Accra, Ghana Report of what it's like to live there - 02/24/10
Personal Experiences from Accra, Ghana
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Sixth time living abroad. Second time in West Africa.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC.KLM flies via Amsterdam and is generally a more comfortable flight than its Delta competitor. Travel time is approximately 24 hours including layovers and transfer time. Delta flies direct to NYC, but for persons traveling on it may be difficult to clear customs with small children and then recheck everything at JFK.The Delta flight is approximately 10 hours. United is scheduled to begin direct flights to Dulles in either April or May 2010.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two and a half years - leaving in 2011.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
DOS spouse/AEFM employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most people live in compounds. Some of them are very new, which is nice aesthetically, but can be a pain while construction bugs are ironed out. Most of the stand-alone houses in the pool are older and small. The large stereotypical "Africa House" with the giant great room and pool is not something you will find here. Most everyone lives in the neighborhoods surrounding the embassy. Commute time can be as little as 10 minutes on foot or 5 minutes by car.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
We have an AEA commissary here that gets regular shipments of dry and frozen goods. Prices are higher than in the US, so anything that you use a lot of you will probably want to ship in consumables. That said, there is definitely a plus to having cool whip and turkeys at Thanksgiving and having a place near the embassy to do your shopping. Koala, MaxMart and ShopRite are the three major grocery stores, but there are also some specialty stores. There really is no logic to prices; one month you might pay GHC 8 for orange juice, the next month the same brand is GHC 14.You will not be able to get everything you need/want in one store - grocery shopping is a several stop activity. Groceries can be VERY expensive on the local economy. Prices tend to be raised around the holidays - fresh vegetables such as broccoli can go for up to $20 in December. Locally grown produce is nice and can be gotten for a decent price; pineapples, mango and papaya are all staples. Household cleaners can be very expensive; especially name brands. Bring what you can in your consumables. Many folks order some things you can't get here from Amazon.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Bikes. Can be a good way to go short distances. A child's play gym or Little Tykes house/fort for the back yard.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a variety of decent restaurants. Cheap places that are family friendly include Papaye in Osu and Frankie's, which can run as little as about $3 per person. Mama Mia's is a pizzaria that is very popular with the expat crowd. Nicer places abound and can run up to $100 for dinner for two, including wine. A good variety, and you can find Indian, Ethiopian, Korean, Chinese, American, Ghanaian, African, Mexican (sort of) and Italian here. The only frustrating thing is that Sunday Brunch does not exist here except for the bigger hotels.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Little biting flies and mosquitoes. This is a malaria zone. Some houses report a problem with ants. Many people engage a local sprayer regularly to spray yards as the embassy isn't really very keen on spraying. Borax helps cut down on the ant problem. Inexpensive "zappers" can be purchased locally and put in bedrooms. We sleep under mosquito nets, but most embassy people do not and prefer instead to take anti-malarial drugs either in additon to or instead of other measures. Bring your bug spray.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch only. Non-embassy expats rent PO boxes at the post office."Duty" on your items that someone sent you depends on your negotiation skills.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Most people employ at least one person. Unlike in other countries, Ghanaians like to "specialize".It may be difficult to get someone who wants to do cooking AND cleaning or cooking, cleaning AND nannying. Embassy expats tend to pay the most and average wage is probably GHC 200/month. Many people supplement this with a food allowance for their staff. Some only want to work 9-5; it is important to negotiate a schedule that works for you so that you aren't immediately at home with dinner, kids and everything else dumped on you when you are tired from an 11-hour day. Babysitting is very inexpensive and overtime is affordable, even on holidays.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a gym; there is also Pippa's Gym and Aviation Social Centre. Many people bring treadmills with them - Game has some machines and free weights available for purchase locally.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I have not used the ATMS, but I have a friend who does this regularly and has had no problems. I purchased plane tickets once by credit card. I had to tell my credit car company in advance and let them know it was a one-time purchase and the approximate amount. Many of us shop with credit cards online through Amazon.com and some of us have had some problems. A lot of vendors will block your server from making orders (e.g. Drugstore.com and ToysRUs) if you order from home. Credit card fraud is a problem here.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. Many, many Christian churches, mosques and a Hindu Monastery. The Embassy of the Holy See holds Sunday mass.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. Several local papers for about GHC 0.70.The International Herald Tribune.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Zip. Nada.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are no sidewalks. Nothing is wheelchair accessible. It would be difficult.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis do not have seatbelts. Some folks take the tro-tros, buses and taxis, including many expats, but I think your own car is probably best. You pay for the taxi what you can negotiate; there are no meters.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
