Milan, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 06/13/10
Personal Experiences from Milan, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Praia, Cape Verde, Rio de Janiero and Sao Paulo, Brazil. Several other Latin American cities for shorter periods of time.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East Coast. Direct flights to New York/Newark. Otherwise, connections through Rome or other major European cities.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Rent is VERY expensive in Milan. Fortunately, USG employees have their housing provided for them. All employees live in apartments. Some are nicer than others, but all are more than adequate. I had a terrific apartment with an unexpectedly large kitchen and lots of storage space (unusual for Italy). Most USG apartments had more storage than the Italian norm. Most USG employees had a walking commute of 10 minutes or less. A few families lived farther from the consulate, but still in the center of the city. They often used public transportation to get to work.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Milan is one of the most expensive cities in world. But fortunately, wine, cheese and prosciutto are much less expensive than in the US. Selection of household goods is more limited than in the US. There are large, American style supermarkets and warehouse stores in the suburbs, but within the city they tend to be smaller and more expensive. For those without a car, one large grocery chain had a very good on-line delivery service with a reasonable fee.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
USG employees can shop at the military commissaries, but they are a day trip. Preferred brands, household items and some ethnic food ingredients can be hard to find or very expensive.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
This is Italy. Italians live to eat. If you are looking for "fast food," go somewhere else.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nothing of note.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. Italian postal system can be used if need be.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Expensive and hit or miss in quality. Mostly third-country nationals and English/Italian skills were often weak.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, although very expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I used them everywhere. At some stores and restaurants US debit cards won't work, but credit cards will.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. I don't remember all of them but they are listed in the English language newspaper published monthly and on the website.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
I used Sky for television service. I had a special package with extra movie and sport channels and paid about 60 Euro a month.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by with just English, but you won't have much fun. I am sure that part of why I had such a wonderful experience is because of my language skills and ability to communicate with locals.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Substantial. Many buildings are old and do not have elevators or ramps. Most metro stations do not have escalators or elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are reasonable. Public transportation is fantastic except that the metro closes quite early. All safe, reliable and inexpensive. Strikes are frequent but well-publicized and usually take place outside of rush hour.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Anything goes. But, Italian parking spaces are TINY, so be prepared to get creative. Parts and maintenance are expensive. I didn't have a car and was fine.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Telecom Italia and Fastweb are the two most widely used service. I paid about 70 Euro a month for unlimited service with Fastweb. However, I had several billing issues with them and the customer service is terrible.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everyone has one. Both pre-pay and contracts are available. More expensive than in the US but not unreasonable.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some. Speaking Italian is a must. However, you can always do private English tutoring.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Milan is one of the world's fashion capitals. People take pride in their clothing and never look messy or sloppy. Jeans and t-shirts are frowned upon.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Some petty crime in Milan at high tourist areas such as the Duomo or Centrale train station. However, very rarely does it get violent.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Excellent at private clinics. Most doctors at private clinics speak English.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Overall it is moderate, but there are certain times of year when it gets unhealthy.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather isn't that bad. Similar to Washington D.C. Moderate in the winter, but quite warm in the summer. Of course, one can always escape to the nearby mountains or lakes for relief.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I did not have children, but I heard mixed reviews about the American School of Milan. One of the biggest complaints I heard was that it is located quite far from the city and was not easily reached by public transportation.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very large, but can be disjointed at times.
2. Morale among expats:
I chose to hang out with positive people, but I know some folks where unhappy there. Milan is what you make it and I had a wonderful time.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Football, restaurants, pubs, bars, clubs, concerts.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
A wonderful city for all! Families might have a harder time just because it is so expensive.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I believe it is.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
African-American friends faced fairly blatant discrimination in many situations. The Milanese tend to be a bit more closed and reserved than their southern brethren particularly to foreigners. However, once you break the initial ice, they are warm and inviting. The more Italian you speak, the better off you will be.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Weekly farmers' markets. Wine tasting. Walking around and enjoying the people and window shopping. Stopping at outdoor cafes for coffee or a glass of wine. FOOTBALL!
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Football at San Siro, eat, La Scala, Duomo, Parco Sempione, people watching, window shopping, farmers' markets, wine tastings, travel, concerts, etc.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Wine, food, pottery, shoes and other leather goods, football tickets, opera, travel.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Touring, travel to other Italian/European cities. The culture, especially the food, is amazing.
11. Can you save money?
No.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
In a heartbeat.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Preconceptions of Italians based on the Godfather films, ratty t-shirts, American coffee pots.
3. But don't forget your:
Wine glasses, appetite, camera, caffeine addiction.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Yes, Milan is not Rome, but that's why I love it. If you are going to Italy for work, Milan is the place to be. For the most part, the city functions very well. You are much more able to live as a local in Milan than you can in Rome where you are treated as a tourist at every turn.
