Abuja, Nigeria Report of what it's like to live there - 09/01/19
Personal Experiences from Abuja, Nigeria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
We've also lived in England.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Alexandria, VA. Best case scenario, it's a 16 hour trip with one stop in either London, Paris or Frankfurt. Travel from Abuja generally sucks. Even trips within Africa take forever and include one, two, or three stops, since there are few direct connections.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year down, two more years to go.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing on our compound is as good and modern as it can probably get in Abuja. The spacious, well appointed concrete houses have small back yards (some fully enclosed for dogs and/or toddlers). There is also a small playground, a tiny dog park (which is mostly used by the children as playground 2.0), a pool and a club house with a well-equipped gym. A giant wall with concertina wire and 24/7 security make it a safe place to live and a wonderful place for children to play outside (think America back in the '80s when it was safe for children to play in the streets with the neighbors' kids).
The commute to the embassy depends on the time of the day and weather conditions. Between 20 minutes on a good day and 90 minutes on a bad (rainy) day.
Traffic in general is nuts here. Road markings and traffic regulations seem optional.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are plenty of European brands available, so even if you might not be able to get the brands you're used to, you will be able to get something similar. There are a handful of good grocery stores within the city and even a few "malls" with fast food places such as Domino's pizza or KFC.
Any dry goods you can't find or like here, can be shipped through pouch, so don't worry about putting too much dry goods in your consumables, focus on liquids, as pouch shipment of liquids is quite restricted. As a general rule, everything that's not local is expensive (think a kilo of apples for 9 USD, Philadelphia cream cheese 8 USD, and so on). Fruit is seasonal, but plentiful, lettuce is usually quite questionable and looks somewhat pitiful. The large grocery stores have decent fruit & veggies departments, but the local farmer's market beats them all. Send your driver or your housekeeper if you don't want to pay expat "surcharge".
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I shipped way too much. Since pouch allows for dry goods to be shipped, I wouldn't put much of those in our consumables. I do recommend putting in cleaning supplies, e.g., scrubbin' bubbles (I have yet to find anything that comes close here), liquid laundry detergent, etc. We did ship dog food since options here are rather questionable, but you can still get everything through pouch (canned as well as dried).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
We have Indian, Ehtiopian, Lebanese, Italian, Thai/Japanese (even sushi!), and plenty more here. You want burgers, pizza or fried chicken? You got it. We even have a Cold Stone here.
Delivery depends on where your compound is. We don't get much delivered here, because we're kind of far out.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We get ants by the doors every once in a while. Sometimes a little lizard slips into the house. And every six months we had the area around the house fumigated to get rid of cockroaches. Mosquitoes are well under control on our compound. Every once in a while, a random snake somehow finds its way into a back yard. Kids are warned to run the other way and let an adult know immediately.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We receive mail through diplomatic pouch. It's quite random. Sometimes it takes 10 days to get mail from Dulles, sometimes it takes 6 weeks. I was told Christmas time is the worst, but in summer, delivery times go up as well. Mail is picked up at the mail room at the embassy. The staff is always nice and helpful.
You can send flat mail (Christmas cards last Christmas took about six weeks to get to the US, eight weeks to Europe) and mail up to the size of a video cassette. Anything bigger requires "pony express" or shipment via DHL; however, "returns" of ordered items ARE possible, even if they are larger.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There are plenty of candidates for housekeepers, stewards, nannies, drivers etc. It's all a matter of your expectations and needs. It took us some trial and error to find a person who matches our expectations. Most houses have staff quarters, and local staff appreciate that.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
We have a well-equipped gym and a small pool on our compound. They are free. Transcorp Hilton has a gym and classes, but there are some classes on some compounds as well and personal trainers don't cost much either.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is the fraud capital of the world, so think twice (or more) before you use any card anywhere. Cash rules. There is a bank teller at the embassy and an ATM as well, but it is not recommended to use other ATMs.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are plenty of English-speaking churches here (English is the official language here!). My husband wanted to go to the Christmas service at the Vatican embassy, but I was honestly shocked by the lack of security and did not feel comfortable there.
Chabad of Nigeria is within the 6-mile-zone around the embassy. The Rebbe and his wife are wonderful.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Almost everybody speaks English. Some French is helpful, too, but not required.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Depends on the degree of disabilities and the medical care required.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Use of any local public transport, taxis, or Uber is strongly discouraged. Local staff from our compound got mugged in a taxi on the way to work recently. Use carpool or hire a driver who was vetted by the embassy. The CLO or the social sponsor are good POCs for that.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Don't bring any cars that are low to the ground. Despite this being the capital, there are some areas with dirt roads and giant potholes. Think SUV and you're good. Traffic is crazy here and people drive like there's no tomorrow, so you want to sit high and have a lot of metal around you to avoid panic attacks.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is fast enough to stream Netflix, Hulu, etc. Some compounds have "Legend" pre-installed, so it doesn't take long to have it available. We worked with our social sponsor to have it available upon arrival and it worked. A second provider is recommended as backup if you do home office (hello EFMs!) or have impatient children...Legend and Spectranet can both be paid for at the commissary (unless you want to get a bank account here, you pay cash every month)
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Home-country plans don't make sense here unless you want to pay outrageous roaming fees. Local providers are fine and offer mobile internet as well. You can get sim-cards and top up your plan at the commissary.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Blueblood vets is a good veterinary practice. Instead of kennel services, housekeepers usually watch your pets when you travel. Pets do not need to be quarantined.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are EFM jobs at the embassy, some EFMs work at the schools, and some telecommute or freelance.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are volunteer opportunities. Contact the CLO for information.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Nigerians like to dress up for occasions. At the Embassy, I have seen business attire and business casual, outside the embassy everything goes.
