Beijing, China Report of what it's like to live there - 11/24/24
Personal Experiences from Beijing, China
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Previous expat experiences in Europe, Asia, and Latin America.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Northeastern United States. Getting anywhere in eastern North America from Asia is a long trip, so manage your expectations. Direct air travel between the U.S. and China completely shut down from 2020-2022, and things have recovered slowly since then. That said, you can now reach most destinations in the U.S. in under 24 hours. There are limited non-stop flights from Beijing to the east coast of the U.S., but there are many flights from Beijing to LAX and SFO. It’s also easy to get to Tokyo and Seoul from Beijing, and there are frequent non-stop flights from either of those cities to the U.S. east coast.
3. What years did you live here?
2020 – 2024.
4. How long have you lived here?
Four years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
If you’re a diplomat, the PRC government decides which areas you can live in. Private expats may have more to choose from, although it’s not a fully open real estate market. Most Western diplomats either live in Chaoyang or Shunyi districts.
Chaoyang: Modern urban living. Housing is typically apartments, although a few compounds have small townhouses instead. There are countless restaurants and shopping areas. Public transit is abundant, so you can easily get by without a car. Many compounds are also within walking distance of the Embassy areas, so there’s no real commute to worry about. What’s the catch? Most units can only accommodate 4-5 residents and smaller pets; and the smaller diplomatic compounds are somewhat isolated from the rest of the community.
Shunyi: Modern gated community living. Housing is typically single-family homes, albeit on smaller lots than what you’d see in a wealthy American suburb. Thanks to the gates, streets are safer for kids to ride bikes, and there’s more of a community bubble than most of the Chaoyang compounds. That said – Beijing traffic can be brutal. The commute from Shunyi can be an hour each way during rush hour, and weekend traffic can make it hard to take advantage of restaurants, shopping, and tourist sites in Chaoyang and elsewhere in central Beijing.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Chinese mobile delivery apps are amazing. If you learn to use Meituan and/or TaoBao correctly, you can go weeks without setting foot in a store. That said, there are also many markets and western-style grocery stores in the expat neighborhoods. Fruits and vegetables are high quality and widely available, although pricing varies wildly by season (especially for things not grown in China).
Meat and fish are also easy to find, although it’s safer to buy those from an expat grocery store than the open-air market or via an app. Dairy products are usually available, but they can be expensive, as most Chinese dishes don’t use milk. Snack foods and cleaning products are more of a challenge – you can usually find something that meets your needs, but it might not be exactly what you were originally hoping to buy. Embassy families do have access to an on-site commissary (as well as the DPO system), making it easier to find esoteric items like vanilla extract and Pop Tarts.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None. You can find nearly everything you need in a store or via the delivery apps.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Meituan, Elema, Sherpa’s, JSS… the list goes on and on. Delivery apps are EVERYWHERE in Beijing (and most other big cities in China), and they will deliver any food item you can buy in the city. Western fast food, gourmet burgers, Middle Eastern, Mexican, Indian, Southeast Asian, countless varieties of Chinese food… the list just goes on and on. Most of the delivery apps will deliver grocery items too (including alcohol, cleaning supplies, and other household items).
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes are relentless in the summer months, although Beijing is far enough north to avoid any tropical diseases. Ants, spiders, and roaches will also surface periodically throughout the year, but no more than what you’d see in any other big city.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy employees have access to DPO. China Post and western private shipping companies are adequate, although any private shipment is potentially subject to censorship/monitoring by the host-country government.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Housekeepers, cooks, and nannies (ayis) are readily available, with varying levels of English proficiency. Live-in arrangements are rare, at least among expat employers. Drivers are available, although not really necessary given the excellent condition of the roads and wide availability of ride-share apps and public transit. Salaries are higher than SE Asia or India, but far lower than the U.S. or Europe.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Beijing has a lot of cars and minibikes, so it’s not particularly safe to run or bike along main thoroughfares. However, Beijing does have many parks and green spaces for running and distance walking. Biking is harder, as many parks prohibit bikes, but it becomes progressively easier as you move away from the city center. (Stronger bikers can also ride out to the rural areas along the edge of the city without much difficulty.) For younger children, there’s usually sufficient space to ride bikes within your diplomatic compound.
