Suva, Fiji Report of what it's like to live there - 10/20/18
Personal Experiences from Suva, Fiji
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, this is my second post overseas.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East Coast USA. LONG. Did I mention long. The international airport in Fiji is in Nadi, roughly a four-five hour drive around the island or a 30-minute flight from Suva via commuter plane. From Nadi it is about a 12-13 hour flight to LAX. Because of the arrival time in LAX (late morning/early afternoon) all the morning flights to the East Coast have finished so you are doing about a 8-9 hour layover in LAX if you want to take the red eye to NY, IAD, or ATL, and then you have another connection to your final destination. You are looking at about two days of travel time. Take a rest stop in LA and your body and mind will thank you.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two and a half years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is a very mixed bag and causes quite a bit of drama within the Embassy community. Simplest way to describe housing is this: the housing is adequate. Some houses have pools, and nice yards, but the big issue is all houses are small. There is not a lot of storage space, and anything stored outside will quickly be covered in mold and mildew.
Housing is expensive in Suva, and housing that meets standards is limited. Many international and diplomatic groups are competing for houses, so price does quickly become an issue. There seems to be no real middle class in Fiji, therefore you have either really run-down houses or very, very expensive houses.
The two main areas are Tamavua or Domain. Domain is about a 10-15 minute cab ride to the embassy. Domain houses are closer to downtown/waterfront and tend to be smaller and older, but the yards are bigger, and the houses tend to have some character. Tamavua, while closer to the embassy (some within walking distance), and bigger, you are further away from downtown and traffic can be bad. Depending on the house, road noise can be an issue.
All housing is leased. Expect to have bugs and geckos in your house. You will run your dehumidifier all the time. Expect houses to be older and quirky. You won't have a lot (if any) storage space. If you are coming from a location that had big, modern houses you might feel disappointed.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Limited and pricey. While the land is good for farming in Fiji, locally grown items are limited and almost everything is imported. And when items run out it can be awhile before they show back up. Expect to pay US $50-60 for a case of Fijian beer. Expect to pay more than US $10 for a pint of strawberries (when you can find them). Get the name of the butcher on the other side of the island and have meat delivered. That being said, bananas, limes, mangos, pineapples that are local are some of the best you will ever taste. Also, Amazon Prime Pantry will become your friend.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Use your consumables! Check with the CLO on what you should bring. Stock up on beer, wine, and liquor. Also, read the bio security rules on what you can/cannot bring in. There is no diplomatic exemption and bio-security will be at your house when your consumable/HHE shipment arrives. They will inspect boxes and confiscate items.
Also note that Fiji just recently changed their rules and now does not allow your HHE, UAB, POV to start to move until you are accredited. That can take a month. So for example your UAB may not arrive until 2-3 months after you arrive at Post. HHE from the US can take 6+ months. It seems like this can cause a lot of stress for new staff.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Again limited. Lots of curry houses. Holiday Inn has a decent wood-fired pizza. Grand Pacific Hotel (GPH) has a decent restaurant. Bulacino has locations all across Fiji; when we left the Suva location was closed but hopefully will reopen. They have a great breakfast and lunch. They also have bagels on occasion. Governors House has a good breakfast and they have a lot of Fijian film memorabilia. Daikoku is a decent Japanese restaurant. Of course, there is McDonalds and Burger King. No delivery options available.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
It's the tropics. You will have ants in your house. You will come to love the geckos in your house that eat the ants. Some houses had issues with rodents. Embrace any feral cats on your property and they should help with the rodent population.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch, so know the rules and restrictions. I had someone send something from the US to me via Fijian Post and it took about a year to arrive.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available, inexpensive, but quality depends. Most people have part-time household help. You will also want a gardener to come once a week. Being the tropics your yard will need someone. A coworker attempted to do his own yard work and that lasted one day.
