Port Au Prince, Haiti Report of what it's like to live there - 09/03/11
Personal Experiences from Port Au Prince, Haiti
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Second experience, I've lived in France before and traveled extensively.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
A two hour flight from Miami, but flights are exorbitantly expensive.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Affiliated with the US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Depressing, and perfectly fine. Mostly depressing.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You will find almost anything you want from tahini sauce & falafel mix, to pad thai and sushi wrappers in the grocery stores here. Extensive selections of French cheese, American apples and lettuce, high end chocolate and everything you could imagine. It's just expensive. A box of Minute Maid orange juice - $10. A pint of raspberries (American) - $15. A medium size bottle of liquid Tide - $26. A jar of French raspberry jam (Bonne Manman) - surprisingly slightly LESS expensive than what I used to pay in NYC.(Too bad I shipped this jam in my consumables . . . ) Ship in your cleaning supplies, a $2 bottle of whatever at Target is a lot more palatable, than a $8 bottle of the same thing available here.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
A cooler and a bag to cover it. To make Costco meat and cheese runs up to the States. Note:American Airlines won't allow you to fly to Haiti with a cooler during the summer months, so you have to put the cooler inside of a duffle bag of some sort. Also, re: American Airlines -- they have a summer embargo season, so check flight restrictions up to the minute you fly. (You arrive at the airport with your three bags w/ carry on and find out that yesterday they changed the rules and now you're only allowed to check two bags, not three. The airline attendants don't budge, they don't bargain, they don't care that you are moving to Haiti for two years. They won't let you pay the fee for a third bag, even though you're very willing. And no, even if you're on orders, they won't pretend that you're military and give you those allowances. Just be prepared.)
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Near the Embassy, plan on spending US$10 - $15 at the Daily Cafe. The lunch buffet at Cannes a Sucre is around $12. Dining out, Hot & Fresh (Sandwiches) $7. Munchies in Petionville (BEST PIZZA EVER (NYC style)) Large pizza & two cokes $20. Quartier Latin (latin music & dancing on Thursday nights, make a reservation) $25 and up. The View, Trois Deck, Mozaique, Papaye, and others, $30-100.(USD)
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Surprisingly there are some organic and gluten-free items available here. Annie's brand mostly. Look for these at Maison Handal.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes, ants!!!!, and some roach issues. I find by using household bug repellent (the stuff you spray around your foundations, doors and windows. I use the Bayer/ blue bottle stuff), that my insect problems indoors have been minimal. I sprayed this around my house when I arrived (brought it in my suitcase) and I haven't had tarantulas, most spiders, or other bugs inside my house. I had some minuscule brown ants that started coming indoors three months ago, the blue spray didn't work, but Taro brand liquid ant traps killed those rather quickly. So, bring that too! Bring mosquito repellent to spray on yourself. Even if you're outside for five minutes at dusk to chat with your neighbor or water your plants, you'll walk away with several mosquito bites. Also most restaurants are outdoors.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO & Pouch. Items that happen to be sent by regular mail to a real address in Haiti take months (several) to arrive in Haiti. So if you don't have access to DPO or the pouch, use FedEx.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
My housekeeper comes three times a week and I pay her $15/day, plus Taptap fare. (This comes to just shy of US$200/month or $400/month for full time, 6 days a week.) She cooks, she cleans, she's worked for Americans for a very long time. Please be aware there is a 13th month and a 14th month for salary. You pay an extra 13th month when the school year starts (September) and then a 14th month as a bonus during the holiday season (December). Gardener comes 3 times a week for $150/month. We have a very small yard. Yes I pay more, but I also don't have to micromanage my staff. So, my clothes get laundered correctly, don't come back shrunken with holes, my produce gets bleached, and kitchen get's cleaned up to American standards, my plants outside don't die, and the yard stays tidy. This all happens with me not having to do much, if anything, at all. Which I like after coming home from a long day at work.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a pool and a small gym on the US Embassy compound. Ship in your own treadmill/elliptical trainer/weights and turn your second bedroom into a gym. The old Gold's Gym in Petionville that was mentioned by a prior post has been taken over by the CEP (think elections). It is a gym no more. Don't bring a pull-up bar (I made this mistake). The walls are thick concrete, which leaves you with no door frame to hang the pull-up bar from.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Only use ATMs on the Embassy compound, unless you want to be mugged walking out of a bank or scammed at the ATM. Most restaurants accept credit cards, so do the grocery stores. However, sometimes there's a LONG lag (think up to 4 weeks) for purchases to ping your account. Which can be an issue if you don't balance your checkbook regularly.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
