Quito, Ecuador Report of what it's like to live there - 07/19/23
Personal Experiences from Quito, Ecuador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, we've lived in numerous cities in Europe, the Middle East and Asia throughout our 16 years with the State Department.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC area, USA. There are direct flights from Quito into Houston, Atlanta, Miami and Ft Lauderdale. The flight times aren't very long, but for some reason many of the flights leave late at night or pre-dawn hours, so you end up rather sleep deprived.
3. How long have you lived here?
About a year.
4. What years did you live here?
Arrived in 2022.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing varies from large houses near the school to small modern apartments closer to "downtown." We are in an apartment with great light and a spectacular view. However, across the housing pool, it appears that they are constantly dealing with shoddy construction and quick-fixes from the landlords. GSO is very responsive, but it's quite a game of whack-a-mole. Still, I would say, overall, it seems that people are happy with their housing.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local produce and meats are quite affordable. And there are nearby farms that will deliver high-quality dairy and meat products if you order in advance via WhatsApp. Typical packaged goods, toiletries and items like dishwasher detergent and trash bags are definitely more expensive than the US. Dog food is very expensive, so we order it through the DPO.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We brought quite a bit of wine and are glad we did. You can find a decent selection of South American and European wines here, particularly Spanish, but it is significantly more expensive than the US.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are some great restaurants here and we're really enjoying Ecuadorian cuisine! It is easy to have food delivered via Uber Eats. We've discovered a fantastic Turkish grill, great pizza, and top notch Venezuelan barbecue. P.F. Chang's just opened, which gives us a bit of Asian fusion. I've yet to find Thai or good Chinese food.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
We've had some trouble with silverfish and spiders abound. At this altitude, there are very few flying pests.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We have a great mailroom! It typically takes 6-10 days for mail to arrive via DPO, though we had a major delay this past Christmas due to commercial airlines bumping our mail from their flights. Pouch takes about a week for delivery.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We have a housekeeper who works 20 hours a week and is super affordable. You can easily set up a work contract through the embassy and they ensure you pay the proper social security taxes, etc.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a number of parks where people regularly go to run or bike. In our neighborhood, there is a drought of nearby gyms or workout studios, unfortunately. It's hard to run in the neighborhood due to bad roads/sidewalks. Note that the voltage here is 110 like the US, so bring your treadmill, etc if you have the weight available.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It is safest to use the ATM at the embassy. Credit cards are easy to use in many restaurants and shops.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Decent Spanish is fairly crucial here, in my opinion, as very few people speak English. Nonetheless, I find Ecuadorians are very welcoming and patient when I engage them with my very-less-than-proficient Spanish. It's a great place to practice! There are lots of local tutors and classes available.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Uneven or non-existent sidewalks and lots of stairs (the city is tucked into the Andes!) would probably make it difficult, I imagine.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Quito is a critical crime post. Public transportation is off limits. Taxis are fine and Ubers are safe. However, Ubers can sometimes be hard to come by if you are out late, and it is dangerous to wait for an Uber outside of a restaurant at night.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
An SUV with high clearance is recommended. Landslides, pot holes, etc are abundant as you drive outside of the city. Within Quito, it is important to keep your doors locked and windows up. There have been numerous "reach in" robberies and scams at stoplights. When you park in the city, there are folks that guard your car against break-ins. You pay them/tip them before leaving.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
We have fairly high-speed internet that is very affordable. Concrete walls make it hard for the signal to reach the entire apartment without an extender.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
It is easy to get a mobile phone plan through the embassy commissary. Unlimited data is very affordable.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
This is one of the most dog-friendly countries we've lived in! Lots of decent vets and very inexpensive grooming and boarding.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I am able to telecommute easily. It is great to be on East Coast time!
