Antananarivo, Madagascar Report of what it's like to live there - 03/02/17
Personal Experiences from Antananarivo, Madagascar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Third expatriate experience, all others in sub-Saharan Africa.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
A brutal 30 hours to the east coast of the US, via CDG Paris.
3. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We live in the SIDI apartments in Ivandry. Our 3-bedroom apartment is frankly the nicest house we've ever lived in, including the US. Modern finishes and amenities, beautiful porches/backyards, nice gardens, good security, utilities included. I'd recommend it if your budget allows. The only unfortunate thing is that the gym/pool isn't included, and it's actually quite expensive (think DC/New York membership prices).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
If you're willing to compromise on brand and a little bit on quality, you can find almost everything in Antananarivo with a few exceptions. Occasionally stuff will be in stock for brief periods only - the good cheddar cheese, certain beers, flour tortillas, etc. But overall, the grocery shopping here is pretty good. Imported stuff is similar to US prices; anything local (meat, fruit, vegetables, some staples) is dirt cheap.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We shipped stuff that's typically not available in Africa: refried beans, jalapenos, BBQ sauce, good beer, salsa, dill pickles, black olives, etc. Also toiletries where we're brand-sensitive: face wash, shampoo, lotion, etc.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The restaurants here are pretty good and very inexpensive. There's a lot of good French/European food, some Italian, and several good Asian (Korean, Thai, Chinese) places. Lots of pizza. Takeout is neighborhood specific -- for us in Ivandry, it's pizza and Korean food, though I assume you could also get takeout from the Chinese and Middle Eastern places.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Even after 6 years in sub-Saharan Africa, I'd never experienced mosquitoes like the ones here, which come out in huge swarms at dusk. Very few during the day or at night, but there's about 1.5 hours in the evening where I avoid being outside during the mosquito season. Also, oddly, I have found the mosquitoes to be worse during the dry season than during the wet season. Maybe I'm crazy.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through the US embassy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
In our experience, household help is relatively highly-skilled and inexpensive. Nannies, drivers, and housekeepers all earn between about $100 and $200 per month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are quite a few private gyms and also yoga studios around Tana. I can't comment on quality/price.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We use credit cards at the grocery stores. Local ATMs are safe to use, but the maximum you can withdraw in any single transaction is 400.000 MGA (about $120), so be sure your bank won't charge you exorbitant transaction fees.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French is pretty useful for restaurants, taxis, etc. and of course absolutely necessary professionally. Malagasy wins you lots of points, even if only greetings. Some folks get by on just English.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local taxis are very small and pretty uncomfortable for tall people. They don't have seat belts and frequently carry water bottles full of gas in the trunk. However, in my experience they're safe so long as you don't pull out your cell phone near an open window. You can get most places in Tana for less than $6.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I'd go with a small SUV - something with high clearance for the potholes, but small enough to easily maneuver/park in Tana.
Traffic in Tana can be a nightmare, especially during the rainy season. A few times a year, your 45-minute commute may take 3-4 hours in the evening. Don't get in the car unless you pee first. Bring a book. Be patient.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, Telma offers fiber that gets us about 3 megs to the US. Usually good enough to stream standard definition TV/movies. Infrequent outages but be prepared for them anyway... get a backup 3G router from Orange.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring an unlocked phone and get a local SIM.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Local salary scales are very, very low by US standards. Spouses who work on the local market work for international NGOs who pay international salaries. Very few US Embassy spouses work on the local market; most take jobs at the Embassy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Lots of folks volunteer at orphanages or do arts and crafts with local kids.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
In my experience, dress here is less formal than in most of mainland Africa. For work, business casual is typical except for important meetings or high level officials/representatives. At the Embassy, many folks wear suits, but this is atypical for Madagascar.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Just petty theft in and around town.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
I wouldn't want to have a medical emergency here. Basically all complex cases require medical evacuation. Some simple cases become complex due to treatment received locally.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Not terrible for a developing-country capital city. Wood burning and brick-making in the cold season may affect some people. Diesel fumes while sitting in traffic.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather in Tana is beautiful; rarely too hot and rarely too cold. The sun is pretty intense year-round, though, so be sure to bring sunscreen.
Expat Life:
1. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of dinners and get-togethers at people's houses in the evenings and on weekends. Hanging out by a pool. Meeting up at bars and restaurants. Running and walking groups, including an active Hash. Decent nightlife, or so I've heard. Lots of group day trips or weekend trips to places around Tana -- Andasibe, Ampefy, Mantasoa, etc.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's definitely a great post for families with kids... there seems be a lot going on for kids 4 - 13(ish?). But I wouldn't rule it out as a couple or single, there's really a lot to do here if you're open to exploring.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Better than many African cities... the Malagasy are generally a live-and-let-live people.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Getting out of Tana and seeing the rest of Madagascar is essential. You can go in any direction - north, east, west, south - and have a wonderful trip. I would highly recommend getting off the beaten track and avoiding the big resorts.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
We love going out to Ferme d'Ivato (an organic farm) on Sundays for a long lunch and a walk around the farm. Also, there's a local drag racing culture that we happened upon one weekend out in the country... day-long races at an old airfield outside of Tana. Lots of fun.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes - people buy a ton of souvenirs/gifts here. Gems and handmade jewelry; stones, fossils, and petrified wood; cashmere; baskets and raffia items; wood carvings and furniture; etc.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
A jumping off point to the rest of the country. And really, Tana itself is a beautiful town... great vistas up on the hills.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
We had not anticipated how difficult it would be to get to really get to know Malagasy people... much harder than other countries we have lived. People are very friendly and welcoming, but also quite reserved. I think sports (soccer, basketball, rugby) would be the best entry point, if I could do it over again.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. Wish we could stay longer.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Disney-inspired romanticism of a tropical island paradise (the closest rainforest is a 3 hour drive and the ocean is 6 hours away... Tana is a burgeoning developing-country capital in the mountains)
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, hiking shoes, and some $$$ savings for airplane tickets around the island.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
BBC did a great three-part series on the wildlife of Madagascar that's worth checking out.
