Rio De Janeiro, Brazil Report of what it's like to live there - 08/16/13
Personal Experiences from Rio De Janeiro, Brazil
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No - 2nd expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Employee at the U.S. Consulate General.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Apartments only. Consulate housing, and pretty much all housing in Zona Sul is old, poorly maintained and small, despite the astronomical rent. Loud, dripping window units in the bedrooms often aren't enough to beat the heat in the summer. Commute time to work from where most housing is located averages about an hour, but can be much much longer in traffic. The white-hot real estate market in advance of the upcoming mega-events means that tiny one bedroom apartments go for thousands of dollars a month in rent and the MGMT section struggles to find places that are suitable size for folks. Nearly everyone lives in a place smaller than what is allotted. Recently the Flamengo neighborhood was re-opened by RSO and that will really help as apartments there are larger and much closer to the CG.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Prices are more than double for many things, almost double for most. Right now the dollar is strong so that helps, but groceries and dining out are easily the biggest hunk of the budget. You can save some if you purchase at street markets. Average quality dinner for 2 people will be US$70. Nice places will set you back US$200 easy. If you drive an hour out of town, prices are more reasonable, but you will spend two hours getting there and two hours back.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Mexican food, motor oil, Indian food. You can find most things here except cheddar cheese for some reason. Most things you can ship DPO.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's and Dominos. Twice the price as in the U.S.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitos are, surprisingly, not bad. Little ants and a few small lizards...not really an issue.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO takes about 2 weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Expensive by LA standards. Difficult to find good reliable help...ask around the CG to see if someone's maid is free one day a week. Families have struggled to find good nannies.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Crummy, poorly maintained gym in the building. Several broken machines, a few that work, and a smattering of free weights.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Don't do it. I'd say half the employees in the Consulate have had their cards cloned at some point. Use the ATM in the building and watch carefully any time you pay with credit card. I've had 3 cards cloned since I've been here.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. Many U.S. shows are broadcast with PY subtitles. Movies are usually in English with subtitles except animated films. Great theaters!
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A lot. Even English teachers in Brazil don't speak English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Metro is currently under construction so more or less useless right now, but when it was working it was clean, air conditioned and relatively efficient. When it reopens it should be a lifesaver. As it is, you have to take taxis, or risk your life on the public buses. Taxis are safe and reliable but pricey. Buses are cheap and dangerous. Between January and April of 2013, 87 passengers were killed in bus accidents, and 23 pedestrians killed after being run over by buses. They are your only option for daily commuting, and they are a menace to society.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Smaller is better do to expensive gas, parking and narrow streets, but anything will work here. Parts and repairs are outrageously expensive and poor quality. Prices for tires and oil are particularly obscene. Driving at night here is a death sentence. Brazilians drive wherever they want, whenever they want, signals and traffic rules be damned. They LOVE to turn across your front from three lanes out. You learn to drive with one hand on the horn and one foot on the brake at all times. I've taken to wearing a crash helmet.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. US$120 month gets you cable TV and good, fast, reliable internet.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
CG will supply yours and one for your EFM if you pay a low, monthly fee. SIM cards are cheap and easy to find, service is good.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yes. Brazilians are crazy for their pets. Pet shops are usually staffed by vets and they are everywhere.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No, unless you can teach at the American School.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business causal. Ties and chinoes, no suits unless you're around the front office. In public, you can go outside in your underwear and flip flops and nobody will give you a second look.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Um...yes. Crime is better now than it has been historically but it is definitely still a dangerous city. In the past 2 years, American tourists have been murdered, gang raped, kidnapped and shot. Political unrest is rampant, with 1,000,000 people protesting in the streets in the past few months. Tear gas and riot police are ubiquitous. Buses, cops, firemen, teachers, bank employees...all have gone on strike in the past year. Friends have been held up at knifepoint and gunpoint, some people more than once. Pickpocketing is very frequent. Credit and debit card cloning is rampant. The ONLY safe ATM machine is inside the CG. Bus drivers are psychotic and will regularly run red lights, skip stops, drop passengers in the middle of traffic etc. Traffic fatalities are among the highest in the world.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Good medical care, but expensive. You pay cash at private doctors and get reimbursed by insurance. The nurse can set you up with English speaking docs, many were trained in the U.S. Several people have had their babies here and had good experiences.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate. The stagnant humid summer months make the auto exhaust very noticeable...the rest of the year the ocean breezes make it negligible.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winters are very pleasant, with a month or two of cool, damp, sometimes drizzly days. Summers are hot, hot, hot and very humid. Always a chance of rain, but it doesn't usually last very long. When it does rain, the entire city floods. I've often walked to the bus stop through 8 inches of water.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Several. Nearly all the kids go to the American School, and I believe everyone is very happy there. IT is expensive, but falls within the allotted expense amount so parents aren't out of pocket. There is also a British school and a Catholic school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
There is one special needs school that I am aware of. Currently no kids there.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes. Very expensive. Many complaints about the price and quality. Preschools and daycares frequently close with little or no notice and folks have to leave work early/unexpectedly to pick up their kids. They also close for two extended breaks during the year.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. Soccer, Volleyball, swimming.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge.
2. Morale among expats:
Good. The grit, grime, crime and terrible infrastructure wears on you after a while, but there is a LOT of fun to be had in the city.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The beach and the bars. Every night.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for everyone, but singles seem to have more fun. IT is REALLY expensive to live here and a family outing to dinner can break the bank. It's also just kinda dangerous traffic is everywhere so unless you're walking around Lagoa, I'm not sure what you do for family fun other than go to the beach.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Despite the fact that half this country is black, mostly black or partly black, racism is quite prevalent. It's much worse in the fancy Zona Sul area where most CG housing is located. The only black people who live around here are maids and nannies so everyone will assume that's what you are when they see you. It's not violent or debilitating racism, but it's noticeable every day. Store clerks will follow you around waiting for you to steal something and if you try to pay with a credit card they will assume you stole it.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Road trips to Minas Gerais, Ilha Grande, Paraty, Buzios...any time you can get out of this ridiculous city.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Buzios, Paraty and Ilha Grande are all a day trip and all are phenomenal and beautiful. Off season prices are affordable. The main problem is traffic trying to get there.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Bikinis.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The beach, day trips outside of Rio, never more than 100 yards away from a bar selling ice cold draft beer, hiking, boating.
11. Can you save money?
No.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Despite all these gripes...yes. It was a great experience and I've had a lot of fun, but I am ready to go. The city is loud, filthy, dangerous and corrupt beyond imagining but the countryside outside of town and the sleepy villages a few hours away are heavenly. Amazing beaches obviously. Plus, there is truly something to be said for being able to walk across the street in your bare feet and underwear and start drinking beer at 9am. Plus, everyone pisses right in the street here, which is rather liberating.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations that this is a glimmering, shimmering, cidade maravilhosa...it looks that way from afar, but as soon as you get up close and personal, you'll see that this city is run down and dirty, and patched together with tape and glue. Everyone loves it here at first, and everyone is absolutely ready to leave after the first year.
3. But don't forget your:
Banana hammock swimsuit and bronzing lotion...Brazilian love nothing more than grilling themselves in the sun....they are professional sun bathers.
