-speed internet is available in Abuja. There are internet services, which are costly ($200-$300 per month, usually with a large initial fee). And service is usually poor. The electricity goes out 2-20 times most days; if you're in Embassy housing there is a back-up generator, but it cancels the internet session most of the time. Even submitting this review required saving it onto a Word doc, then restarting the internet and cutting and pasting my answers back in.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
They are fairly cheap, and plentiful. Service is terrible -- it's almost impossible to complete a call and be able to have a conversation -- so EVERYONE sends text messages here. I've even used them for initial contacts to high government officials, which would be unthinkable elsewhere.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
IVG for Embassy, mediocre Vonage for others.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
None.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
In the Embassy, suits for most men, skirts/pantsuits for most women. In public -- I'd say NO SHORTS unless you're going just to an expat grocery store. Nigerians are fairly conservative dressers, and they dress in local costume most of the time.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Good -- Abuja has no industry, and not very many cars.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Nigeria can have terrible crime, but Abuja is a lot better. You can't be careless, and you should be careful at night, but you'll likely be OK. Travel outside of the Ring Road that surrounds the city should be done judiciously.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Lots of health concerns. Anything from the usual stomach trouble you find anywhere in the Third World to malaria, bizarre infections, mango flies (the ones that burrow into your skin -- a nurse I know said she pulls them out of people all the time, but I haven't known any embassy folks to get them; Embassy pets have). A word on malaria -- most expats take prophylaxis. I don't, and neither do a lot of people. Expats do get malaria, but Abuja really isn't that mosquito-y and to me the side effects of the medicine weren't worth it. There are no dentists. Pretty much anything more serious than a sore throat needs to be treated somewhere else.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
A long rainy season in which it rains most days for part of the day, and a long dry season in which it will not rain a drop.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
American School is middle of the road, compared to other American international schools we've seen. Getting better. The British School (the Regent School) has problems, we're told. And there are French, German, and Turkish schools, but I really don't know about them.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Limited.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small -- less than 500, I'd guess.
2. Morale among expats:
Low to moderate. In coming to Abuja, there is a fair amount of pain and no real gain. It is possible to be content here, despite some of the things I've said (that's just reality in Nigeria) -- you just have to drop your expectations to nearly zero.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Pretty much mostly in homes. And there is a movie theater that opened up last year – it’s nice, and movies are fairly current. Any international travel is expensive from Abuja, and inconvenient.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Better for families & couples -- there is NOTHING to do, but at least you'll have each other. Singles get pretty bored (but then again so do couples & families).
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
As good for them as anyone.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Nothing that expats would run into. Amongst Nigerians themselves, there can be tremendous trouble.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Almost none. Along with the totally outrageous cost of living, this is Abuja's worst aspect (Lagos is way better, but they have the crime).Pretty much any fun you have, you'll make yourself. There is a Hash, and a few super-expensive and very mediocre restaurants. Travel outside of Abuja is potentially dangerous (crime, terrible roads, intermittent fuel stations, and horrific driving) and pointless (what would you go to see? There are no tourist sites, no tourist infrastructure, and generally horrible infrastructure).Roads are neither lighted nor marked.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Almost none. Abuja is nearly devoid of the charming crafts you find in other parts of Africa (there is a craft market or two).
9. Can you save money?
Yes! This is a good thing. Despite the prices, anything you don't spend on food you can save, as there is nothing to do.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
A qualified yes. The work in the Embassy is super interesting -- for all its negative points, Nigeria is an incredibly complex, important country. The people can be very friendly and warm.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of fun.
3. But don't forget your:
Self-reliance and resilience.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
None that I know of! Abuja is a new city, with little/no culture, history. There is some good Nigerian fiction and non-fiction, though.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
None that I know of! Abuja is a new city, with little/no culture, history. There is some good Nigerian fiction and non-fiction, though.
