Dublin, Ireland Report of what it's like to live there - 07/28/16
Personal Experiences from Dublin, Ireland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Vilnius, Lithuania.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Amelia Island, Florida. Direct flight to Dublin from most major cities on the east coast, about 6-7 hours travel time, always arriving early morning.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission, love of cool weather, good beer, good music, great sports and ability to get anywhere in Europe easily and inexpensively.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Nice apartments or town homes for singles and couples or larger town homes or single family homes for families with kids. I have a 10-12 minute cycle to work which is easier in the summer when the kids are off school. Most singles have a 5-15 minute walk in whereas several single family homes are slightly further out. There is good public transportation (Dublin Bus, DART, LUAS) which should be taken advantage of. Traffic can be difficult during rush hours so walking, biking or public transportation is definitely best.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Grocery costs are on a par with the USA. Some items are a little cheaper and others a little more expensive. Virtually everything is available and for those few items that are not there's always www.amazon.com.
There are Tesco, Dunnes Stores, SuperValu, Marks and Spencer everywhere. We order almost all out groceries online with www.tesco.ie and have unlimited deliveries of quantities over 50 Euros, for a fee of 10 Euros per month. Order online and it comes right to your door within a 2 hour window that you specify - love it!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None really.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are plenty of restaurants for every type of taste and budget in and around Dublin and around the diplomatic mission. It's a very pedestrian friendly city and you can't walk more than a block without coming across a store, pub, or restaurant. Most pubs serve nice affordable lunches. Delivery food is very popular and most restaurants participate in delivery via www.just-eat.ie.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Local mail is reliable and safe and faster than DPO if you are in a rush. If you are not in a rush DPO is fine and delivers packages every Thursday.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It varies. Good nannies are hard to come by and are not inexpensive. You will probably pay $10-$15/hour for child-minding. We are currently paying 10 Euros/hour for 34 hours per week but we found someone good and are really happy. Nannies and other home help can be found on www.gumtree.ie. We have a cleaner come in once per week for 2-3 hours and we pay the required rate of about 13.20 Euros/hour through the agency (www.hassle.com).
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small one at the mission and besides that they are all over Dublin. Moderately expensive but lots of personalized programs and those that use them seem very happy. I've never seen the inside of a gym and have no intention of changing that...there are loads of 'local' sports available, especially soccer if you want to join in.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, widely available and generally very safe. We were skimmed once about 4 months ago but CC company caught it and resolved painlessly.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yep...you name it they have it. Dublin is also now home to the largest mosque in Europe.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
The local language is English but the accent can be difficult. Imagine falling out of the sky and landing in south Boston during rush hour...you know everyone is speaking English but you have no idea what anyone is saying. That only lasts a week or two though.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Not really.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, quite affordable and safe. Taxis are a little pricier but not too bad. Great public transportation in general...don't forget daily ferries to Britain and France and Ryanair will almost fly you home from work these days.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Driving lanes and parking spaces are a bit smaller that the USA so don't bring anything you can't park but really there is everything here. Beware there is currently an issue with Clements and others terminating their coverage in Dublin as their underwriter (AIG) is no longer playing ball I believe. If this happens, getting your car insure here will be difficult and expensive. Do not disregard this. No left hand drive imports allowed anymore. US driving record does NT count when applying for insurance here...so in effect you will pay the same rate as a hormone-infested 17 year old, driving a Ferrari and holding an iPhone.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
100 Mbps - fast fast fast, usually comes in a bundle with telephone and internet for $70-$100/month. We use Eircom and have been satisfied with them. Don't forget to claim your VAT back if you are eligible (23%!!).
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Wide variety available and all affordable, we use Eircom also.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine any longer. Vets everywhere and quite good - better than the doctors.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some spouses have found work on the local economy but most will work at a mission. Local salaries are comparable to the USA. There are positions available for those who want them generally.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Generally the same as the USA.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It's a lot safer than Washington DC but like anywhere, if you try hard enough you could find trouble.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Hangovers can be a pain but I generally drink a pint of water before I go to sleep and take three Tylenol, that seems to take care of everything.
There are plenty of doctors, hospitals and clinics available. Hospitals are not as fast as in the USA and you can spend a long time waiting to be seen. US insurance is not accepted up front. Vaccinations seem to be different than in the USA and antibiotics are generally frowned upon and not given with as much freedom as in the USA. Good pediatricians.
