Abuja, Nigeria Report of what it's like to live there - 06/06/16
Personal Experiences from Abuja, Nigeria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I am a 20-year veteran with the State Department, and my experiences include Freetown, Monrovia, Sanaa, Nouakchott, Sarajevo, Khartoum, and Dhaka.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
I am currently in Abuja. It takes about 20 hours from Washington DC, through Frankfurt before landing in Abuja. As of this writing, some connections are taking longer due to the need to stop in Ghana or Cameroon for refueling. Flight time from DC to Frankfurt is about 8 and 1/2 hours; Frankfurt to Abuja takes about 5 and 1/2 hours. The layover in Frankfurt is about 3 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two and a half years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing for most expatriates can be comfortable, but in Abuja it is costly. Abuja's traffic is light compared to that in Lagos, with 20- to 30-minute commutes at times. Be aware that Nigerian drivers are apt to drive opposite to normal traffic patterns and on sidewalks. Living inside the ring road is expensive, so some housing is located in Jabi Lake, outside the city proper. Even there, commutes are reasonable.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Prices are increasing because the naira is losing value and the price controls on gas have been lifted, thus increasing transport costs. And the government is out of money, meaning that fewer items are likely to be imported. Still, by African standards, when compared with Cotonou or Addis, there is a wide selection of items here. And special items, like Chinese spices or English cream or American cheeses, are available.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Antifreeze is not available. Spare parts such as oil filters are not available or could be counterfeit. Food items are largely available, with some diplomatic missions having deliveries of locally produced meat from Fellak's (a Jos-based butcher), fresh strawberries, fresh tofu, fresh vegetables, and flowers. Cheeses such as Swiss, Brie, Blue, and Romano are available.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are many restaurants in Abuja, but their quality is variable and really not that good. However, some expats like them --- partially, I think, for the variety. The best are: Wakkis (an Indian place), Johnny Rocket's, and a brick oven pizza restaurant (that one is hard to find--as they have no sign!) Take-out food is available at KFC and Domino's, and they offer delivery service for a small fee.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nothing unusual, but there are insects here. In the Spring there is a bug that, when squashed, emits an acid that can burn your skin. Don't squash a bug on your skin. Flick it off.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use the U.S. diplomatic pouch and outgoing personnel to carry mail out. Postal facilities simply don't exist here.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Labor is inexpensive, but the quality varies. We pay 40,000 naira for a full-time person, which (at 200 to $1 U.S.) is 200 dollars for the month. This is just for a housekeeper/dog walker.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms and workout areas, and they are reasonable. But the quality varies.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I would not use a credit card here. They have ATMs, and many people use them, but there is a limit on daily disbursements. Note that the machines are cell-phone linked and may lose cell signals on a regular basis.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, but you have to shop around. The ARK is popular with ex-pats.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not much, but as with any foreign country, knowing the local language -- even just courtesies -- is a plus.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Many public places and government buildings simply are not compliant.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
First, be aware that the RSO does not permit official USG employees to use public transport. Second, there is a real issue with the driving -- none of the vehicles have seat belts, and traffic accidents are very frequent. So, while it is affordable (200 naira for one US Dollar) to go from one zone to another, the cost and risk are both high. And by the way, your hired domestic will say it costs five dollars to travel to your housing, but that is the "foreigner price, which is higher than what the locals pay.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring an SUV or something with a high clearance. While there are decent roads here in Abuja, there are times when you will need high clearance or have to go over a curb.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
