Abuja, Nigeria Report of what it's like to live there - 02/26/19
Personal Experiences from Abuja, Nigeria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. We've worked in many countries, perhaps 36 in our career. Most of those we've work in for two to eight weeks at a time, which is completely different than 'living' somewhere. We have lived in Tokyo, Japan; Berlin, Germany; The Hague, The Netherlands: Mexico City, Mexico: Amman, Jordan; Riyadh, Saudi Arabia; and Abuja.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
We fly in here from Washington, DC or Chicago. The flights almost always go through Frankfurt, which is a great airport and easy to use. We used to have to fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, then come on with a smaller flight. Now we don't, thank heaven, as the Addis airport leaves something to be desired. Some flights also come straight from Paris or Istanbul.
3. How long have you lived here?
Four years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission, but as a contractor. We are very familiar with the embassy housing, but live in different accomodations.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I'm only familiar with one compound. The apartments have been upgraded and while the entryway can cause your heart to sink at its gloom and general air of cement desolation, the actual units themselves are roomy and comfortable enough. The up side to the neighborhood is that it is attached to the American school so kids can just walk through a gate to school. Large central play areas and pools and clubhouse. Covered parking for some units and a very secure, gated enclosure, make this a safe place to live.
That said, as contractors we don't have to live there and I'm quite happy about that, although I do envy their kitchens. The one in our accommodations is small and lacks counter space. Having done this for a long time, I can say that the above neighborhood the least desirable housing I've ever seen. On the up note, for Nigeria, I'm sure it's pretty great!
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Almost everything is available here if you shop Grand Square. There is another grocery across from the Sheridan hotel (I would not stay there) in a shopping center type place. It's cleaner and brighter than Grand Square, but has fewer choices. Grand Square is sort of like a dark, slightly squalid Target and has a little of everything. For Nigeria, it's as good as it seems to get.
The commissary is very limited and small. Don't count on it.
It is possible to buy really nice fruits like papaya and avocado just along the road.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We ship, via Amazon and get the dried goods like mac n cheese, etc. You can buy lactose free milk at Grand Square, but so far I've seen nothing about 'gluten-free'. So if you have dietary restrictions...bring it with you.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
I think there is a Domino's but we've never used it. 355 Steakhouse is very good. Waki has good Indian. BluCabana has nice meals. The Fraser Hotel has the best evening buffet in town and is worth every penny. Transcorp HIlton has some good choices with Zuma Grill, Buka, and a poolside bar. Sheraton Hotel has a mediocre Italian place that won't give you food poisoning and also I decent bar for drinks and snacks at night.
If you're new, you WILL get sick. It is only a matter of 'when'. That said, it's usually only because the bacteria is 'different' not because it's 'bad'.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Malaria medicine is a must. Some lizards and such always want to hang around. Not a problem for us. Oh, sometimes ants can be a real pain in the neck.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
They have to go Pony Express (if you will). There is no post at the Embassy for outgoing mail. Packages may come in, thank heaven, but things going out must be hand carried to the U.S. and mailed.
We have had things shipped in to the country outside the Embassy mail system, but it is a costly and dicey process. DHL and Fed Ex, supposedly deliver here. We've had best luck with DHL. Which I'm sure must also ship out, but there just isn't much that you'd want to ship back unless you were a newbie and overly excited by ugly statues.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It is easy and cheap to get household help. If you want to get staff in, there are always people leaving who have help that they'd like to get resettled with a job.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Don't now much about that. We use the one at the Hilton as we can also then swim, or play tennis and have dinner. There is one stable for horse riding that I'm aware of and has a German trainer. Very odd set up, with a variety of equally odd horses.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This seems to be the fraud capital of the world. Stay safe and if you're with the Embassy, use the ATM there. If not, we recommend the ATM in the Transcorp Hilton side hall with shops towards the pastry shop. The bills there are the only ones we've found in Abuja that come out seeming new. The rest are horrible looking and smell off. Think possibly laundered, or not...toilet paper. Credit cards are taken most places, but be cautious. We've been here four years and have had three new cards issued due to fraud and WE ARE careful!
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is an Angelican church. We found attending too stressful due to bizarre parking behaviors and simply watch a broadcast Sunday mass.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. English is everywhere. No one bothers to learn Falani or it's derivitives. It's useless anywhere else. French might help here, as many of the other Embassies here have French speakers in them.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Maybe. It's chaos and though the major hotels have facilities for the handicapped, the outer world does not. I'm not sure about neighborhoods or the American School.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No. Get a car only from one of the major hotels if you have to hire a vehicle. The Embassy may have suggestions for other types of transport.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
One you don't mind getting filthy, dented or like too much. It's best to have something that sits up high so that you can see what's happening around you. The rules of the road or only sometimes followed and it is frequent to have people simply turn from the far lane and cut you off. We have an enormous SUV Toyota with a 'cow pusher' on the front and trust me, we USE the cow pusher. Not on cows either. Though sometimes there are cows in the road! ;D
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We use only wifi, so I'm not a good person to ask that question. We turn off our US phones and that's that. Think of Nigeria as an extended stay retreat ! That helps!