There are several VHI Swiftcare Clinics that will take you without an appointment after hours but will lecture you for not seeing your own doctor or for not having one if during regular hours. I have found one private place that is now my go-to place for almost everything - The Blackrock Clinic, private, no waiting, good doctors and nurses.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air is wonderful...you are on a beautiful island in the north Atlantic...the air should be bottled and exported abroad.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
There seems to be a compunction to get a little leprechaun tattoo halfway through your tour...ignore this urge. There is mental health support that visits from London about twice a year.
I will say that this is a great post, but there isn't a lot of camaraderie among mission staff. It could be very difficult for a spouse at home alone who is not working...I have seen this a a few times. Be sure to make friends outside the mission.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very temperate, never too hot, never too cold. Can be grey and rainy, but nowhere near as much as the southwest of the country near Shannon. 80F is a heatwave here, winter may get down to 25F. It's an easy climate and one that I love. It's like Portland Oregon without the hippies.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is an International School of Dublin but hardly anyone uses it. Most mission kids go to St. Andrew's College where the kids of Dublin's rich and famous attend. It's a good school, good academics, with music and sports programs. The junior school follows the International Baccalaureate curriculum. Because of the Irish educational system it would be VERY HARD for someone to transfer in here in their junior or senior year in high school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, they are everywhere and they are expensive. We pay 700-800 Euros/month for 8-3pm for one three year old.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes - there is everything available (with the exception of American football and baseball).
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Quite large but everyone does their own thing. Few if any social events between employees. Everyone is left to their own devices but there is plenty to do if you go out and do it.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
I like to play poker here and there is a nice little scene but it's not for everyone. The bars and live music are ubiquitous...head down to the Temple Bar area and buy a drink...instant friends. There's plenty of cultural, music and sporting events. The Irish are a social race and if you have the personality to suit you will have a great time. Especially singles and couples. I would highly recommend going to a hurling or football game in Croke Park or watching a rugby game at the AVIVA stadium. There is a popular derby game here every year between Leinster (where Dublin is) and Munster a southern province. Apparently it's quite the rivalry and all the locals go hoping to see Munster get beaten, which rarely happens from what I hear.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes for everyone, but easier for singles and couples. Families are spread out as there is no compound and socializing among families requires driving to someone else's house. It always requires planning so you can have house-bound younger kids depending on the neighborhood you are in.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
If you travel up to northern Ireland (Belfast/Derry) beware of the Catholic/Protestant divide. As an expatriate you won't be affected though but beware...especially if you got the leprechaun tattoo that I warned you about earlier.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
West Cork, the Beara Peninsula is magical. What an amazing landscape. Kerry is beautiful too, Ennis in Clare is a lovely little town. Great concerts in the O2 Arena, fantastic sports events, ferry trip to France was fun. Just hanging around in Howth, Dun Laoghaire and Dalkey is a lot of fun on the weekends.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
All the little coastal towns down the Coast...just start driving and take a look. County Cork turned out to be a real find and a great escape, check out Cobh, Youghal, Kinsale, Clonakilty, and Schull. Full of history, color and fun things to do.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
If you work at the mission you get up to 23% VAT back on most purchases...there's plenty to buy if you are inclined.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's a major European Capital, English speaking, it's a major regional and European transportation hub. Easy back and forth to the USA and Europe. It's modern and friendly and there are no pests. They brew Guinness here and the climate is great.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That you can buy a brand new car from a local dealer, get 23% back in VAT and sell the car 3 years later for exactly what you paid for it.
An Irish person will ALWAYS offer to buy the drinks...no matter how much they insist, make sure you buy every second round. It's expected. They will protest, but that it just part of the process...do not think "Gee, these people are really nice and want to pay for everything."
Learn to like tea...it just makes thing easier.
Keep all your receipts...the VAT returns can be huge every month.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Sure...this is a great assignment.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Sun tan lotion..fear of jaywalking.
4. But don't forget your:
Sarcasm...it's the unofficial language. Without it you are missing the true meaning of everything.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
McCarthy's Bar
The Road to McCarthy
Jaywalking With The Irish
6. Do you have any other comments?
It's a wonderful assignment. Don't expect too much socializing with mission personnel. If you have kids, ask to be housed within walking distance of another family with kids the same age.
Ireland is an easy country to love.