If you like hiking, Beijing is a gem. Beijing itself is very flat, but there are hundreds of hiking areas within an hour or two of the city center. Beijing Hikers is one of several hiking clubs / outfitters that organize hiking excursions in the hills outside the city, ranging from leisurely family walks through farmland to tough treks up and down the Great Wall. There’s no better way to experience the Great Wall than hiking and/or camping in a “Wild Wall” site.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Readily available. Most diplomatic compounds have some sort of gym, and there are many private facilities. No direct experience with private facilities, so no insight as to rates.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It’s not impossible to use foreign credit cards in China, but your life will be significantly easier if you set up a Chinese bank account. WeChat and Alipay work better if they’re tied to a local bank account, and both applications are universally accepted no matter how big or small the transaction. Having WeChat and/or Alipay also makes it significantly easier to purchase tickets for tourist attractions and use taxis/rideshare apps.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
This is a difficult question. Expats are free to organize religious services so long as they avoid proselytizing, a PRC legal concept that, in practice, prohibits expats from openly advertising religious services to the public or including any locals in a religious gathering. In other words, although expats can legally gather for church and other religious practices, these gatherings trend more toward house churches than stadium revivals.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Chaoyang and Shunyi are among the few places in mainland China where you can survive without using any Mandarin. You can get by elsewhere if you learn the numbers and other basic phrases in Mandarin, but English is rarely spoken/understood outside Beijing, Shanghai, and the most well-trodden tourist routes.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
As with the language barrier, this varies wildly across China. The main commercial areas in Beijing and Shanghai routinely offer wheelchair ramps, elevators, and similar accommodations. Secondary cities and rural areas are a different story. It would be challenging to live in rural China with a significant physical disability.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes and yes. Subways and local buses are cheap and safe, although bus routes can be hard to figure out if you don’t speak Mandarin and/or have a strong understanding of how Beijing’s streets work. Didi and other ride-sharing apps are easy to use and offer a range of vehicles (including yellow taxis). Although the drivers may not speak English, the apps do have English-language interface and work in nearly every city in China. More broadly: the Chinese rail network is extensive, efficient, and a great way to travel around the country. Chinese airlines are also fine, although airfares are as or more expensive than U.S. carriers. Note that the Chinese train and aviation systems can be overwhelmed during the Lunar New Year and October National Day holidays, as literally billions of Chinese travelers head out to visit family.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
If you live in Chaoyang (or anywhere inside the fourth ring road), you don’t really need a car. Ride-share cars are readily available, and the overall parking/traffic situation make owning a car more hassle than it’s worth. If you live in Shunyi or farther afield, there’s more upside to having a car. That said, China has a robust bureaucracy. Purchasing a car locally will take time, effort, and reasonable Mandarin proficiency; while importing a car requires that you navigate strict import restrictions which change almost monthly. That said, it’s possible to import a brand-new car to China. However, if your car is more than a year or two old, importation will be nearly impossible.
If you do end up owning a car in China, driving is fairly easy. Beijing, Shanghai, and the other top-tier cities have great highway systems, including electronic toll roads, as well as significant electrical vehicle infrastructure. Drivers should note that highways and city streets are monitored by a tight surveillance system. If you break the speed limit, run a red light, turn from the wrong lane, etc., you’ll likely get a ticket in the mail. Additionally, if you’re involved in an accident, you should assume that you’ll be found at fault (regardless of the objective facts).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Home internet can be set up within a few days of arriving. Costs are low and the speed is great, although you’ll need a VPN or two to access the real internet. Google, Facebook, and nearly all western media outlets are blocked in China. You also can’t procure a VPN once you arrive in China (since those sites are blocked too), and the “right” VPN service for China changes frequently, so check with contacts on the ground for which is best.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Google Fi is theoretically accessible here with a VPN, but most expats sign up for local mobile service. WeChat permeates almost every aspect of daily life, and you need a reliable connection to make WeChat work. That said, mobile phone plans cost a small fraction of what they would in the U.S. (and nearly every shop/restaurant offers free wifi, enhancing the life span of your data allotment).
