Antananarivo, Madagascar Report of what it's like to live there - 12/08/08
Personal Experiences from Antananarivo, Madagascar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Maputo, Gabarone, Maseru, Dar es Salaam, Kampala, Monrovia, and Ouagadougou.
2. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Travelling with spouse.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most expat families live in a standalone house, not commune. The main suburb for English expats (including American) is Ivandry. The French and Mauritian families generally are spread anywhere in the city. Traffic is not bad, except in the centre city and around an area called Devil's Triangle (road leading North of city towards COT country club). Roads are really bad though, especially in the rainy season. Children and pedestrians are everywhere.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Availability good - mostly all French imports. South African supermarket chain of Shoprite there, so south african products available too. Fresh products availability good, but cleanliness limited. Relative cost...hmmm...this is difficult since I don't have a country base/index to compare it to. Fruit and veg cheap. Lets say my monthly grocery bill (excluding household cleaning supplies and alcholic beverages) came to about around 2,000 euros. Please bard in mind that we are a family of 3, and lived off imported goods, hardly shopped at the local markets (much cheaper) and only bought imported dairy products.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I can't think of anything that I missed having.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No real good restaurants that I can mention, except La Varangue, Palladios (consistent food quality and service, italian place)
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
By postal service, snail mail. Have sent to Europe, South Africa and England. All arrived - but only sent mail, no packages.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Good. Househelp around 100 Euros a month. The american families tend to pay more than the francophone families - maybe due to the fact that the help speaks English.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are ATMs. They are not always operational. In the 2 years of having a card, the 6 times I tried to withdraw, I was successful twice. Credit cards are accepted, mainly VISA .Cash is king.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. Not sure which denominations, but there is a weekly ENGLISH catholic service.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Not sure since it was provided for us.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French would be good. Not much english around at all. Local language, Malagasy, a real bonus on the markets, touring, etc, but French would be better.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot. There are hardly any facilities for physical disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
The right hand side. Or whatever side there is nothing 'coming at you', like livestock, trucks, etc. Or wherever there is a road. Joking, but a reality especially after leaving the city's outskirts.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Took local taxis (called a Taxibe in city and Taxibrousse outside city) and cabs. Both safe. The Taxibe's very crowded and not really roadworthy by western standards.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The less computerized the better - the more mechanical the better. Toyota landcruiser, Hilux/pickup, Mitsubishi, Nissan Patrol, 4x4s etc.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It is available but didn't find it high speed? Maybe a few seconds faster than dialup modems...
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
As above and watch your phone - nice item to swipe and a common occurence in shops, restaurants,on the street, etc.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Mobile phone is good. Landline company Telma not bad either though. Mobile companies Orange and Zain (ex Celtel) both good and expensive.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes. Cost of living rather high though, not sure the salary would provide for standard of living?
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate to bad - actually Antananarivo was voted as the 3rd dirtiest city in a 2008 Forbes Report. The litter and sanitation are bad.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really, except for pickpocketing. House breakins and carjackings are rare to none.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria is not common (and most say not found) in the capital of Antananarivo, but a big problem on the coasts. Typhoid cases are during every rain season. Cholera cases in the rainy season. Pollution is bad and there is a general lack of good hygiene.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I have only had experience with the preschools. There is a good French International School and an American School. The French School has the better reputation, but have not had experience with it.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
None really that I know of.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are good private preschools available, francophone and anglophone. Jaques Prevert, Kids Academy and the American International School (has a nursery section). I used Jaques Prevert and found it good, although travel time is terrible to get there. Then I used Kids Academy (new school very close to our home) and found it really good too.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large, but couldn't give you numbers or percentages.
2. Morale among expats:
Good. Easier among families, since a lot in common.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Good. Pubs, restaurants, nightclubs, country clubs, etc.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Both. There are not many "quick" weekend getaways though due to lack of roads, but a lot to do.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, I saw that they were left alone and could continue as they wished.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not that I saw. Most of the Malagasy that I encountered told me that they preferred to work for non-Indian families due to bad treatment and pay, but I cannot prove this.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Go Karting, Off road biking, cycling, rainforests (walks), quad bikes, flying (there is an aeroclub there to hire aircraft from), Country clubs - horse riding, swimming and tennis mainly. Also see that river rafting/kayaking picking up there. Exploring the Hauteville area of Tana is fantastic with all its stairways. The birdpark at Tsarasaotra (a RAMSAR site) is beautiful.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Curios, gemstones, Wooden (but then you are probably supporting deforestation!), Rafia products like baskets, etc.
9. Can you save money?
That depends on your standard of living, but yes, it's really possible.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
3. But don't forget your:
Rainboots, coat and umbrella for the rainy season...sunblock and insect repellent.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Bradt guide was accurate. Birding guide. If you can, bring a butterfly guide. There are also over 1,000 species of orchids, so if you have a guide - else buy limited guides (in french and Malagasy) in country.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Bradt guide was accurate. Birding guide. If you can, bring a butterfly guide. There are also over 1,000 species of orchids, so if you have a guide - else buy limited guides (in french and Malagasy) in country.
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
Have fun and don't try to rush! Also, the Malagasy usually didn't respond well to anger/shouting - they see it as a weakness.
