Tel Aviv, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 08/19/17
Personal Experiences from Tel Aviv, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I've lived in Mexico, Egypt, India, and South Africa.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
I'm from Middle America, which can be expensive during the wrong season (summer), but usually doesn't involve more than one stop on the east coast, so it's mostly painless.
3. How long have you lived here?
Three years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Worked for U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are two main areas, and a few minor outlying areas, where the bulk of U.S. diplomats reside. If you're downtown, you're between a 5 and 35-minute walk from the Embassy. If you live in Herziliya, the commute time can run north of 30 minutes by car - quite a difference.
Housing tends to run on the smaller size for apartments, but still mammoth in big-city terms (i.e. NYC or DC). One common complaint is storage - it's just not very common to have closets (who needs a coat in Tel Aviv?). Bedrooms can be pretty small. One of the housing pool's main buildings is right on the beach and a five-minute walk from work - this building is a bit older, but you can't beat the location. The other main property is a bit further (15 minutes from work), but more modern and sleek. Most properties downtown are apartments. Most people who live in Herziliya are in good-sized houses.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
One of the wonderful parts of Israel, and especially Tel Aviv, is the variety of fresh produce you can buy throughout the year. Few things will last even a week (maybe root vegetables) as everything seems organic and preservative-free. Almost everything is local. Sure, you can find imported apples and pears, but you'll soon be eating the cheaper, local varieties. You might rue bananas for going brown after two days, or strawberries for coming out only twice a year, but seriously - isn't that how it's supposed to be?
All that said, it's expensive. Particularly if you shop at Tiv Taam or other smaller grocers. But people make do by shopping at the outdoor shuks or one of the huge supermarket chains in the suburbs where you can get deep discounts.
Paper products are a problem. I mean, it's the desert, right? Consider the tree situation. Lots of people ship toilet paper and paper towels from the US through Amazon or Costco or what have you. But you can get bleach, soaps, detergent locally.
American and international products - think peanut butter, cereal, oats, chocolate bars, etc. - are widely available, but again expensive, and most people ship these things from the States.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
If you have DPO through the Embassy, you can ship just about anything to Post using Amazon, Costco, WalMart, whatever.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Street food is popular for lunch. Folks regularly eat falafel, chicken schnitzel, or big salads. Tel Aviv is becoming a food mecca, as "Israeli food" starts to become a globally-recognized and appreciated cuisine. There are tons of restaurants from basic to fancy (though it never gets too fancy, despite what you might think when you see the bill...). You won't be surprised to spend $75 per person regularly at dinner, with maybe one glass of wine. For me, food was one of the great highlights of this tour. I loved every meal.
You can get Asian food, though it's not great. You can get American food, like McDonald's, fast food, burgers, pizza, and the like.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We had ants, but then we securely packaged absolutely everything and the ants went away. Not sure if that is normal, but otherwise we had no problems. If you buy bulk food products, you will not be surprised to find moths or other things have ‘sprouted’ in your lentils or sesame seeds after a few days. We stopped buying anything that couldn’t be boiled, and everything else we bought packaged.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO works really quickly - often times you can get a package from Amazon less than a week after you order it. Pouch is also an option if your DPO address doesn't work for whatever reason, but takes 2-3 weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help was too expensive for our budget.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy no longer has a gym. There are a few options nearby that many frequent (if you don’t mind working out next to your colleagues). Most of the residences have adequate gyms. There are lots of free options along the beach that are regularly occupied with muscley types.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are very easy to use and accepted practically everywhere. ATMs are everywhere, too (bank fees stopped us from using them in favor of cash from the Embassy cashier).
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I had Hebrew and never used it, but I could have if I had tried harder. Many people take language lessons either at the Embassy or in ‘ulpan’ (local language classes) for work or personal use. The vast majority of the countrymen speak at least a little English. You can get away with no Hebrew, though it will be difficult to sort through the 500 yogurts at the supermarket without being able to decipher Hebrew characters (you earn your hardship differential here...).
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Buses are still prohibited. There are vans called “sheruts†that follow similar routes to the buses and pick up passengers at the same stops for about $1.50 a ride, though the routes aren’t easily laid out (you can ask anyone waiting and they’ll help you with which number sherut to use). Taxis are usually safe, though the drivers seem to be the only people in Tel Aviv who have limited English capabilities.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We did fine with a sedan. We did not do research in advance, but luckily found a dealer who specialized in parts for our car, which came in handy a couple times. It was not cheap, but the service was good, professional, and fast.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
40 mbps isn’t unusual for less than $20 a month. The Embassy assisted us in setting it up before we arrived, which was really helpful.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
SIM cards and local service are also inexpensive - maybe $15 a month for unlimited calls/data, as well as free calls to the US and 50 other countries (with a virtual US number).