There is internet. The price we have for our cell phone data plan is $50 U.S. for 22GB. This is a recent reduction from 90 USD for 20GB. I expect some plans will still be at the old prices, so shop around.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local is the way to go, but they require a passport and a photo and fingerprints. This is to prevent money laundering, or so they say.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, there is a vet with western training. Ask around.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Many spouses have U.S. Embassy jobs or contract work with NGOs such as the World Bank. It can be intermittent or part-time. Telecommuting can involve issues because internet access is sometimes sporadic, but it is getting better. The Management section at the Embassy doesn't advertise openings and solicit Eligible Family Members (EFM)s, as other management sections do in other embassies, so the wait-time for an Embassy job can be as long as 6 months.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Many. Some teach English to Hausa speakers at a nearby school, and some volunteer at the Employee Association. There are many un-met needs that a volunteer can perform.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business attire or native dress. Formal for the Marine Ball. Nigerians tend to be more formal and rank- or class-oriented then they let on. Fashionable clothing marks one as a person of status and rank. Americans tend to discount this, as our status and rank is derived from our work and what we do, and so we tend to dress comfortably.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Travel outside of the ring road is not permitted. During holiday seasons, such as Christmas and Ramadan, be more aware of petty crimes and more aggressive pursuit from persons in uniform asking for some form of payment. Some expats have been stopped and shaken down by police, perhaps expecting a payment. Of course this is not the norm, but there are at least five expats I can point to who have experienced this kind of treatment.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria. Embassy health care is good and responsive.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good, but during Harmattan (February to April) the fine dust can aggravate your breathing problems if you already have issues.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
There are the usual snakes and insects.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
There is plenty of sunshine, so remember that Doxycycline increases sensitivity to sunlight. Also, there is some possibility of frustration from the poor driving.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Oddly, the winter months (around December) have no clouds and can be quite hot, but summer has clouds, and so it is cool.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is a large expat community, so schools are abundant.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are many expats, but in Abuja most seem to stay in their own communities. However, if you get out among the English-speaking Nigerian expat community, such as the international choral group, bike group, Hash Hound Harriers, or Tennis people, you can find Abuja to be quite nice.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is an Abuja Horse Club in Jabi Lake which has monthly dinners, and the Abuja Dashers have thrice-weekly meetings for workouts around town. Ultimate Frisbee can be found at one of the international construction life camps. The Christmas Bazaar is sponsored by the German Construction company Berger, and the US Embassy has weekly volleyball and occasional softball games with other embassies often attending.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
That depends on your own situation, but its possible to get out and meet people.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Hard to say.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Outwardly, there are no issues.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Getting out of the city of Abuja. For example, the West African Softball Championships (last held in Dakar) would be ideal to travel to. But try to get out into the country--- the YANKARI game reserve would be my first choice, security permitting. I haven't been there yet, but want to se it.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
I am planning a trip to the top of AZO rock.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are shops at the Hilton and Sheraton Hotels, and people buy Nigerian furniture from a number of vendors. The tailoring is mostly bad and not recommended, but if you do find one, please share him or her. I have been here two years and have not yet found a tailor. There is local rum, and there are many locally-made beverages which are worth a try.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Remember, this is Africa, so it's a bit easier to get to those spots you want see in Europe. I guess I'm reaching a bit.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Car maintenance is an issue, and mechanics are poorly trained. Bring your own anti-freeze and oil filters, and learn to change them yourself. You can buy a car here, but there is no one to check it out, as sometimes you can get a car that has had no maintenance.
The US Embassy is putting in place an impossibly expensive program for using embassy vehicles for "other than official use," charging $1.25 per kilometer. So if you don't have a car you have to pay $20 to go to and from the Embassy (unless you take the daily shuttle which is $2 each way). So EFMs who need to take kids to the medical unit will need to pay a lot (that rate is per person). Because using taxis is not permitted, anyone who needs to get to the embassy is stuck.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. For the most part, the city has most items available, it is easy to get around, and people understand English. There are movie theaters at the local "malls."
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
You can get most items here: odd things like toothpicks and ethnic spices, Miracle Whip, peanut butter, even fresh meats are available.
4. But don't forget your:
The electricity is poor and not reliable. Bring a UPS and your own voltage regulators. The embassy gives you two regulators and two transformers.
Bring golf clubs if you have them. There is an 18-hole golf course here which is passable.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Always travel with your sense of humor.