An SUV gives you the most options, especially when traveling outside of Accra. If not an SUV at least a 4WD.A minority has "non SUV cars" and they get around Accra just fine. If you have a US spec car you will want to pack some parts in your consumables. Tires are very, very expensive here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but service can be scatty and the "customer service center" is not able to actually troubleshoot or assist. You usually have to go to the office in person. It is about GHC 70/month. You do not get refunded or credited if you do not have service. In THEORY you can write a letter, but I know of no one who was successful in getting credit.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get a pay-as-you-go SIM card. Everyone here has a cell phone; it's a must.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
No kennels to speak of. There are a few good pet stores, but if your pet is fussy, you want to bring specialized food from home. Vets are generally competent, but I would not do elective surgery (i.e. spaying) here.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
With some NGOs perhaps, but work permits can be a problem.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Casual and neat. Ghanaian men wear a lot of suits. Fridays are great because it's national dress day and you see lots of colorful local outfits. Even expats wear them.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Petty crime is present there is some type of violent crime (usually a robbery at gunpoint (homemade guns - gun ownership and availability isn't an issue here)) a few times a year. The embassy assigns night guard from 6-6 and most everyone employs a day guard. Common sense precautions can prevent you from becoming a victim. As someone else said, this is NOT South Africa!
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
This isn't the place to have a serious health problem. The HU does a great job with what they have, but emergency services can be scary. Many folks join WARA (West African Rescue Assoc.) which provides good emergency care, but we are in Africa and conditions are sometimes less than ideal in public hospitals (even the expensive 37 Military Hospital) and equipment is older. Most women medevac to have children; it is required for embassy women. Malaria zone. Medevac is Pretoria or London.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
If you have asthma, you will have problems here on a regular basis - especially during the Hamattan season. Sometimes it is hard to tell if your neighbor is burning tires or smoking weed, honestly. Burning trash is common, although it is not as bad in Accra in the Cantonments area and Labone where a lot of expats live as it is in local areas.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot! Two rainy seasons a year provide some relief. Best and coolest months are August and September. Beginning on late October the weather gets hotter and by January we are all baking. Rainy season begins end of February or mid-March and finishes by beginning of May or so. Smaller rainy season hits mid-July for about 2 weeks.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Unlike 99% of the children, our children do not go to Lincoln Community School. We chose instead to send our kids to the German Swiss International School, where they have a bilingual program. The school is smaller and has a family feeling - we know all the kids and probably 90% of the other parents (at least by sight) and classes and grades frequently have programs together so learning across ages is practiced. The teachers and headmaster are all very accessible and have been active parts in our children's education. I also like that it has opened up other avenues outside of the embassy community. The previous reports we had read here about LCS were not very positive (2007 time frame, reports from 2006 and older).My friends who have children at LCS seem happy with the school presently, but report some dissatisfaction with the training and classroom methods of the local Ghanaian teachers, particularly in the kindergarten class. Since IB came to LCS, people seem happier. One family sends their children to Ghana International School and is happy with that. One family homeschools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
There is a special needs school in Labone about 10 minutes from the embassy. Two embassy families send their children there and seem happy with it.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
One of our children is in the German Swiss International School Nursery. He likes it a lot. Many other schools locally offer preschool:Little Explorers, Brilliant Stars, Gingerbread House, Twinkle Tots and Buzy Beez are just a few.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Pretty much anything you want your kid to learn (tae kwon do, ballet, etc.) can be done at your house in a private lesson - for cheap. We have the 5-time Ghanaian TKD Bantamweight champion coming to teach our son private lessons every week and it's only GHC 10 (about $6).Keep in mind, however, that you may have to go through a couple of teachers to find what you want. During the summer, however, it is miserable. GIS and LCS have had summer programs, but they tend to be loosely run and expensive. We never got our son's ceramics project from LCS daycamp last year, because he was sick and when our driver left to go pick it up, the program administrator asked him for a dash. GSIS has a soccer training camp for kids on Saturdays during the school year. Swimming is year round and the embassy has a pool. Other expats go to LaPalm, Alisa or other hotels and pay about GHC 7 to swim. Swimming lessons are available from Albatross Swim School, which is red cross standard and run by Kwame Kpodoh, the LCS swim coach and lifeguard.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty large, I think. Over 8,000 American currently.
