Erbil, Iraq Report of what it's like to live there - 04/23/18
Personal Experiences from Erbil, Iraq
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I have lived in several other cities in the region and around the world.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Using the recently reopened Erbil International Airport the flight should be one-connection before you get to DC 14 hours later. With the airport closed (Baghdad could close it at will for no reason) it's a multi-stop trip that takes two days to and from Dulles.
3. How long have you lived here?
About nine months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The compound is composed of houses that have been divided into smaller units. Nearly everyone has to have roommates, but at least at this time you get your own bedroom. Sharing a bathroom, living room, and kitchen is normal. You will likely have two roommates but consider yourself lucky if you have only one. Senior people are the only ones who get their own place. They used to give you your own place if you're a section head or here for two years, but that's no longer the case.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Relatively expensive. Western goods are expensive, and so are meat, veggies and fruits. There are random runs to the stores that only a handful of people can get on each week where you can get groceries; otherwise you can't get much. The fruit and veggie guy comes on the compound three times a week and charges exorbitant rates for his stuff. There are three tiny stores on the compound but they don't carry meat (that's not expired) or anything perishable. You're expected to buy prepared foods from the three on-compound restaurants with the $52/day you get.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Anything you can't get via DPO or pouch. Stuff like salsa, olive oil, or other liquids that come in large containers and don't travel well.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are three restaurants on the compound and you can get a lot of stuff delivered. If you're a political or economics officer, or USAID, you get to go out a lot for meetings at restaurants (there are many and are reputed to be great), but most people are limited to what's on the compound or to ordering out. The food options are pretty limited when it comes to healthy food. Most of it is fried or starch-heavy, but it's cheap.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are mosquitoes and ants, but nothing major.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch and DPO. DPO is running at about six weeks delay now, but it may speed back up if you're lucky to be here for that.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There are none available. There are cleaners on the compound but they do a marginal job at best. You're better off cleaning your own place if you can.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a large well equipped gym on the compound open 24 hours and free. It has everything you can think of to get you in shape (there are few recreational opportunities) during your tour.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There is one ATM on compound but it charges you $3 per transaction, limited to $200 per withdrawal. No one else takes credit cards and you don't want to use them anyway. Get cash from the cashier (limited to $500/week) for all your spending needs.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is nothing on the compound unless someone gets people here as they've done here and there.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
There is a Kurdish tutor, but you won't need Kurdish or Arabic for daily life.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. You have to be able to get in and out of armored vehicles and most of the buildings don't look ADA compliant.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
You're not allowed to use them. You'll have a bodyguard team to take you where you need to go.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You're not allowed to bring a car.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
You get Internet through mobile hotspots. The cost is about $35/month for unlimited Internet, and it's fast enough to stream Netflix and video chat with people.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You get issued a phone. You can use T-Mobile international for $50/month and you get 2G speeds in Iraq.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
You're not allowed to bring pets to Erbil, but there will be plenty of stray cats to keep you company.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are about five jobs for EFMs on the compound and they have to have them before they arrive. There is nothing else available and EFMs can't work off compound.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
You can help with events on compound.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual for some, but relaxed casual is the norm. You rarely have to dress up, but do bring a couple of formal dress outfits for special occasions like visiting VIPs or big events.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not on the compound. There are tons of layers, people, and systems in place to keep everyone safe. It restricts your life outside the compound, but it's still Iraq and you wouldn't get any danger pay if you could go out for a cup of coffee when you want to.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
You have to have an Iraq Class One medical clearance. Bring meds with you (mail is very slow), and don't plan to get sick here. Because you get three R&Rs for a year tour you should plan to do medical stuff then.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The weather is very good most of the year. It will get dusty, dry, or humid depending on the season.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Nothing significant. There isn't enough dust or pollen to cause most people problems.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
You need an Iraq Class One medical, and I don't think one should be here under all this stress if there are current mental health issues.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are four seasons unlike Baghdad and Basrah. So it will get rainy, cold, and very hot in the summer. Bring clothes for every season, you will get to wear them.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
You cannot bring kids with you.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The compound isn't that big and most people have their own small cliques. Morale is generally good but management does nothing to make things better, you pretty much have to manage your own morale.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
All socializing is on compound unless you're political/economics/USAID when you can get off compound for "business." You can easily bring guests on the compound and have social events.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's a small compound. It's usually easier for couples living here than for singles since they get their own house. While you can socialize with people you might be unlucky and find no one to do that with, and it gets to be hard over time because of the social isolation.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, on compound.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
None on the compound.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The money is great! The work is interesting but continuous (you're expected to work seven days a week). You can afford to travel if you want, but most will just go back to visit family safehavened somewhere or in the U.S.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
You have to be creative. There is not much to do on the compound. There are a handful of social events like trivia night and sports, but it will get boring so a lot of people just work all the time.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Sometimes you get artisans coming on the compound to sell goods, but because of the threat you can't go out to shop for stuff.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The money. You can save a ton of money.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
That you live in a small space and you shouldn't bring much UAB. You don't have any storage space in your room.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, it's tough working here but it's much nicer than Baghdad or Basrah.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
UAB. You can really live out of two suitcases here.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor. The small compound lifestyle and seven day work weeks are not easy, and you need to pace yourself and don't let the little things fester or you'll be miserable.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
A History of Iraq by Tripp.