Also, hire a pool company to clean your pool if you have one, as your pool will not be maintained for you.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a "prison gym" (as it's called) at the Embassy.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Some places take credit cards. Anyplace that does take cards will charge an additional 3% fee (even hotels and resorts). While we were in Suva there was a rash of credit card numbers being stolen. Use the ATM or cashier in the Embassy. Don't use local ATMs - just assume they are compromised. Fiji is mostly a cash economy.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Everything is in English.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is the primary language.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Very much so.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are inexpensive and plentiful. RSO does not permit use of buses for Americans.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Fiji is a right hand drive country, but you can bring in a left hand drive as a diplomat. You can only sell your left-hand drive car to another diplomat. A lot of people had SUVs, but a small car will work fine. Quite a few people end up ordering a used car from Japan. You will see lots of Priuses in Fiji.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Hahaha. All internet is cellular-based (there is some fiber to the home options, but limited) and it's all capped. You will see average download speeds around 5mb. For cellular, there are two companies Digicell and Vodaphone. Which you use depends on your house and where you live. One house may get Vodaphone fine but right next door or down the street they can't get a signal so its Digicell. We used Digicell and had the highest packaged (100gb a month). You will hoard your data until the end of the month and then stream away. Unless you want to top up constantly you can forget Netflix, Hulu, etc.
I mentioned fiber. Yes, it is being rolled out in some areas. My understanding was if it wasn't in your area, the local telecom will be happy to run fiber to your residence, you will just pay for running the fiber on the whole street, so plan on paying for all of your neighbors to have access. Speeds are much higher than the cellular options, it is still capped.
Satellite tv is available though the channels are limited. You can get set up pretty quickly, average is about a month after arrival.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Digicell and Vodaphone are the only carriers.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There is one vet in Suva located in Lami Bay that everyone uses. Getting animals in and out of Fiji is expensive and complicated. Read all the rules, and then read the rules again. All incoming animals must be quarantined at your expense. The quarantine period can be from 30-120 days. Fiji Airways is the only airline serving Fiji from the US. All animals must ride in the cargo hold.
Fiji Air doesn't allow animals on the domestic flight from Nadi to Suva so you will need to drive your pet between those two points. To export your pet you have to have it cleared for export by BioSecurity. You will then need to drive your pet to Nadi and turn it in hours before your flight, since Biosecurity will meet you at the airport to check the paperwork and then place a seal on the crate. Plan on your pet being in its crate for at least 24 hours. It is a long and complicated process. Be prepared to spend at least a month before your departure to get all the paperwork in order.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Those who choose to work try to get one of the limited jobs in the Embassy. There is no bilateral work agreement between the US and Fiji. Fiji also has a high unemployment rate so you would have to have a skill that is in short supply to get hired locally. Plan on fighting trying to get a job at the Embassy or not working at all. With limited internet telecommuting is next to impossible.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are some, but not as many as you would expect. There is a group of women who volunteer to take items to the local hospital.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Pretty casual. Short-sleeved shirt and khaki pants are fine for work. Shorts and tee shirt all other times. If you wear a suit you will stand out (besides with the heat and humidity you will sweat a lot).
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is a big concern. Considerable security measures will have been taken to ensure your safety in your home. Use your alarm! Most crime is targeted towards locals however expats have had concerns. Listen to the RSO.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is very limited and basic. Pretty much anything that can't be fixed with a band-aid plan to be medevaced to Singapore (10+ hour flight). I think everyone who has served in Fiji has been medevaced for something at least once.
There is a small health unit at the Embassy, but the services they offer are limited. Suva Private Hospital is the approved hospital, but as I said if it is something a bandaid can't fix you will be on a plane to Singapore.
There is Zika in the country (but outside of the major cities). It's not really an issue unless you are hiking through the jungle. For divers there is only one decompression chamber in the country (located in Suva) but during out time there the chamber was broken. I don't know if it has been fixed but just be aware if you get bent while diving you might be in trouble.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very good. Occasionally you will see people burning yard waste but the air is pretty clean (just don't get caught behind a bus).
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Good chance you will be out of luck. Ask or at least don't plan to eat out.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The big issue is people think of Fiji as a paradise with white sand beaches and crystal clear water. While it is in Fiji, those picturesque landscapes aren't in Suva. Suva is a rainy city. The infrastructure is limited. There is "Fiji Time" as staff and Fijians do things when they get to it. Expect things to be accomplished in triple the amount of time it normally would take (if it is accomplished at all). People arrive thinking one idea about Fiji and are quickly disappointed by reality.