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
When spouses are permitted jobs (the hiring freeze is ongoing currently), there are lots to choose from in the Embassy - full or part-time. There’s a good scene for those that choose not to work, particularly if you live in Herziliya.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Israel is very informal. The Prime Minister wears suits, but few else. At work, many people forego ties. Local staff wear T-shirts and jeans to work! Men can get away with polos, though most still wear button-downs. Ties are optional, but off-limits by Israeli government edict in the summer. Women have more options for clothes in general, and tend to wear the gamut of options.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
City smarts are required everywhere in the world. Terrorism is real in Israel, and knife attacks have occurred in broad daylight. That said, it’s very low for petty street crime. Lots of people are walking around well after midnight (that’s when all the bars open!) and it does not feel unsafe. Locks and alarms are essential in houses as there have been several reported break-ins.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is decent, though spending a night in a hospital in Israel will inform you why hospitals in the US are so exorbitantly expensive. No one working on Shabbat, for instance (i.e. bring your own water from home because the water faucets are off limits). But you can find doctors, dentists, and specialty care facilities, which the medical unit in the Embassy is happy to help you with. Speaking of, the nurses at the Embassy are roundly adored by the Embassy community.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Save a few days a year, the air quality is wonderful - cool, Mediterranean breezes are a thing, and they are amazing. Seasonal allergies affect most. There are a few bad days a year related to sandstorms. Pollution can get obnoxious during the dry period of the year (March to October), like any city.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It’s perfect weather. Hottest and most humidity in July and August. Perfect weather -- rarely above 85F degrees -- the rest of the year, but warm, so you have to like warm weather. The average winter temps are in the high 60s F and can get into the 50s F at night. It rains periodically throughout the day usually from December to February.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
It’s large. You can easily hide and no one will notice. Or there are lots of different groups to join. Morale seems to be pretty good here, depending if you like your job. For those who don’t, they will find a reason to complain (the commute, the Israeli attitude, the smells). Lots of people try to find a way to extend, though, because it’s a really easy way-of-life. How often do you live next to a white sand beach with perfect weather and great food, really?
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It’s a city. Everyone can find their niche. Non-Jewish singles might have the most to complain about, especially those trying to date.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Great. Very easy to make friends. The expat community is big. The U.S. Embassy corals various LGBT groups together every few years, but they do so locally on their own also. Popular and fun Pride activities. Not a lot of bars, but several roaming weekend dance parties.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We must have visited Jerusalem 40 times. You can never see every nook and interesting cranny. It’s one of the great cities of the world (though I personally wouldn’t want to live there). Probably went to the Dead Sea a dozen times with guests, which is always one of the exciting highlights. Petra is a great weekend trip option, though guests can make a daytrip out of it by hiring a tour company.
There are nearly 100 parks in the Israel National Park system, some of which are no more than a 100 square meters, but highlight some historical moment, battle, site, or vantage. There are dozens of wineries to visit. More secluded beaches all along the coast. Lots of outdoor hiking opportunities. Overnights for camping in wilderness, on the beach, in mud huts in the middle of the desert. Water activities abound - snorkeling and scuba in the Red Sea, kite surfing the Sea of Galilee, yachting from Jaffa. Plus swimming and beach lounging.
Tel Aviv is also a great jumping off point for regional travel. Turkey is about $150 r/t to any number of great locations. Jordan is fairly straightforward (once you navigate the border crossing, which can be a struggle) once you arrive and has tons of historical and religiously significant sites to visit. Cyprus is a $100 flight away and a real hidden gem. There are more expensive, but short, flights to Greece and Egypt. Plus, there are dozens of cities in Europe you can visit for less than $200 if your timing is right. Lots of budget carriers now have stops in Tel Aviv, including RyanAir and EasyJet, but also lots of others that will get you all over Eastern Europe, Scandinavia, and Italy for cheap. Flights to the east coast of the US can be as cheap as $600 r/t if you catch a good deal.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Tel Aviv is not a ‘site’ city - it’s relatively young (only ~100 years), and you go for the beach, food, and nightlife. Restauranting was my favorite local activity, though you can’t do it so often because it’ll break the bank.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Many go to Jerusalem for handicrafts, like Armenian pottery, Judaica, Christian relics, and the like.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Weather, food, beach, laid-back vibe.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Do not expect Europe, because it’s not Europe. The streets can be dirty, there are lots of street cats (and the smells that come with them), the driving can annoy you, and Israelis are often perceived as loud, entitled, rude, unhelpful, difficult, or oblivious. Those things are all superficial, and Israelis really are warm, lovely people. If you know what to expect going in, the minor annoyances probably will bother you much less than if you came here thinking you were moving to a typical European or US city. It’s just similar enough to confuse you into thinking it’s fully Western, but just different enough to make you scratch your head sometimes.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I’m grateful for the experience.