From a hardware perspective: assume that any phone you’re using in China will need to be replaced when you leave. Android products don’t work well here, since you usually need a VPN to update the phone software. Apple products work great (and can be obtained locally), and there are plenty of cheaper Chinese options if you want to go that route.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
We don’t have a pet, so we don’t have experience with veterinarians here. Many people own dogs and cats, although there’s not a ton of space for large dogs to exercise. Chaoyang also has strict size restrictions on dogs, however, so if your dog is larger than a dachshund or beagle, you’ll likely need to live in Shunyi.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Outside of the Embassy or the international schools, working on the local economy is nearly impossible. That said, Beijing is a huge Embassy with lots of EFM positions (including many EPAP opportunities). USG employees cannot work from home, so you’ll need to negotiate for desk space at the Embassy if you want to work as a DETO. It’s theoretically possible to telework from home for a private sector employer, assuming you can navigate the broader internet/VPN issues noted above.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
The PRC government is generally suspicious of non-commercial interactions between foreigners and the local community, so meaningful volunteer opportunities are limited.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Embassy dress codes vary by individual offices, but outside meetings typically require business dress (suits or equivalent). PRC officials typically dress in suits.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Other than routine traffic safety concerns, Beijing is one of the safest cities on the planet. You can’t walk more than 10-15 feet in any direction without passing a security camera, law enforcement, or a private security guard – so street crime is almost non-existent. Police typically allow law-abiding foreigners to live their day-to-day routine without undue harassment, but there’s always a risk of capricious exceptions (a risk that increases for those of Asian heritage and/or diplomats working on more sensitive portfolios). Private expats should also be mindful that any legal misstep, no matter how small, can result in prosecution and a protracted judicial process.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
In the post-COVID era, Beijing doesn’t have any disease concerns beyond what you’d see in a large U.S. city (although schools do enforce fever/illness policies far more strictly than U.S. schools do). Beijing’s private hospital facilities are nearly on par with top hospitals in the U.S. and Europe, although the number of western-educated doctors in China has decreased in the past 5-10 years. English is also widely spoken at the top private hospitals. That said, quality of medical care and English proficiency are lower outside of the major Chinese cities. It’s possible to medevac for childbirth and significant issues, but many Embassy staff members have stayed in Beijing to treat major medical concerns.
Dental care and orthodontic treatment are excellent, and typically less expensive than in the U.S. (although you may need to shop around for the best prices).
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Beijing’s air quality has dramatically improved in the past 10-15 years. Bad AQI days certainly still exist, especially in the winter and summer, but it’s not uncommon to see weeks of blue sky and clear air during the spring and fall. The Embassy provides several air filters for each residence.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Anyone with severe asthma or respiratory ailments should think twice before coming to Beijing. As noted above, Beijing’s air quality has improved significantly in recent years, but there are still days/weeks when the AQI surges over 200. Similarly, although large restaurants in predominantly expat areas (like Chaoyang and Shunyi) often understand food allergies, the risk increases the farther you get from these establishments. Chinese dishes rarely use milk/dairy, but all the other major allergens (including sesame) are commonly used. If you do have a food allergy, memorize that word in Mandarin and consider carrying a Mandarin language card – easily ordered online – that you can hand to your server.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Living in Beijing during the Zero COVID era was very stressful, and many locals and expats suffered significant mental health issues. Newly arrived expats will not experience Zero COVID, of course, but even minor illnesses remain a sensitive topic for schools and the local population.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Beijing has four seasons. Winter arrives quickly in mid-November and is always harsh and dry into February, followed by a rapidly warming spring in March/April. Beijing gets summer hot by mid-May, and it remains hot with increasing humidity and rain into July and August. Fall arrives in late August, and brings several weeks of mild, sunny weather through mid-November.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Beijing may have the largest number of top-tier international schools of any overseas post. Academic quality is on par with the best U.S. private high schools, and the facilities are on par with smaller U.S. colleges. Most Embassy kids attend Western Academy of Beijing (WAB), International School of Beijing (ISB), or British School of Beijing (BSB), but there are several other options. Many Embassy families stay here four or five years simply due to the schools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
No direct experience. Anecdotally, however, we understand that Beijing has reasonably strong resources for special-needs education.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
No direct experience. Several international schools offer preschool options for potty-trained kids as young as 3. For younger kids and/or after-school care, ayis (nannies) are widely available and relatively affordable.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Middle and high school kids have countless sports, performing/visual arts, and similar opportunities through their schools. Elementary kids have a lot of choices as well, although some activities are limited to the upper grades. Private sports clubs and arts classes are also available, although these ebb and flow somewhat based on local interest.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Beijing had an enormous expatriate community prior to COVID, but the expat population shrank by an order of magnitude during the Zero COVID era. Expat morale also plunged over the course of the Zero COVID era, driving even long-time expats away from mainland China. Expat numbers and morale have improved significantly in the post-COVID era, but the Zero COVID experience has indelibly shaped expatriate opinions about Beijing (and greater China).