Formal dress depends on what events you attend. We have a Marine Ball and there might be other events or celebrations, so it's good to bring at least something a little more formal.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
We are required to stay within the 6-mile-zone around the embassy (which is pretty much the ring road around the city) for our own safety. Any trips outside that zone should be discussed with RSO. Walking around outside the compounds (where possible) is not recommended, as there is a lot of crime here. Drive wherever you need to go, and park on guarded parking lots whenever possible. Stay alert and don't get too comfortable. When you visit malls or restaurants, make sure you know how to get out quickly. Don't go alone, if you can avoid it and keep your mobile phone charged and Post 1 on speed dial. Do the weekly radio checks, so you know how to handle the radio in case of emergency. Teach your children, too.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The medical staff at the Embassy is great. If they send you to a local place for X-rays, CTs, or other exams, trust your gut. I left one facility once because I didn't feel comfortable after I saw a male nurse leave the bathroom with surgical gloves on and handling equipment after that. Keep your eyes open, and leave if you don't feel comfortable. A good place for above mentioned exams is the Turkish hospital (Nizamiye Hospital). It is modern, clean, and the staff is diligent and seems well-trained.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality can be decent on one day, and utterly gross on another (think burning tyre/dog poo smell in the air). During rainy season the air is humid but clean(-er). Dry season is taxing for anybody with lung issues. Make sure you have a humidifier in your bedroom(s)
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Harmattan is not a good time for people with Asthma or lung issues. For food allergies it's the same as everywhere: make sure you know what you eat. If you have any kind of intolerance, shopping options are limited. When in doubt, stock up in your consumables and place regular orders so you don't run out.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The limited range of movement can be seriously frustrating. Use school vacations and R&R to get out as much as you can.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
We have everything from hot and dry to wet and mild. Bring hot summer clothes (and SUNSCREEN) and rain gear.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are several international schools, each comes with its own quirks. Our son attends CTL, which I wholeheartedly recommend. The classes are small (up to eight children), the teachers are young and motivated and the zest for life is palpable. You can feel that the teachers love their job. Special needs are welcome and well accommodated there.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I can only speak for CTL, but the accommodations are excellent. The teachers work with each child (special needs or not) if there are issues that need to be addressed. We even got a special needs teacher from our son's school to work with him over the summer (we paid for it, but it was well worth it!)
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes to pre-schools. Instead of day care, most people hire nannies, who are not expensive. We don't have one, but the ladies I've seen tending to the children on our compounds are sweet and loving nannies. Our school welcomes children from 7:30 am and offers afternoon clubs. I don't think there is after school care as such, but you can always ask.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Schools offer sports clubs, there are swimming coaches who visit our compound, and there are some martial arts classes on the largest compound.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expat community is fairly large. Lots of embassies from all over the world, a large German construction company with its own compound and Chinese companies as well. Morale depends on whom you ask, to be honest.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
It's much like everywhere else. Going out to restaurants and bars, events at the embassies, etc.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's always what you make of it. The only group I wouldn't recommend bringing here are teenagers. It's a very restrictive environment (as you can't really go out by yourself at night), so they might not enjoy it here.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
The Muslim population is large, I would at least be careful with PDA.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Nigerians are generally friendly and welcoming people, but it's not easy to make friends outside our community. Wheeling and dealing is a big thing here, so always be mindful of that.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Gender equality doesn't exist. In the city, you have modern young women who work modern jobs - but on the other hand, even within the city, you have women who live and work like it's the dark ages.
I'm not going to get into the religious situation, as the issues are well-known.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
No trips within the country for security reasons.The highlight is the hills coming to life at the beginning of rainy season. Within days, the entire city turns lush and green.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Since you have the 6-mile-zone, there are no hidden gems. There is a zoo that might be interesting for kids, a cinema, some malls, some decent restaurants. Look out for Jazz nights at Chi Thai Revolution; the last one was pretty amazing, but that's it.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Definitely if you are into African art and handicrafts. "Mama Africa" is a great market for those items, and I "befriended" a vendor there who has been hunting for some interesting "antiques" from other provinces for me. Hilton also has a small market, which has interesting artworks I haven't seen at Mama Africa.
Masks, furniture, fabrics, and bronze statues/items are interesting things to buy.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That people are driving like there's no tomorrow. Some people tend to take the entire arm if you offer them a hand (not that that's an uncommon thing elsewhere, but I've experienced a lot of it here)
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I'm torn. It's a good experience, but if ever offered to come back, I don't think I would do another tour here.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations, and you might be positively surprised.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen and awareness of your surroundings.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
No, but talk to people who are currently there or were there.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Good luck. Hang in there. TALK to people. VENT, if you feel the need, DON'T keep it bottled up, and TRAVEL whenever you can to catch a break.