English language? None that I know of.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Through Voila wifi internet. Hulu & Netflix.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I get by with French. But everyone speaks Creole. Currently, when I want to talk to my Gardener, I speak in French, then my guard translates into Creole.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
No sidewalks, unpaved/bumpy roads, the paved roads have quickly forming pot-holes. Very few elevators. NOT wheelchair assessable.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Prohibited by RSO. And no, definitely not safe. For those of you non-Embassy folks, there is questionable maintenance performed on Taptaps, which lead to auto accidents, and sometimes death.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A 4x4 is necessary. High clearance is more important than having a 4x4. (Think: high cement speed bumps, deep pot holes and dry riverbeds -- which function as the roads leading up to and running in front of your house.) You don't want a vehicle with stiff suspension. People who bring their sedans to post are idiots. Toyotas are the most popular brand locally.(Practically everyone drives a Toyota.) If you're a diplomat (particularly an American) the CD on the front of the car will protect you, so don't worry too much that your car might be flashy (there are thousands of Land Cruisers running around town).... That said, DON'T bring your Mercedes or Lexus, you don't see those SUV's that often and they scream money.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
US$99/month "Medium Spender" package through Viola. Speed has gotten significantly better within the past few months. (I stream TV & movies online and it rarely, if ever, stops to buffer now.)
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cheap. Digicel & Voila (the two local cell phone companies) don't talk to each other very well. Most locals have one of each so they can reach all their friends. Post will issue you a phone you can use (direct hires only, EFM's no, so wait until you know which phone you've been given, and then run out and buy your wife/kid/significant other the same type of phone).
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is a vet in Petionville where everyone takes their pets. Although plan to arrive 45 minutes before the office opens, or you'll be standing in a line all day long.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. Not really, although there are more and more EFM jobs coming available at the US Embassy. In particular, I've known spouses of people come to post who are nurses, and despite the grave need for medical professionals, they've been unable to find places to work due to Red & Yellow zone travel restrictions.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Think French. Sharp dressers. The locals dress more nicely than the Americans. Nice shoes, nice pants, nice shirts, nice skits/blouses, nice jewelry, four-inch heels. Freshly laundered, nicely pressed. Etc.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is a critical threat post. You're not allowed to walk outside on the sidewalk, not allowed to wander through local markets to shop, not allowed to drive into certain parts of town (unless in an armored vehicle w/an armed guard and follow car). There is a curfew in effect. If you're the type to feel trapped, this is not the post for you. Oh, but the danger pay is only 5%, so don't be fooled by the low allowance. Management says, "Oh it's safe, go enjoy yourself." But then other people at the embassy say, "NO! It's dangerous, don't do this, don't do that." Then the riots happen and you're locked down. Or high profile local Americans go and get themselves kidnapped. Two days later, you're driving around town with an all okay signal from the powers that be, but what's really changed? Nothing. It's a racket, and you begin to doubt yourself, your own judgment, and then you become cynical and paranoid.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Yes. and None.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Poor, very poor. Bring HIGH quality/professional air purifiers if you have any sort of allergy or asthma at all. (I recommend the Oreck brand.) Someone is always burning something. Burning trash: there are always trash fires, the worst is when it's right next door and your house fills with smoke. (Think: plastic and Styrofoam, as well as paper and garden material.) Burning tires: the go-to choice when Haitians are rioting. Dust: not only from the unpaved roads (extensive), but from the rubble. There is concrete dust everywhere that just doesn't settle. Charcoal: smoke when Haitians make charcoal, smoke when they cook with it.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and humid, but less so than in S.E. Asia. There are two rainy seasons, hemmed in by two semi-dry seasons.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
French Lycee and American School is available.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Haiti might not be the right country for you.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Ballet classes, yes. Soccer, I think so.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Enormous, however, there is little interaction between groups. State people visit State people, USAID people visit other USAID people. Likewise, the UN folks stick to themselves, and the NGOs stick to themselves, and the other Embassy communities stick to themselves. It's actually quite isolating, especially when you have to debate whether a visit to a friend is worth the risk of sitting in traffic for a minimum of one hour (each way) every time you want to go out.
