Florence, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 08/02/15
Personal Experiences from Florence, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Third expat experience; previous lived in Czech Republic and Equatorial Guinea.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
We call the Washington, D.C., area home. It's a 12-hour trip.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. government
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Consulate housing: apartments.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local groceries have excellent produce and most of whatever else you're looking for. Prices for produce are similar to the U.S., while other products tend to be higher. Consulate and military personnel have access to the commissary at the nearby army base.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
You can get everything on the local market or at one of the US military bases in country.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's and Burger King do exist in Florence...but there are limitless other options. Italian joints range from 10 euro (US$12) for a fixed lunch meal to US$50 and upwards for dinner. One can eat quite well for under US$25.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Consulate housing sits right next to the Arno river, so the area does have a lot of mosquitoes. Keeping the doors and windows closed takes care of the problem for the most part. They do seem to be attracted to our parked car.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Italian mail is notoriously inconsistent and insecure. We use DPO and pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help runs anywhere from 8-12 euro/hour.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The consulate has a small gym.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are abundant and credit cards are widely accepted.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints holds services in Italian with available simultaneous translation.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Given that Florence is a tourist attraction, there seems to be plenty of English being spoken around town. Knowing Italian, of course, helps, especially if you want to get off the beaten path.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
The city is easy to walk around (mostly cobblestone), but if walking is a problem then so would be getting around town. Many streets don't have sidewalks, and where they do exist they are often not adequate for a wheelchair. Driving is not an option because most of downtown is closed to traffic. On the other hand, you can get to wherever you need to go by taxi.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Public transportation is safe and effective, as are taxis. To get almost anywhere you'll want to go from the consulate will cost about US$12 by taxi. A 90-minute bus ticket costs US$1.50.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Most driving you'll do is out of town since there are small grocery stores all over town and it's a walkable city anyway (the main historic area, anyway). Roads are good. Even in town you'll see a broad mix of car sizes, ranging from the omnipresent European economy car to SUVs (mostly BMW X3 or X5). The only time car size matter is when parking as spots are made for small cars.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Good speed for under US$50/month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are a couple of cell phone service providers, mostly comparable. We use pay-as-you-go and it costs 10 euro/month for 200 minutes/200 SMS/2GB of data.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Consulate attire is business casual or business, depending on the occasion. Italians do like to dress up a bit, and they dress for the season, not the weather. Sports coats are often worn even in warmer weather. You will rarely see Italian men wearing shorts in town.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Given its popularity with tourists, Florence also seems to attract an inordinate number of pickpockets and petty criminals who break into parked vehicles. We have not personally fallen victim, but the consular section probably sees an average of four people each day who have either lost or had their passport stolen. This number is around eight in the high tourist season. Like any other city of similar size, there is other crime (including sexual assaults), but they are often related to excessive alcohol consumption and thus largely avoidable.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Florence has one of the best children's hospitals in Italy and another well regarded general hospital.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The sky is almost always an inspiring blue, and the air is clean.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Tuscany seems to be perennially in bloom. If you have allergies elsewhere, you'll probably have them here, too.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Florence is generally comparable to Washington, D.C., though it's typically a few degrees cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Florence rarely gets any snow. In winter it mostly rains.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The Florence International School. I haven't heard any complaints about it other than it's a bit of a jaunt outside of town. There is a school bus that takes kids to school.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
We had our 3-year-old in a preschool for under US$200/month, plus meals. There are several within easy walking distance of the consulate.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The consulate has only three officers, but the expat community includes private-sector businesses (General Electric, Chevron) and many, many Americans who have married into the local community.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Museums, eating, eating, and eating. Food is a national pastime and it seems that is how many people spend their evenings.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
There's so much to do in Florence and beyond, so I would think it would be good for everyone.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
We have found Italians to be warm and welcoming. While there may be lurking problems with racial or gender prejudices, it is the exception not the rule.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We've really enjoyed the easy access to the historical sites downtown. Even with a stroller you can go anywhere in town. A lot of the city center is either pedestrian or semi-pedestrian zone (open only to taxis and business operators). We have explored in country from the Dolomites in the north to the Amalfi Coast in the south, and a lot of the hill towns in Tuscany.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Florence is a gem for art and history lovers, and the food--mostly Italian, of course--is quite good. Florence, I've read, has the best gelato in Italy and I'm inclined to agree based on two years of extensive "field research." Tuscany has lots of wonderful little towns to visit, the coast is just over an hour away and is lined with beaches, you can be almost anywhere in the country in a few hours by train, and don't forget the Italian Alps.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are plentiful local artists who sell affordable art (watercolors and sketches, mainly) on the street and galleries that offer less affordable but beautiful oil works. Ceramics are also very popular.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Florence itself is full of history and art, not to mention gelato. It has a wonderful historic city center that is an easy 15-minute walk from consulate housing. Florence is also located in Tuscany, one of the better known provinces of Italy, and is within a few hours' drive from about two-thirds of the rest of mainland Italy. The city and area offer unlimited exploring opportunities. Great food abounds. Not, however, a good place to save money.
9. Can you save money?
At a cost, so to speak. You'd have to deprive yourself of everything good that Italy has to offer.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Knowing what I know now, I would have come sooner (were it possible). This assignment has been a wonderful experience and we will miss Florence and Italy.
2. But don't forget your:
GPS and Italy guide book. You'll want to get out and explore, so a GPS is really helpful, especially for some of the less known sites.
