Accra, Ghana Report of what it's like to live there - 03/01/22
Personal Experiences from Accra, Ghana
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we've lived in three other foreign countries with the U.S. Embassy.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. There is a direct flight from Dulles to Accra on United Airlines (10-11 hours, overnight flight). There's also a direct flight from JFK to Accra on Delta. It's a pretty straightforward trip from the East Coast to Accra, and a night flight both ways which is nice if you have kids.
3. What years did you live here?
2021-present.
4. How long have you lived here?
One year.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is either standalone houses or compounds with 3-10 houses on each one, some compounds have pools and some do not. Embassy housing is all very close to the Embassy, either walking distance of within 5-10 minutes drive. Housing is either in one of two nearby neighborhoods, which are older areas of Accra and the housing reflects that. Old houses with deferred maintenance is the norm. The neighborhoods are also under the flight path for Accra airport so you hear airplanes all day long. If you're a light sleeper, don't move to Accra.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Availability is hit or miss; sometimes the store shelves are stocked with American products, and other times you can't find anything. There is no "1 stop shop" store here; you have to normally go to 3-4 stores to get all your groceries. Prices are quite high. Most people order their basics online (Amazon, Walmart) and ship to DPO/pouch. Accra is also a consumables post.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Paper products (toilet paper, paper towels, zip lock bags, aluminum foil, etc.) Tide detergent, kid snacks (goldfish, animal crackers).
Toys for birthday presents for children: any American product you find locally will be 3x the price you can get on Amazon.
Clothing- there isn't one chain clothing store in Accra. I only shop online.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Several restaurant options near the Embassy and delivery is common. Most stores have a driver and use WhatsApp to place orders and make deliveries. Groceries can be delivered too. Ghanaian food is spicy if you like that. There's also a huge Lebanese population here so lots of hummus, samosas, and Middle Eastern influence.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes, cockroaches, ants (don't leave anything on your kitchen counter that's not wrapped up).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is very affordable. A full time, live-in nanny/housekeeper costs about 2,000 cedi which is $300 USD. Many families employ several people, e.g., nanny, housekeeper, gardener, and driver.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Limited: the Embassy gym is small and run down, there's a Cross-Fit gym across from the Embassy, and a few yoga/Pilates studios. Group classes cost about $10-$12 USD per class, privates are $60-$80 USD.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Mobile money is the most common payment method here; you can place money on your number to pay merchants. Credit cards are not widely used; big grocery stores will take them but it's a hassle and many US credit cards flag purchases as fraud. The Embassy has an ATM and a cashier.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There's a church on every corner in Accra.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None, although it's hard to understand Ghanaians' English when you first arrive, as in my opinion, their accents are very strong.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Ubers are very common and affordable. We are not allowed to take public transportation (tro-tros).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The vast majority of people here drive an SUV. Toyota is the easiest brand to fix/repair here. Don't bring a brand new car because it will get dinged eventually, but don't bring a very old car that needs a lot of work.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but internet comes and goes. The Embassy recently changed the package and now it's about $100 USD per month for the fastest internet package. You can have it set up before you arrive at post.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring an unlocked iphone from the US and buy a local SIM card when you arrive. Vodaphone and MTN are the most common carriers. Data/call time is cheap, $5 can last all month.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There is one vet that most Embassy families use and he makes house calls. There aren't many options for boarding your pet while on vacation. There is a ton of paperwork and blood work required to bring your dog into Ghana so plan ahead. Ghanaians do not like dogs very much and most of the household help and guards will be afraid of them.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
The Embassy has a good amount of EFM positions. I think the FAMER lists 40 jobs or so ranging from low to moderate pay. The Embassy also has 4-5 EPAP positions. Teleworking is quite common but the 5-6 hour time difference from DC makes it challenging.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Dress is pretty casual; it's hot and humid here so dresses are common, as well as short sleeves.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Accra is very safe; there's petty crime/crimes of opportunity but I've never felt unsafe
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria- you have to take prophylactics. Ghana gut is real (you'll get it a few times while you're here), you can't drink the water, AQI gets up to 200-250 during Harmattan (Dec-Feb). Medical care is basic at best; the health unit refers almost everything out to local providers. I wouldn't get anything done here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Fine most of the year but AQI can get as high as 250 during Harmattan (Dec-Feb).
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Dietary restrictions are not common here; you can find gluten free products in some stores, but most restaurants won't know what is is.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Life can be slow here and it can frustrate you, no sense of urgency (except when they are driving).
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and humid, most days are 80-90 F, sunrise at 6am, sunset at 6pm, 12 hours of sunlight.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Lincoln Community School (LCS) is the State-sponsored school. Some children attend Ghana International School (British curriculum), French school, or religious-based school. LCS is fantastic for elementary school. The school resembles a community college campus; kids swim for gym class, they learn French, they take field trips, and they are very engaged. The school is diverse and multicultural, the teachers are wonderful, and we've been very impressed. The downside is the commute- the bus ride is 1 hour each way but the AEA provides bus transportation.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are lots of daycares available. Little Explorers (LEMP) is the most common and it's located down the street from the Embassy. Other schools are Safari and Beanstalk. The average cost is about $700/month (you pay 3 installments throughout the year) and most close for the summer (similar to a school, not daycare).
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, there are many activities; most outdoor sports are available year round because of the weather (tennis, swimming) and there are classes ranging from gymnastics, ballet, Taekwondo, soccer, musical instruments, etc)
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Post is large, about 200 USDH plus their families. There are surprisingly a lot of Americans in Accra that are not part of the Embassy. There are a lot of diplomats here too. Morale is average.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Restaurants, beaches, pools, art, markets.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for families with young children; household help is affordable, lots of kid activities, schools are great for little kids.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
The locals are very friendly.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No, the government recently proposed a bill to criminalize homosexuality.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
No.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Schools, affordable household help, short commute from home to Embassy, beach within a one hour drive, fresh fruit available.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How expensive it is and how much poverty is here.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably not.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes, hair dryer.
4. But don't forget your:
sunscreen, bug spray.