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
As noted elsewhere, the PRC government discourages most non-commercial interactions between expatriates and the local community. That said, despite the Zero COVID exodus, there are still many expats in Beijing and the other large cities in China. There are countless restaurants, expat social clubs, and other ways to socialize with the broader expat community.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Beijing is a great city for families. The schools are outstanding, activities/attractions/travel are affordable, and crime is almost non-existent. Beijing is also a great city for couples: there are a ton of things to do in and around Beijing, as well as travel opportunities all over China. For singles, it depends on what you’re looking for. On the one hand, there are lots of singles both inside and outside the diplomatic community, so it’s easy to make expat friends. On the other hand, given the PRC’s unspoken restriction on expat-local relationships (and cultural expectations in many Chinese families), the dating pool is more limited than other countries in the region.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No direct experience.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
See above. Regardless of your role/occupation in Beijing, there is an invisible boundary between local Chinese and any expatriate – particularly for Americans, although increasingly for other American-allied countries. Many foreigners of African and/or Asian ancestry (particularly Chinese ancestry) have reported incidents where they’ve experienced prejudice from the local community.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
See above regarding prejudices. Gender equality is more nuanced. On the one hand, many Chinese families have traditional expectations about male/female roles within a household, and the PRC government is heavily dominated by male leaders. On the other hand, educational and professional opportunities have dramatically expanded for Chinese women in the past 20-25 years, which has significantly reduced gender inequality in white-collar, urban environments.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Within Beijing: hiking the “wild” parts of the Great Wall; eating amazing local food at hole-in-the-wall restaurants; people-watching at city parks on a fall morning.
Outside Beijing: visiting the pandas in Sichuan; sailing down the Li River; experiencing the sheer diversity of greater China every time we traveled to a different dity/region/province.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are hundreds of things to do in Beijing, and thousands more in the other parts of China. If you can’t find something interesting or fun during your tour… you’re not trying hard enough. As for hidden gems, if you don’t have food allergies, walk into a busy local lunch spot and order the same thing as the Beijinger sitting at the next table (or point at anything on the menu that looks good). Local Chinese food is amazing, diverse, and nothing like the “Chinese food” you’ve experienced at stereotypical Chinese restaurants in the U.S. or other places overseas.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
In theory, yes. However, it’s hard to find handicrafts in the heart of Beijing (or Shanghai and other large Chinese cities) that aren’t mass-produced for tourists. However, if you get off the beaten track, especially in smaller cities or more rural areas, you’ll have more luck finding something unique.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The PRC government and omnipresent police/surveillance state are stifling at times, but Beijing has many layers. Walking the side streets, eating at local restaurants, shopping at local markets, traveling anywhere outside the city center...these are the real advantages of living in Beijing (or elsewhere in China). And if you have kids, the schools are truly amazing at all levels.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
We knew that Mandarin would be hard to learn, we knew that work would be stressful (albeit very interesting), and we knew that we’d never be able to experience everything that Beijing and China had to offer in a four-year tour. However, we never imagined how long Zero COVID would last and how challenging it would be to live here during the Zero COVID era.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Likely not. We are truly grateful to have spent time here after Zero COVID disappeared, but we can’t forget how difficult it was to live in Beijing during the Zero COVID era.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
any electronic devices you intend to use after you leave.
4. But don't forget your:
less than top-of-the-line iPhone, i.e., new enough to handle all the apps you need to survive in China, but old enough that you won’t mind replacing it at the end of your tour.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Too many to recommend. The best strategy? Pick some aspect of China that you’re interested in: film, cooking, ancient history, contemporary history, literature, etc. and just dive into it.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Everyone who lived in China at any time between November 2019 and January 2023 was impacted in some way by the initial COVID outbreak and the Zero COVID policies that followed. During the worst of Zero COVID, anyone traveling to China endured two to three weeks of solitary isolation in a government-run quarantine facility immediately upon arrival. Schools and stores were shut down at a moment’s notice, daily COVID tests were required to do any activities outside your home, and the threat of forced hospitalization and residential lockdown loomed over everyone (even diplomatic families). Living in Zero COVID China was a traumatic and stressful period for our family, and it would be hard to return to Beijing given our experiences. On the other hand, China is the most fascinating place we’ve ever lived, and we have many wonderful memories of the people and places we encountered during our tour. If we had not experienced Zero COVID, we would happily return to Beijing again.