2. Morale among expats:
It ebs and flows. It can be great one week and terrible the next. That's Africa.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is definitely an active social circuit. Many people entertain in their homes, not just embassy expats. There are a number of clubs that meet - Caldonian society, NAWA and schools also have balls and dances sometimes. There are some crazy birthday parties for kids here. If you are not careful, it can be hard to balance your life. During holidays, it is probably possible to do something every night of the week. People here tend to be very friendly and open and make friends quickly.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It is good for families in certain respects - children are included in most embassy events and there are a lot of crazy birthday parties. It is great for couples with children because paying for babysitting here will not require you to take out a mortgage on your house. I would NOT want to be at this post as a single person. Single women here seems to fall into two categories:happy and VERY unhappy. I think dating here can be very tough - especially if the Visa Question comes up if you are attached to the embassy. I honestly think non-embassy expats have it much easier in this regard.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
We have two gay couples at post presently and they are both integral parts of the community and very active. Ghana in general is very conservative and does not necessarily acknowlege or deal with homosexuality well. I would think discretion is the key. I have not heard of any instances of harassment.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
You get called, "Obruni" and your prices are higher, but it's no big deal.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Visiting the slave castles, beach vacations and getting involved with some of the local women's groups.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Beaches, pool, the Accra Mall provides some shopping and a movie theatre with recent releases, go out with friends to eat or dancing. There are a lot of school bazaars in the fall which are fun to shop at. Ghana Mountaineers is a hiking club which meets about once a month. There are a number of clubs and groups that do sports or activities, you really just need to ask around. NAWA, the North American Women's Association, publishes the No Worries Guide To Accra, which lists most of them. Some folks here get into beading, and there are several places to visit to watch beads being made. A very large bead market and a center for bead trading in West Africa is at Koforidua, about a 2-3 hour drive. People do a lot of entertaining here. You only get bored here if you want to be bored."Making your own fun" is definitely part of the tour here.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Beads! Carved items, batik, and some artists do very good work in oils.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's always warm!It's "Africa Lite" and a good chance for family who aren't too adventurous to come visit you.
11. Can you save money?
Probably not. Unless you want to eat only local food and never leave your house. It's more expensive to live here than it was for us in Hong Kong, which is generally considered very expensive.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes
3. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, bug spray, outdoor toys and equipment
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
No Worries, The Essential Guide to Accra by The North American Women's Association. Bradt Guide to Ghana.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
You really have to learn to adapt to live here and be ready for a roller coaster ride. Some days it is great to be here and others you really are not happy. It's very frustrating to run into some of the red tape here, but very rewarding when you can navigate it. Things are different here in pace and in method and it can take some getting used to. Find a group of friends, an activity or something like that soon after arrival; it will make your integration here that much easier.
