Dublin, Ireland Report of what it's like to live there - 06/08/14
Personal Experiences from Dublin, Ireland
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. London, Paris (non government jobs).
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington D.C. If there are direct flights from IAD, it's 6 hours. Otherwise it's an hour or so to either NYC or BOS, then 5 hours to Dublin.
3. How long have you lived here?
Lived there almost 4 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am a Dublin native (but had been living in the United States and away from Dublin for more than half of my life). My husband is a U.S. citizen working corporate job in Dublin.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We lived in a lovely part of town called Ballsbridge on the South side of the river. The American Embassy was a 2-minute walk from our apartment and we were a 15-minute walk from the city center. We loved living there. We have heard that U.S. Embassy families live in that same neighbourhood and if you're headed there with the Embassy, you will not be disappointed with the neighbourhood, although I can't speak for the actual houses themselves.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You will pay more for groceries, without a doubt. Be sure to sign up for your local supermarket's reward program. We shopped at Tesco mostly and their reward system was great in that it sent you coupon cash so you'd get 5 Euro off your total, etc. But you'll pay more in general. However, there are plenty of Aldi and Lidl grocery stores and their prices are fantastic so take advantage of those as much as you can!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
If we were there with the Embassy, I'd say bring peanut butter (the only peanut butter close to American PB is from Aldi). Ziplock bags & garbage bags aren't as good quality here. Craisins if you like those. If you eat gluten free, like I do, you'll have an excellent selection to choose from (in Ireland, there is a huge amount of people with Coeliac disease). You can get great clothes and shoes here but you'll pay more for them.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Loads of fast food. All your typical American imports - McDonald's, KFC, Burger King, etc. Also, Ireland's answer to fast food burgers - Supermacs. Cost is similar to the States, perhaps a bit more. If you want a burger give the fast food ones a miss and go for one of the excellent gourmet burger joints that have popped up all over the city recently. Tex-Mex and SOCAL Burrito joints have also popped up all over the place (Pablo Picante was our favourite!). Lots of excellent restaurants to suit every palate.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The worst you'll have to deal with are some house flies and small spiders. Really nothing to worry about at all.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We used local post, which is fine but pricey.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available but not cheap.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, plenty of gyms. They're not cheap, but they're not that much more than what you'd pay Stateside.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Lots of ATMs available. In Ireland they use chip cards, which most of Europe uses, but they'll take swipe your debit cards like a credit card no problem.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Plenty of Catholic masses, but there are also Church of Ireland, Methodist, Baptist. There are also some synagogues, temples, and mosques, too.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Everyone (obviously) speaks English so as long as you can understand their accent you'll be fine!
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
In recent years they have made a lot of advances in accommodating those with physical disabilities so I think it would be much more feasible than it used to be. Most places have ramps/elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They are all safe. Buses are affordable, Luas (light rail) and the Dart (innercity train) are all affordable. The intercity/national trains are a little on the pricy side and inevitably you'll have the occasional loud group of "lads" on the way back from a party weekend. However, you can take an intercity bus (like GoBus) and they are very affordable with free wifi and onboard restrooms.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You'll see every type of vehicle on the roads there. In the city you can get away with minivans and SUVs, but in the country if you're driving around you might wish for a smaller car. Gas is also expensive so I'd go for a car with good gas mileage.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. I think we paid about 80 Euro for our TV/internet/phone bundle, and we chose the fastest internet we could get.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring an unlocked phone and buy a sim card there. We had contracts but lots of people do pay-as-you-go. Texting is much more commonly used in Ireland than it is in the States.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, although you'd need a visa unless you're married to an Irish or European passport holder who is working there already.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Plenty...depends on what you prefer to do.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
For work it depends on what you do, but in public people dress much the same as they do in the States...perhaps a bit edgier and not very preppy.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It's a city, so your typical city safety precautions are a good idea. But nothing to be concerned about.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No health concerns. Medical care is good. It's different than the States, as it's a public system, but you can go privately if you are insured. I gave birth there and although it's a different approach to the American system, I received excellent care and labor and delivery were just fine. I would strongly encourage that you go private, however, as you'll be much more comfortable in your surroundings that way. The attention you receive is more individualised, too.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good. In the city obviously you have your usual traffic pollution but it's not really bad. Being right on the water brings that fresh air in. And you can't get better than the Irish country air.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Oh the weather. Well, it does rain (that's why it's so green!). Winters are damp and cold - bring your thermal undies! It gets down to the 30s (F) in the winter, sometimes with a very small smattering of snow and ice. If you're lucky, it can reach the high 70s in the summer but that usually not common or consistent. For the almost 4 years we were there we had lovely weather in April and May and the rest of the summer was a bit of a disappointment weather wise. But don't dismay - sunnier European climes are a short, cheap flight away!