Also remember Fiji is a small rock in the South Pacific. You have to fly everywhere and it can be expensive.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Tropical.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
ISS is the only accredited school in Suva. If you are expecting a rigorous school with lots of homework, forget it. Kids love the school as it's laid back, and it's not uncommon to see kids barefoot. We had some concerns about ISS (there tends to be a good amount of teacher turn over) but when we got to our current post both kids tested very night. We're not sure if it's the teachers or we have smart kids.
One thing to consider with ISS is it is good for elementary and middle school. The consensus is high school gets very iffy, so keep that in mind if you will have high school-aged kids.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Very little.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Most people hire nannies.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are some activities offered by ISS. Swimming, soccer and rugby are very popular.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expat community is very large, with the Australians and Kiwis (New Zealand) being the big players. The Aussie HighCom has quarterly "sausage sizzles" (parties) and are fun to go to. I think overall the morale (as a whole) is good; people come to Fiji because it's Fiji and to take it slow.
For the Americans, I would say the morale can change depending on the season. Being a small embassy people are usually working two - three desks, so stress levels (especially during transfer season) can be very high. For entry level officers they only get one R&R trip, so working two-three different desks with only one R&R could add to the stress level.
2. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Single people will probably be bored out of their mind. For couples without kids its ok. It's a much better post for families.
3. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
While not generally accepted, there is a decent-sized LGBT community.
4. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Mostly between Fijians and Indo-Fijians. You can read up on the history.
5. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Seeing white sand, crystal clear waters (like in the postcards). Auckland is a 3 hour flight, Sydney 5 hours. Hong Kong and Singapore are about 10 hours away. Honolulu from Nadi is only 6 hours (and is much cheaper to get to then Los Angeles). I Keep an eye on Fiji Airways as they offer deals occasionally to these locations.
If you are a diver or snorkeler you will be in heaven. So many options to choose from. Do the shark dive from Pacific Harbor/Bequa Island.
Now, here is a trick. Once you get your Fijian MFA card and drivers license a lot of the resorts offer "locals rate" - usually 50% or more off of the regular price. Take advantage of the offer.
One more thing to be aware of is Suva is on the Eastern side of the island (rainy side). All of the resorts are on the Western (dry) side. So to get to a resort you will drive 3-5 hours to get there. To get to the Mamanuca and Yasawa Island chains (where the real pretty resorts are) you have to take a boat from Nadi or a helicopter/sea plane. So add on time and cost for that. But once you get out there it is the most breath taking scenery.
Closer to Suva visit Leluvia Island. It's about a 45 minute boat ride from a landing near the airport. It's a bit rustic (generator power that is turned off at midnight) but it is absolutely beautiful. Quite a few people went out there all the time to get away.
6. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Take the Yasawa Flyer (boat) from Nadi to the Yasawa Islands and stay at a resort (the location where the film The Blue Lagoon is in the Yasawas). Take a jet ski to the island where the film Castaway was filmed. Do the shark dive from Bequa Island. Go to Leluvia during whale migration season and maybe you will get lucky and see humpback whales swimming by. Go to the rugby stadium in Suva and watch a rugby game (Fijians love their 7s!)
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are some neat wooden crafts made in Fiji. Go visit Max at the Suva Handicraft market (just ask for him). He knows everyone at the Embassy and will give you a good price on items. Plus you will get explanations on how items such as cannibal forks and war clubs were used!
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You're in the South Pacific, a place where people save up to visit their entire life. I guess Fiji really isn't high on Washington's radar so the stress level can be low.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How difficult it was. I had family who visited us who said "you don't get enough differential to live here."
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
It depends. My family really liked Fiji, but for me it was a stressful tour. There was a good crew during my tour so that made it better. I guess the best answer is been there, done that. Just think long and hard about what you are wanting from your Fijian experience. If you are expecting to sit around the beach after work all day you will be very disappointed. If you are coming from a "modern" post, you will probably be disappointed. If you just want to come and "get off the grid" so to speak you will probably be happy.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Hope to get anything done in a timely fashion.
4. But don't forget your:
Patience, and sunscreen.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
"Getting Stoned with Savages." The description of Suva is spot on.