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Just get a phone in the country. Carriers from outside the country don't even register the signal.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Pets are allowed and I believe there is a decent vet. Again, have to ask at the Embassy. We elect to leave ours at home with his sitter while we're here. I miss him terribly, but I love him too much to have him here. To me, it is NOT an animal friendly country. I've seen one cat in four years. Why? Couldn't tell you. In Saudi there were thousands. I suspect...
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I write, so I'm always working here from home. There are quite a number of listings available for professionals if you search the overseas job databases. Whether you would actually want to be out and about doing them? Not for me. I find that my personal space and personal safety antennae tend to freak out here. That's saying something as I drove on the Libre alone all over Mexico, I never let the mutawwi get me down or stop my exploring the souks in Saudi, and I've explored all over Jordan alone. So the fact that this place unnerves me, well you decide.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Don't know, but I would think they need the help.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
I find westerners tend to dress poorly here. The Embassy is fairly dressed up, but in public its less so. Africans always look as good as they possibly can when they're in public. I think expats sort of 'give up' as it's very hot and very dirty and dressing up just seems like too much work. I dress completely differently here than I ever do at home in the States. Here, my entire wardrobe consists of dresses. I have three pairs of shoes. An orthopedic sandal that I wear for everyday and pool, a flat dress sandal with beads that I wear out to dinner, and a pair of gym shoes for exercise or if we have to go somewhere that walking a distance will be required.
The dresses I buy at Goodwill or Walmart and simply leave in the wardrobe when we go home. I tell the maid to take them as I never want to see them again come home leave time. I have a $3 watch I wear, and here it looks like a Movado. I have a clutch of $1.99 sale earrings that I wear and then also give away. With all that said, I always look as nice or better than most of my counterparts. It's not a place to bring nice clothing.
My husband wears Dockers, a white dress shirt, jacket and tie to work at the Embassy. Most men wear suits, but Friday is casual day for jeans. The women are well dressed, but at a lesser level then DC. Again, just remember the dust, sweat and rain if you have to go of the office to work at all.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
RSO askes most people to stay within the ring road around Abuja. At night if you have to go to the airport, we take hired security officers if the Embassy can't provide them. It's the presidential elections here now and the voting has come with mortar shells and a death count. This is not a 1st or 2nd world country in my opinion, no matter what they would like you to believe. The people are poor, desperate and used to a system that is not run efficiently. People used to think Mexico was unsafe. Give me that any day. Be smart, and don't park in an out of the way place. Don't stay out after dark without a group. Lock your doors when you get in the car and keep them that way, especially at intersections.
I've seen old Africa hands, (women) who think these are all ridiculous assertions. So you'll have to read the travel advisory and make up your own minds. To me, this is far far more uncomfortable of a place than any other we've served in. Lagos is a different story, I understand. As a port it's more happening and has more shopping, dining etc. Abuja is not Lagos, in my opinion. Though Lagos is famous for it's robberies and muggings, so again... use caution.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria. Food poisioning. 'Buj belly'. That's about it. Med unit has most things covered. If you're not with the Embassy, I think outside health care would be dicey. The hospital looks like a place you would go to die. Try the med unit at the Hilton. Anything serious is med evaced. If you're not Embassy, make sure you have the necessary health emergency service coverage.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Bad if you are allergies or have asthma. Wet season cuts down on the dust, but ups the allergies.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
You're screwed. Sorry. I've got asthma, gluten intolerance, lactose intolerance, etc. I eat fruit and meat. That's it. That's all there is. Like I said, they have lactose-free milk at Grand Square, but that's all we've found. Nothing gluten-free. For dessert I have fruit. For breakfast I have eggs or potatoes and fruit. Ditto lunch. Though they do have different meats here, chicken, goat, beef...odd tasting, fresh fish usually. and some lamb.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
We've stayed this long at this post because of the sun. I do not suffer from SAD here like I did in northern Europe, (The Netherlands is always gloomy). Mexico, Jordan, Saudi where all great for that. Germany and The Netherlands I had to have a 'happy light' and use St. John's Wort.
As a trained psychologist, I would say that this post is not for the whining, faint of heart type. If you have kids and need household help, this would be a better post. Safe access to the school, large area to run around and play, close access to other wives and mothers, etc.
