Abuja, Nigeria Report of what it's like to live there - 06/25/15
Personal Experiences from Abuja, Nigeria
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, fourth and last post. DRC, Peru, Uruguay.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Southwest of the States. 24+ hours, through London, then Stateside hops to home base.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year and 3 months
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Trailing spouse
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
This is the African post that kills the myth about how good housing is in Africa. Prior to our arrival, 10 housing compounds (3-10 houses each or apartments) were closed for a lot of reasons. Security, rental cost, issues with landlords, repair costs, condition of housing, location. A mega compound has been built on the outskirts of Abuja. 66 housing units; 32 3 bd/2 bath (and WC) apartments (they say, but it more like 2 bd with a study) in two large block buildings and 34 4/5 bd and 3/4 bath townhouses. Known as RT. 66. This idea and housing is a work in process. It took a few years longer than planned to finish (and finish is a loose and relative term), several cost over-runs, communication break-downs between the Mission and OBO and contractors. We are the first generation of RT. 66 occupants and the units look like they have been lived in for years. There is always something that needs to be repaired, replaced, fixed. When it rains, the bathroom windows in the apartments leak, there have been several major water leaks in the units, caused because of poor workmanship. This is the first housing we have had, that did not have any kind of storage or covered parking. Our study is more of a storage room. The 2nd bedroom is that in name only, as it is also used for storage. We have had the bed removed to make more room. Besides, Abuja is not the place where you will get visitors. There is a "pantry" off the kitchen area. But, at first there was no shelving. Mission has now supplied wire racks for the panty. I have bought a few units for my own needs.
RT. 66 is located next door the American International School in Abuja and several kids attend. (See comments below.) RT.66 is also next door to the Mission warehouse. There is a tennis court, basketball court, 2 dog runs (that get little to no use, as the dog owners use the common areas to walk their dogs and allow them to get outside for a few minutes before going back inside for several hours.) This is a popular compound for people with dogs, as there is more outside room than the other places. There is a workout room and a cafe that is open on the weekends. Cafe and workout rooms are managed by the Employee Association. There are two pools in the compound, one normal sized lap pool and the other is a smaller version at the other end of the compound. A lot of folks from the other compounds who don't have a pool, come here to swim.
Power supply in Abuja is poor on its best day. Several times during the day and night, the compound loses city power and the compound has to turn on the generators. Then city power is back and generators are cut off. If the power is out for any length of time, there is no water in the units. After the power changes from city to generator and back, you will have to go around and re-set anything that is not plugged This is a constant routine. You will need surge protectors and a few UPS units.
Commute times can be several minutes to 30 minutes plus. Depending on time of day and traffic.The only thing I can speak to, is that there are varied reports about AISA. Running the range from poor to ok. In the summer months, a lot of the parents take the kids out of Abuja, as there really is not a lot for them to do. Several folks have discussed sending their older kids to boarding schools in Europe or America
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are two KFC places and a Johnny Rockets. As is every thing here, they are costly. US$12 for a milkshake at Rockets. There are several good places to eat but are expensive compared to what you would find in the States. Trip Advisor is a good source of information.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
This is a consumables post. Ship all your favorites. Shopping can be done here but things are pricey and they make not have the brand you prefer.
4. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Malaria country? Some small ants in the housing looking for food or water. Seasonal bee and wasps in some places.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very available and very reasonable. Most if not all Mission folks have at least one part time domestic help. Others may have 3 or 4.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
RT. 66 has a small gym open to Association members. I believe some of the other compounds have equipment. I don't believe any one uses a gym outside of an Embassy building. No idea of costs.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
All of the majors.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is official language. Knowing some of the local language is always good.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Even mission housing and offices are not ADA compliant. Bomb blast doors are heavy and difficult to open. At our last visit, the automatic door opener was not working. There are few sidewalks (which serve more as a place to park than walk), no concern for someone with special needs. None of the public transportation has any. Even some of the nicest paces in the city would be difficult to get around in.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There is a public bus system, but is not approved for Mission employees. There are both licensed and private (read pirate) taxis. None of which are ok'd for use by Mission personnel. Legal taxi cabs are painted green or blue and yellow. The pirates are any color. A way to make a little money is to pick up someone in a private car and give them a lift, in exchange for some money. As is the case in most countries, the taxi drivers are a major reason for the bad traffic. Most of them are not licensed, have little or no driver training, come in from the villages and rent a taxi for the day to make some money. If you have driven before in a Third World country, this is nothing new. But, if it is your first time, good luck and be careful.
