Rio De Janeiro, Brazil Report of what it's like to live there - 06/18/11
Personal Experiences from Rio De Janeiro, Brazil
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, sixth expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
California - a 15 hour trip.
3. How long have you lived here?
3 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Almost exclusively apartments. These are generally of medium to low-range quality. This is a function of the ridiculous increases in rent over the past three years, and the general trend to build poorly and to do as little maintenance as possible. It is said Rio looks like it was built in the 70s and in a hurry. That said, if you can put up with delays in maintenance, most apartments are in Leblon, Ipanema and Flamengo. The first two neighborhoods are great for walking around. Walk to the store, to shopping malls, to cafes and restaurants...walk everywhere. It is great. The latter is a close commute to work and those apartments generally have panoramic balcony views of pao de acucar.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Expensive. Expensive. With the exchange rate taking a nose dive during my time here, it was not fun. For example, I recently splurged and bought salmon filets for $30/kilo. You can't do that everyday.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Sunblock, hair waxing kit, refried beans and some sort of machine to make tortillas.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Lots of fast food. No Taco Bell.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Lots of gluten free, I see it everywhere. Not sure why, but it's there. Organic is growing in popularity but not as common as in the U.S. You have to know what days to show up at the supermarket.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Some, dengue is near epidemic levels. Several Consulate employees contracted a virulent strain this year. Luckily they pulled through.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch mostly. Management at the consulate discourages the use of APO because of the delays and historic lack of security.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I hire someone to come in once a week. It costs me $50/day.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Many options, some very good, all expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Lots of cloning. Use a credit card with a low limit for your day-to-day shopping.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Interdenominational, Catholic and Anglican are available in English.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
I get all my news from the internet, CNN International and Fox News Channel, which is available on the local cable plan.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It helps a lot. Cariocas are not as bilingual as their cosmopolitan cousins in Sao Paulo.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many. This is not an ADA friendly city. Elevators frequently don't function and vehicles are not exactly respectful of pedestrians, much less those who might be challenged in their mobility or speed.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Not so much safe, but yes, very affordable.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Smaller is better. I would also consider a Hyundai or small Ford, both have excellent local service available at dealerships.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, very expensive. Packages for phone, cable, and internet start at about $150/mo.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The consulate provides a phone. Don't bother with something expensive or fancy, it will likely be stolen within your first year.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Limited, but yes. The consulate frequently has jobs that go unfilled for family members because many of them prefer not to work or don't want to work full time.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Very casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
YES. Every week you hear of someone else being mugged or robbed or stopped in an arrastao. These are essentially road blocks set up by armed thugs where they just walk from car to car and take your belongings. If they really like it, they can even try to take your car.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is ok, though overly bureaucratic. Consulate staff need the help of the nurse each time they go to the hospital or emergency room to make sure they are attended and not turned away for inability to pay upfront.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Decent, but I have no previous issues.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Summers were a bit too hot, but the rest of the year was always excellent. I am afraid California winters will seem to cold now.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Several options, most kids attend EARJ. It has a good reputation and even a small program for special needs kids.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Some, not anyone's specialty in Rio though. EARJ is trying, but I would talk to them first and for a long time before agreeing to come if I had a special needs child.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
No personal experience - though I know of several people who paid lots of money for the service. I think most people with small children end up hiring a full time nanny. Seems like a better option, but is still pricey.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, both at family clubes like Flamengo and some gyms. Football and rowing seem to be very popular, as are martial arts.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Medium, lots of oil company folks.
2. Morale among expats:
High, I think. In spite of the crime and poor quality of housing, I think most people really like living in Rio. Everyone seems to find a nitch and falls into it comfortably.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Again, lots of options. Everything from all you can eat sushi to burlesque dancing with a side of BBQ beef.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes to all. Families would do well to join a clube of some sort - Flamengo for example. This provides a park-like setting, swimming pools and other benefits. Not a lot of public parks, except of course for the beaches and the lovely area around Lagoa.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Absolutely, lots of night life and other options.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I think racism is quite common, but never discussed. Brazilians take great pride in being egalitarian to the point that they won't discuss the fact that economic disparities are almost perfectly corrolated to race. That said, I doubt any American would experience any hostility.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Carnaval was my first all-nighter in about twenty years; that was a lot of fun. I traveled in Salvador and had a terrific time taking in sites and a completely new local cuisine. My favorite thing there was the Folk Ballet in Pelourinho. I was also able to travel a lot to Sao Paulo and enjoyed it every time. Great municipal gardens and museums, not to mention food from all over the world, including some of the best Italian food outside of Italy.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Wow. If you can imagine it, you can do it in Rio. Except maybe skiing. Well, there is water skiing. There is every option of nightlife, from smooth jazz bars to heavy metal clubs. You can learn to samba or skydive or surf all on the same day. You can even take a class on existential thinkers from the Casa de Saber in Lagoa and then go clubbing two blocks down in Ipanema. You can be existentialist and hedonistic in the space of three hours.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Internal travel: Ouro Preto, Foz, Tiradentes, Sao Luis, the options are amazing.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Great culture, friendly people, fun language.... I will miss the weather, the beaches, the laid back lifestyle and the amazing food.
11. Can you save money?
No. NO. NOOO.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. I hope to be able to return someday.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
winter anything.
3. But don't forget your:
sunglasses, bathing suit and camera (but make it a simple, small camera).