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is an International School in Ballsbridge but I do not know anyone whose children have gone there. The local schools, however, are excellent. In general the standard of education in Ireland is fantastic.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I cannot speak to this, although I'd imagine that there are accommodations in place.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, but very, very expensive.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, lots. Most through schools and the Gaelic Athletic Association runs on neighbourhood clubs, I think.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There is a big ex-pat community in Dublin. You can find groups of Americans who meet up socially and also there is the American Women's Club of Dublin who meet often. Morale is good - most expats love Ireland. You'll also meet tons of Aussies, Kiwis, and Poles.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
You name it, Ireland has it. The Irish are very fond of having "the one" drink after work, but be warned: one beer often turns into a full night out! There are plenty of cinemas around the city and a lively local theatre scene - Dublin does a great job of pulling in shows from London and around Europe.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a great city for everyone - singles, couples, families. We moved here in 2007 as a couple and our social life was busy and vibrant. Then we had a baby and, while things changed a bit, there was still so much for us to do with a child, too. Singles love it here as well.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, definitely. Although officially and politically conservative relative to the rest of Europe, the population is generally very open and welcoming to all.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not really.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
So many highlights. Cultural events in Dublin (concerts, rugby matches, the all-Ireland finals in Gaelic football and hurling) are always a great time. There are some excellent restaurants and the pub culture is fantastic. You're also a short drive from anywhere else in the country - it's such a small space. Northern Ireland is stunning and not to be missed. Cork, Kerry, Galway - all reachable within 4 hours and stunning. There are plenty of holiday homes to rent quite reasonably and it's a lovely weekend away.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There is something for everyone in Dublin. There are some great museums - Croke Park, Kilmainham Gaol, Natural History Museum, National Archives, etc) and art galleries. There is so much to do outdoors - you have Europe's biggest downtown park, Phoenix Park, as well as some other lovely parks scattered throughout the city, all of which have great playgrounds for children. There are also some excellent hikes not to be missed - the Wicklow mountains are a half hour drive away and the views are fantastic. Also, in Dublin don't miss the Book of Kells and the library at Trinity College Dublin - spectacular! There are also lots of walking tours: literary, pub, music - all lots of fun. And the hop on/ hop off tour buses are great as you can hit all the major sites in half a day.
There is a rich and vibrant music scene in Dublin (well, Ireland in general), so if you're hankering for some traditional music in a pub setting you're spoiled for choice, or if your taste is more classical, the National Concert Hall will have plenty of choices for you. The theatre scene in Dublin is very much a live with the Gate and the Abbey Theatres putting on top notch productions multiple times a year (many celebrated actors and actresses got their start on these stages and often return for a season). The Grand Canal Theatre hosts major touring shows from London/Europe so you don't feel like you're missing out.
If you're into sports, Gaelic Football, Rugby, and Hurling are your three huge sports here. Everyone gets really into it and a match at Lansdowne Road (Aviva) or Croke Park are a must! Most of the best Irish soccer players go tot he English premier league, so there is a big social scene around watching English and Scottish soccer in the pubs, even if the Irish soccer league is not well followed.
Restaurants, clubs, and bars abound. Go for afternoon tea at the Shelbourne or for a cocktail in their bar at night (it's the place to see and be seen). Kehoe's on Anne St is a great pub for a pint (plenty of well-known regulars frequent it). If you want to see the Leinster Rugby players pop into Searsons on Upper Baggot Street. If craft beers are your thing, don't miss Against The Grain and (THE SEVERAL) Porterhouse BREWING CO. The Winding Stair has excellent Irish cuisine, and The Pigs Ear (on Kildare Street) had excellent Irish "Comfort" food. I could go on and on...
EVEN A PASSING INTEREST IN IRISH HISTORY IS RICHLY REWARDED AND THERE ARE TONS OF GUIDED TOURS.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Aran sweaters from the West of Ireland. Irish pottery and crafts. Buy some art from the streetside art "galleries" at Merrion Square and St. Stephen's Green. Avoca and Kilkenny Design Centre are great for a wide selection of local crafts, but there are plenty of small shops carrying Irish-made souvenirs. Don't forget your bottle of Irish whiskey, too!
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Plenty of cultural and social events to take advantage of (I'll discuss that later..). Access to the rest of Ireland is very easy via bus, train, or car. Also, Dublin Airport is an excellent hub for visiting the rest of Europe. Ryanair, though the bane of the airline industry in my opinion, offers dirt cheap flights to most major Euro destinations (but pay attention to their rules and fees). Just practice packing extremely light and you'll be fine. The people are lovely and their famous pub culture does, in fact, exist, but stay away from the more touristy areas (ahem, Temple Bar) and find your "local" one.
10. Can you save money?
It will be hard to save money but if you don't travel and shop wisely, you might be able to.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Things you might want to consider: You don't really need a car. We lived here for almost 4 years without one. The only times we wished we had one was to do big grocery shops at some of the bigger supermarkets outside of the city center and to take weekend trips, but we rented cars for those and it worked out just fine. We walked or took the bus/train everywhere. Buy/bring all your bedding from them States as the quality will be better. Also, talking and complaining about the weather is a national pastime :-). My husband also felt that the apparent pessimism of the people there can be quite jarring, especially given how great life in Dublin really can be.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely - we miss it every day.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Vast summer wardrobe, unless you plan to travel. Giant SUVs, unless you love to pay through the nose for gas. Expectations of lots and lots of sun. Don't get me wrong, Ireland has sunny days and when it does there's nowhere you'd rather be, but it doesn't have a reputation for rain for nothing.
4. But don't forget your:
Hiking boots, umbrella and raincoat, camera, and positive attitude (if you tend to get down after one too many rainy days).
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Once
The Commitments
Michael Collins
In Bruges
Circle of Friends
The Quiet Man
Father Ted: The Definitive Collection
And if you like Game of Thrones, those lush green locations are all shot in Northern Ireland, a short drive North of Dublin.
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Dubliners (Dover Thrift Editions)
Slow Dublin (Slow Guides)
Circle of Friends