Driving here is one step away from a full contact sport. Nigerians drive very aggressively and think they have lost "face" if they allow another car to merge into traffic. Drivers will drive bumper to bumper to prevent someone from entering the traffic lane from a side road. There is a mind set, that the driver has, that they are the only ones on the road and it is all about them. There is little to no respect for any kind of traffic law, law enforcement, common sense or courtesy. The higher in status a driver thinks s/he is, the worse his driving is. Because Abuja is the Federal capital city, there are lot of convoys of high ranking military and elected officals who believe they have right of way everywhere and all the time.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
This is dependent on your needs and what your plans are. You can do most everything with a small SUV or sedan. Something you wouldn't mind getting a bump or two. There are a few vehicles for sale in the DIP crowd, or you can buy locally. 4WD is not necessary unless you are planning to travel the back roads in the country, and you can only do that with RSO permission and a police escort with armored van.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
High speed? No, not here. But, there is internet access provider by several start-ups. Cost? 17500 nigra a month(US$88). Quality depends on location and does vary among the providers.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Mission issues phone to the employee. EFM will have to find their own. Like the internet, there are several providers that have a "pay as you go" plan. There vendors everywhere to buy the pre-paid cards
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine needed. Quality care is not available, some supplies can be found. Because of the compound living, it would be nice if all dogs had some kind of training before arrival.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Yes, this is Nigeria, a developing third country in need of any help it can get. And they do like free help.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business wear in the work place and casual in the public eye. Nigerians like to dress up in the native wear.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Very much so! FACT training is required for both employee and EFM prior to arrival. There is a heavy military and police presence. Abuja is the capital city of Nigeria. Boko Haram is a major security issue in the northeast of the country. There are killings done by the herdsman over grazing/farming issues, religion, crimes, etc. Most of it is not directed at Americans, but there have been kidnappings of business men (usually European), oil industry people, missionary folks. There are and always will be crimes of opportunity; pick-pocket, strong arm, smash and grab, etc. There was a police chase yesterday near the Embassy, police firing shots at armed robbers. We rarely go out at night (driving is bad enough in the daylight), we go to known and approved locations, travel in groups, don't flash cameras, money or jewelry.
Because this concern, we are very limited on where we can go or where we wish to go.
Nigeria (Security threat level - 5): On 24 June 2015, armed assailants in speedboats attacked a construction site in the Ogbia local area of Bayelsa state in southern Nigeria, killing two police officers and kidnapping two Lebanese nationals. Bayelsa state police officials stated that a large-scale manhunt was launched to rescue the workers. Three expatriate workers were kidnapped from the same area in November 2014. Kidnappings are common in the Niger Delta region, and foreign workers are frequently targeted, as the perpetrators believe that such hostages can bring larger ransoms.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Plenty! Don't drink the water; wash everything before you prepare food; be aware of public urination and defecation (every body of water seems like an open sewer); there is never ending smoke from burning trash piles; trash and garbage everywhere; and there's heavy dust in the air during Harmattan season. This is a malaria post. There have been a few cases of Mission employees getting malaria, even if they are taking the preventive meds. There is always the danger of Ebola. The embassy has a Med Unit, but anything that requires any real attention will be sent to London. There are clinics here, but are advised to avoid, unless it is an emergency.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
The nasty air year round and the dust during Harmattan.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and hotter. Lots of rain in the season and very dry and dusty the rest of the year. Everyone gets a dry cough during the dusty season
Schools & Children:
1. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Some people have their kids signed up for swimming, gym, horse backing riding, tennis, etc. There is one full sized, private (memberships are available) 18 hole golf course and one 18 pitch and putt. A second 18 course has opened outside of our safe travel zone. So, it is not ok'd by RSO to go there unless you go in an Embassy vehicle and police escort.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Good sized. Morale depends on so many things but overall, it is not the best I have seen. A lot of people feel that the upper management people don't seem to care about them. People are just doing there time before the next posting.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Dinner with friends, leaving Abuja for R&R, BBQ in the compounds, play golf.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
No different than for familes.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Can't speak to this subject. I do know that there are LGBT employees here, but it is kept quiet. Nigeria is a very religious country. About 50/50 Christian and Muslim.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Read the news. Boko Haram is a major security issue in the northeast of the country. There are killings done by the herdsman over grazing/farming issues, religion, crimes, etc. There are kidnappings for ransom of foreigners. There are still deep seated tribal prejudices among themselves.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Leaving on R&R or long weekends, have met some good people.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Nope. Everything worth seeing will be done in the first six months of being here. Then the newness wears off and you will be counting the days to the next chance you can leave Abuja for somewhere else.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Local art and crafts.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
None
10. Can you save money?
Yes/no. If you spend it all on travel getting out of Abuja at every chance or spending it all on comfort shopping on the internet. If you are two income, no kids, then yes. Most people will not lose money here, but they might not leave with much more.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How poor the housing was going to be, the driving, the limits on our movements.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Not in this life time. This has not been my favorite posting; I am glad to be finished and put it all behind me.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expections of customer service, of things working or getting finished, reasonable driving, expectations of anything you might have heard about Africa.
4. But don't forget your:
Thick skin, patience, thoughts about wandering the city or country to explore. And more patience.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
7. Do you have any other comments?
This is a post where people coming in needs to do so with their eyes wide open.