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Quito is pretty casual and lends itself to sensible walking shoes and flannel shirts. Night time temps are perfect for a puffy.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Again, this is a critical crime post, and the crime has escalated since we arrived. I was surprised by the recent Real Post report that called Quito "a very safe city". It seems that RSO has its hands full with ongoing incidents. For example, we had two of the three cafes within walking distance to us robbed at gunpoint in the past six months. Most businesses keep their entrances locked and you must be buzzed in. I never wear jewelry and only carry what I am willing to hand over in a robbery.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The altitude is REAL! It will take some time to get used to the thinner air, but you will feel like a rockstar when you exercise back at sea level. People with pulmonary/cardio issues may want to avoid this post. The biggest altitude issue for me is sleep disruption and headaches when returning from sea level.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
While the air up here is thinner, the quality tends to be great! Note that the UV index can be off the charts. Always wear sunscreen even indoors.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Mold can be a problem. Also note that Ecuadorian cuisines uses peanuts a lot.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The sun rises and sets at the same time throughout the year as we're on the equator: 6:30 am/6:30 pm. I miss having longer days, to be honest. You kind of lose track of what month it is.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
We have a rainy season around January - April. This year, it rained A LOT. But, overall, the weather is lovely with daytime highs around 65-75 F and nighttime lows around 50-55 F. Note that we do not have A/C or heating as a result. I recommend bringing a few space heaters in your HHE.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are a number of decent schools. Many schools are located in -- or moving out to -- the sunny suburb of Cumbaya. I would recommend considering Cumbaya if you've got school-age kids.
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I don't have kids here, but I've heard of classes for tennis, dance, horseback riding, karate, etc.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Quito isn't an international business hub, so you won't find a lot of expats outside of the diplomatic/government agency community.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
With the crime rate and the consistent 6:30 pm sunsets, there isn't a vibrant nightlife here. The streets tend to get pretty quiet in the evening--at least in the more residential parts of town. If you enjoy hiking in the great outdoors, it's easy to find groups/excursions -- and the nearby nature is truly stunning. However, you won't find much by way of cultural venues. I find Quito to be pretty sleepy in general.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think this is a good place for families with young children who can take advantage of the stand-alone housing in gated communities, decent schools, and inexpensive household help.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I think it's a decent city for the LGBTQ community.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
I have found the locals to be some of the kindest, most welcoming people I've ever met. We have made some friends through social gatherings fairly easily. Seriously, the people here, along with the spectacular nature, are the highlight of this post.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is definitely discrimination against local indigenous communities.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I love the numerous rode trips that are within a couple of hours of Quito! Termas de Papallacta is a magical place as is Mindo in the cloud forest. We've yet to make it to the Galapagos as it's quite expensive and I'm a bit overwhelmed by the travel options, though we had a great trip into the Amazon, and there are wonderful coastal towns too. Ecuador's natural beauty is truly awesome!
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The city isn't flush with museums, but the museum and house of artist Oswaldo Guayasamin is amazing...it's up there with Monet's Gardens in Giverny for me.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
You can find beautiful woven lampshades, alpaca blankets and ponchos, tagua jewelry, gorgeous wood furniture, pottery, baskets... so, YES, you can definitely get your shopping on here!
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
I'm not a fan of the city itself. I think part of the problem is that it's perched up here in the Andes, so traffic can be brutal and areas can feel pretty spread out. I'm a bigger fan of Cumbaya in the valley which feels like a more cohesive village.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I knew this was a critical crime post before coming here, but I didn't realize how the threat of crime would demotivate me from going out at night (as it does for many of the locals as well). I also didn't realize that living up near the embassy would feel rather isolating as it really isn't a vibrant walkable neighborhood. If you like to entertain at home and supplement your homebody-ness with outdoor excursions on the weekends, I think you'll be okay here. If you are looking for a walkable cosmopolitan city, you may want to continue searching.
Oh, I almost forgot: We get quite a lot of earthquakes. We've experienced four decent quakes over the past few months -- nothing major, but it's a thing.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No, I would personally be more comfortable elsewhere.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
High heels, flashy jewelry, and low-clearance car.
4. But don't forget your:
110 voltage appliances, sunscreen, rain gear, cozy sweaters, space heaters, mountain bikes, binoculars, and hiking gear!
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Netflix has a series called "Magical Andes" that gives a sense of the natural beauty here.
6. Do you have any other comments?
I really have mixed feelings about this place. There are many things I really love about the country, but I have learned that I'm outside of my personal comfort zone here, and I find that rather isolating and draining. That said, I know many people who love it. I think if I had young children, I would enjoy the inexpensive household help, large single-family houses in a gated community, decent schools, and various activities for the kids. As an empty-nester who thrives in cosmopolitan cities, I'm feeling out of place.