On the other hand, if you've got a shopaholic wife or one who isn't content to stay home...this might be a very stressful situation for them. Also for people who are less than aggressive if they have to drive. To succeed on the road here you must be patient, but assertive and if you suffer from 'road rage' in D.C., don't assume because the traffic is less, that the frustration will also be less.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Overall climate has two seasons, hot, but a bit cooler and wet, then hot and dry. Dry season is hot, clear, but dusty. I love that season. When it starts raining, the humidity and heat, tend to sap my energy. HOWEVER, if you have never seen a thunderstorm in Nigeria, you have never seen the most brilliant lightening, the most rolling thunder. It is an absolute show!!! When you hear the Toto song, "I've seen the rains down in Arica," line, this is what they're talking about. Spectacular! And, also, not for those afraid of storms.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I only know of the American School. It's fine, I believe. We don't have kids.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Clueless, Sorry.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
No idea. Again sorry.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
The housing puts everyone with kids together and they have lots of activities for them. There are swimming and tennis lesson at the Hilton. One Horse stable with a German lady that teaches riding.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expat community seems fairly large to me. Though I've heard others describe it as 'small'. All depends on your perspective I guess. To me, living in housing away from the Embassy, all my neighbors are other expats. Each week there are French, Dutch, Germans, Spaniards, some South Africans. Lots of people come here to work. There is a definite pecking order in society though. I notice it more probably as a white woman, than many who will live in Embassy enclaves.
While Nigerians are a lovely people and very friendly. YOU MUST REMEMBER, though that it really seems to be all about the money here, and what it can do.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are always the people in your housing area or you can meet people at the social areas like the pool bar at the Sheraton. Dining or bars at the Hilton. Buffet night at the Fraser Hotel. The Hilton has a casino and there are usually expats there too. Though I"ve only been once for a walkthrough. Haven't heard of any clubs.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It is what you make of it, as are all posts. I'd say best for families, as housing is focused on providing activities for the kids and families are all together.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I'd say no. Very conservative and 50% uMslim.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It's easy to make friends, just remember, it might seem like someone wants something. Nigerians are very friendly gregarious people. So enjoy their good banter and good natures. Your warmth and conversation alone are huge gifts.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes! OMG! Women here are treated unfairly at best, in my opinion. Their lives seem to be a misery of hard work and harder family lives.
Ethnic minorities and political parties vie for power with violence. It seems as though Boko Haram runs things in the North and bandits rule the seas outside Lagos. I've heard of robberies on the highway from here to Lagos.
It is a 50% Christian, 50% muslim country and frankly, that seems to the least acrimonious difference. Politics and the constant fight for money, and power seem to fuel most of the unrest.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
As an experienced State person, I've seen it all. At the pool at the Hilton I often hear British Air stewards lamenting the town. On other hand, we've been here foue years and have been grateful for every minute of it. Sun! That's the thing. Right now the Midwest, where we're now located is at -27 degrees Celsius. I walked through the art market this morning at a balmy +22 degrees Celsius. I hate cold and I hate gloom. So Nigeria, is good for both. Warm and sunny.
Nigeria has some nice things. Housing is ok, Help is cheap. Sun is plentiful. Fruits are excellent and if you want to escape a demanding family back home...this is the place to do it. No one visits.
You can visit Zambia and do a safari and see Victoria Falls. Or Kenya where you can safari and then go to the beach in Mombassa. That's closest. South Africa, while further, has whale watching, wine tours and beach. To the North you can see Morroco and Egypt. Go West and you can get a nice holiday on the beaches of a reasonably civilized Senegal. It's all here, but not that easy to get to. Flights are a bit of a hassle and usually pricey. Though the airport here is ok.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
You can take a day trip out to one of the lakes and hike, but that's about it. Hidden gems...bar at the Sheraton and Hilton. Buffet at Fraser. Nike Arts Center. Cafe at BluCabana. That's about it. I just don't think Nigeria is a 'hidden gem' sort of place.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
No. Not really. I've collected art from all over the world and while there are arts, etc. It is very specifically Falani and you have to like that sort of thing.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Sun.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Expect a lot of down time, peace and quiet and a home life. You won't go out that much. Ship anything for special dietary needs. Leave most of your 'good clothes' at home. Don't expect to have the 'Africa' experience here. It's not safari or savanna country. Or not, at least, that you can get to safely.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. We've enjoyed the sun, the ability to save money, and the quiet time together. If you don't want those things or need them. Don't come.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Heavy coats, boots, long underwear. Your notions of 'romantic' Africa. Your 'food snob' attitudes.
4. But don't forget your:
SPRAY SUNSCREEN. Patience, fortitude, bathing suit and sunscreen. Spray sunscreen... ship that, can't find it here.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
I'm not sure there is a way to prepare for Nigeria.
6. Do you have any other comments?
The work for the professionals is interesting. The kids don't seem to mind as they're all running around screaming and having a blast at the pool. I think the wives have the hardest time. It's just doesn't seem to be a great place for women. You'll need to be pretty family-centered to be happy here.
