Port Au Prince, Haiti Report of what it's like to live there - 08/04/18
Personal Experiences from Port Au Prince, Haiti
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I've also lived in Frankfurt and Amman.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC.
3. How long have you lived here?
Over one year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing for the mission varies widely, but "eventually" we will all live in one of two compounds near the US Embassy. Eventually is in quotes because this compound was supposed to be finished in 2014.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are expensive, but most things are available. Be prepared, you will pay 3x the market price for them.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More laundry detergent, specialty sauces and spices, cleaning items and products.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Haiti does not have a restaurant culture. So the restaurants that exist cater to foreigners or the elite. A meal is US prices or more, and quality varies widely. Delivery is an option but you do so by WhatsApp.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Typical Caribbean housing issues, ants, geckos, spiders.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO & pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help ranges between US$20-30 per day, and quality varies widely.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Very few, and those that exist are very poor. One in Petionville, charges 70$/mnth for membership, and is not fully stocked with the equipment that you'd expect. And the embassy gym has damaged equipment (benches with exposed foam, treadmills that don't work, etc) that is unsanitary and/or dangerous. It is also tiny, and always crowded. There will be a new gym on the new compound when it "eventually" opens. I cannot speak to it's quality.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted, but I do not use mine because I have had mine scanned at places I thought were reputable. Moreover, the cashiers often give you a choice in whether you want to be charged in haitian gourdes (GDS) or USD (at the moment 68GDS=1USD), and there have been instances of the cashier charging the figure of the price of GDS in USD. They try to remedy the mistake by giving you change in GDS. I stick with cash.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is present, but Kreyol or French would be helpful. A common troupe here is that many claim they understand English but cannot produce it.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. No sidewalks. When there are sidewalks, they have huge ditches. Very few buildings have elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No. There are public transportation restrictions, but you wouldn't want to take it anyway.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Bring a AWD or 4WD vehicle with high clearance.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
No. Internet service is inconsistent. It works until it doesn't. Speed is tolerable. Not fast, but not painstakingly slow. Cannot handle online gaming without significant lag.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Everyone seems to use one of two vets in town. I have not heard complaints.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most EFMs attempt to find work at the embassy, but it takes a while, between recovering from the hiring freeze, clearances, and going on Authorized Departure, there are many wrenches thrown into EFMs employment prospects. Unless you speak French, or have a job that allows you to telecommute (as much is possible with the connectivity issues here), employment prospects are low.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Many. There are many orphanages, English classes, women's shelters to volunteer your time. The issue becomes where they are located, the most needy places tend to be in zones prohibited by security restriction.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Haiti has a formal culture. Ties for men are expected.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Violent crime is on the rise in Haiti; I have heard that unfortunately it has touched some of our local staff.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
If you need medical care, you are going to go to Miami.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Bad. Port-au-Prince is dusty, trash fires are frequent, car exhaust is heavy in the air.
Schools & Children:
1. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expat community is large, but I feel the FSOs have a hard time breaking out of the American bubble because of a myriad of reasons, but principally security restrictions and curfew.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
House parties, the popular spots on set days; Magdoos, Shakers, Asu, etc., but it's the same spots every week.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
No. I think it is a difficult city for all people. Singles: dating here is a formal process, and resembles more courtship than casual. Childless couples: it'll be good if the other can find work, otherwise it puts pressure on the relationship. Families: families historically have enjoyed PaP as a Post but with the increase in violence and danger (as recognized by State with a bump in Danger Pay) it causes some families to reconsider.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
As everywhere, an underground community exists, but it will be largely expats.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Leaving. Google flights from PAP (Port au Prince Toussaint L'overture Airport) to your destination in the US and you will see it gets pricey.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are handicrafts, metal artwork, paintings that many collect. Haiti has a vibrant art culture.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
None.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely not.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Dreams of Caribbean paradise.
3. But don't forget your:
Mosquito repellant, and swimming trunks.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Who Owns Haiti, The Aftershocks of History.
