Erbil, Iraq Report of what it's like to live there - 02/20/16
Personal Experiences from Erbil, Iraq
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, two previous assignments in the Middle East and previously lived in Europe as a student.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC is a generally a two day journey (due to flight connections) via Vienna, Austria.
3. How long have you lived here?
7 months with another 5 months to go in this assignment.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. State Department direct-hire (diplomat).
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Villas are separated into apartments with 2-4 bedrooms each. Section Chiefs and tandem couples receive their own apartments. Others share living spaces and kitchens but have their own bedrooms. The Housing office keeps the ratio to two people per shared bathroom unless there are extenuating circumstances.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are three small shops on compound that sell basic grocery items, including alcohol, cheese, and frozen meats. Security situation permitted, there are weekly runs to the grocery stores for limited numbers of staff. It is best to use your consumables shipment very wisely.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More consumables. I did not ship enough spices, canned tomato products, tortilla chips, quinoa, or Trader Joes products. Only basic goods are available on compound.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are two restaurants on compound. One is a higher-end facility with standard American fare. The other is a sandwich and pizza shop that is most popular for take-away lunches.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ugh. Lots of Mosquitoes, ants, roaches and occasional termites. However, the roving street cats take care of the larger vermin.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. All free. There is a cardio room and a weight room on compound. Both are very popular, especially in the mornings and evenings. It can sometimes be difficult to find a free treadmill during peak hours. An outside loop around the compound is approximately one kilometer.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There is an ATM on compound and the Class B cashier will cash checks. U.S. Dollars are the currency of choice on compound.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are monthly non-denominational church services.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None for life on compound. It is very helpful for interactions with contacts within the community.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. There are tons of uneven roads, rough stairs, and slick sidewalks. Moreover, Class One clearances are required.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
There are two internet options. One is a Fastlink service that allows for a limited amount of downloads- 64 gb for $69.00. Most people on compound choose this option because it provides fast downloads. I spend approximately $150 on Fastlink per month. The other service allows for unlimited monthly downloads, but is painfully slow (will not even support Skype).
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Your cell phone and blackberry will be issued upon arrival.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual in most offices. Gym attire on weekends.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
See the RSO reports, travel warning, and watch the news (ISIS, anyone?).
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Class One medical clearances are mandatory, for good reason. It is difficult to receive approval to leave the compound for medical consultations in the community. Major problems are medevac'd quickly to London.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality in Erbil is lovely most of the year. However, dust storms in the spring and really hot, muggy days in the summer make things uncomfortable.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
None.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot, muggy and nasty from May until September. Really nice from October to March. And borderline in April (hot, but tolerable). The winters can be rainy and cold. The houses are not insulated so it often feels colder than reality in the winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
N/A, this is an unaccompanied assignment.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small but very tightly-knit. Most people knew what to except before they signed onto this assignment. The ones that keep things in perspective have a better assignment. The promise of great EERs and linked assignments to lovely places in EUR and EAP make people happy. R&Rs are also helpful reminders of easier assignments to come.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Movie nights, monthly poker tournaments, exercise classes, 5ks, weekly trivia nights, holiday parties, and shuffleboard tournaments keep people entertained.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
No families here. Spouses are allowed to come to Post if they receive an EFM assignment (there are 5 positions available at present- CLO, Housing, Consular Associate, Facilities Manager, POLMIL). Couples generally have a better time at Post than singles. There is very little dating here due to the high ratio of men to women.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, if you are referring to the compound. However, GLBT activists in Iraq are often persecuted or killed.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
None on compound.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
R&Rs. We have been able to really stretch the US$3500 per R&R allowance to travel all throughout Europe, the Caribbean, and within the U.S. People at Post have also taken Safaris, traveled to Iceland, scuba dove in the Maldives, etc. you name it. Foreign Service employees also receive 20 admin days for use on R&Rs, which helps save your A/L.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The staff that is allowed to depart the compound for official events often attend meetings at historical buildings, beautiful churches, and mosques.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
None.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Money! The financial benefits of this assignment are great (danger pay, differential, language pay, an additional differential for tenured employees or vast amounts of overtime for untenured employees, and a $52 a day benefit for food purchases). Enough to both put lots of money into savings and retirement AND to enjoy fantastic R&Rs. Foreign Service personnel assigned here for one year get 3 R&Rs that generally last 2-3 weeks each.
10. Can you save money?
Yes, absolutely! Best part of this assignment.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known how little of the city and region I would actually see on this assignment.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. It has been good for my career and wallet.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Good wardrobe. The dry-cleaners reduce the life-span of most clothing items.
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor. Gym clothes and tennis shoes. Coffee press. Good attitude.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
7. Do you have any other comments?
Please do not enter into this Post environment without doing your research first. It is not a normal job or lifestyle.