2. Morale among expats:
Low. Extremely low. It's interesting to watch. Haiti sucks the life out of you.(And I've watched this happen quite a lot with the extremely high volume of TDYers I've seen come and go.) People come with a glow. Then they dim, and by the time their short TDYs are over (2-4 months) the glow is long gone and they're just walking around with a shell-shocked survivalist mentality. (We're not talking earthquake shell-shock, I'm speaking about a time period 16 months after the earthquake.) Sometimes I feel bi-polar towards Haiti (many others feel the same, the prior Real Post Report speaks to this issue). Some days I love it here, I think I want to come back again and again and try to make a difference. But then I wake up, become a realist, and want out. Cynicism, sarcasm, and rage will eventually trump altruism, optimism, and hope.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Depends on where you live and transit times. If you live in one of the clusters, then you're more likely to entertain and be entertained. If you don't, then each time you get invited over to someone's house you have to weigh whether you want to take the risk of being stuck in traffic for up to 2 1/2 hours on the way there and the same on the way back. As for entertaining at my place, I drew a short straw re: housing, I don't entertain here.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families fare better here, because you have a built-in support structure at home. Of course, some families fare worse, because the spouse often goes stir crazy and wants out. (Out of the country that is...)
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. The class system is alive and well in Haiti. The lighter-skinned Haitians look down on and denigrate people with darker skin, and the darker skinned Haitians have hostile resentment toward lighter skinned Haitians. As a Caucasian person, I almost always have been treated very nicely.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
A trip to Cap Haitien and then to Ile la Vache. Haiti has the potential to be an amazing tourist destination, everywhere.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
People go to the beach, or up the mountain to the Baptist Mission (view is nice). Sleep, read a book. Watch movies online. Sleep some more. Walk little circles around the housing compound.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Beautiful wooden bowls (Einstein), metal art, beaded bags, paintings (from the galleries and on the streets), stone sculptures.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
I would say saving money. However, there are no middle class services. Everything from groceries to restaurants are expensive. You can save money if you buy consumables in the States, ship them in, and then don't internet shop. (The import fees are excessive which drive up prices AND there is an uber-wealthy class here in Haiti. All of the services are geared toward them.)
11. Can you save money?
Only if you don't eat out, don't travel, and don't shop on the internet.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Maybe, but most likely not.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
3. But don't forget your:
Swiffer dusters, air purifiers, & dehumidifier. An extra set of tires. (Yes, the mechanic at the dealership is lying to you, sort-of. Yes, those tires will last you for two years. Two years of driving on freeways in the States. But those tires will only last a year on the everyday roads of Port-au-Prince. I'm assuming here that you don't have brand spanking new tires on your car right now.) High quality UPS (uninterpretable power source) and associated Voltage Regulators (think: your generator sends out too high of a voltage, so everything electrical runs hot, and your UPSs don't charge, then when the power goes out everything crashes). A battery powered alarm clock, or use the alarm on your iPhone/Touch/Pad. Also, fyi, Verizon phones go crazy in Haiti. They won't keep time (and won't make calls), so if you use your phone as an alarm clock, don't count on it working here. (If you use Verizon.)
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you have any other comments?
There is a new crew on board and the Management section of the Embassy is making great efforts to correct many of the issues that have directly impacted morale at post. It will take a while, a long, long while for change to take place, but for those of you coming in the future, there is hope. One day, the well-deserved reputation that this post has earned will change. Change for the better. So you mid-level managers and seasoned veterans, think about coming. We need you. Things are changing, you can help that change stick, and keep this embassy on track. Plus in the coming years, the Embassy is shifting toward compound living w/American style housing. So many of the housing complaints will go away and quality of life issues will drastically improve.
