La Paz, Bolivia Report of what it's like to live there - 08/14/22
Personal Experiences from La Paz, Bolivia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Have lived in Europe, Asia, and Middle East.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. No direct flight. Have to stop in Bogota. Won't get into La Paz until 2am. The only daily flight from Bogota. Very few flights into and out of La Paz.
3. How long have you lived here?
Several years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic Mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is ok. Mainly stand-alone homes or nice apartments. All have at least 2BR's, maybe 3-4. All in Zona Sur. But where you will end up can be luck of the draw based on what's available when you arrive. Commute to Embassy is about 25 min.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Not bad. There are several grocery stores and local markets. If you can't get it here you can order through Amazon through DPO.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
La Paz is not a big city so food options are much more limited compared to other South American cities. And Bolivian food is not exactly diverse or great compared to other countries in the region. There are food delivery apps but you will need cash. Some international options but are of mediocre quality.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
No, nothing lives at this altitude.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch. Stuff from Amazon usually takes a couple weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Fairly inexpensive. Of course the quality varies. So getting a good recommendation from a coworker is vital.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Embassy has a gym. There are private gyms in Zona Sur but never checked them out.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Kind of. A lot of stores will accept but it is a big cash economy. And they don't like large bills. ATM's usually have fees for US cards.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Spanish is necessary. Few speak English proficiently. You will need some to get by day to day. There are local tutors available for a reasonable price.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, La Paz is a very hilly city with poor infrastructure.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There is an amazing cable car system but the closest station is a little far from where folks in Zona Sur live. Taxis are cheap but low quality and not always reliable. No ride sharing apps because of how powerful the taxi unions are. And there are no real traffic laws here. I never took the bus.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A small SUV with good clearance, especially if you want to drive outside the city. And one that you are OK getting dinged up.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, takes a couple weeks to install. Pretty cheap and fairly good service, comparable to U.S.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Local plans are cheap and have tons of data.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some work at the Embassy. Not sure what's available locally.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual. Few Bolivians wear a tie here.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Fairly safe for South America. Just use common sense like you would in a big city.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Yes, the altitude. This is the highest capital in the world. It affects people in different ways and there is no way to tell until you actually arrive. And you never know if your spouse or children will have health problems as a result. Just walking 15-20 minutes can take alot out of you and leave you out of breath. People medevac on a regular basis because health care is not good here. Tons of foodborne illness that will get you sick monthly, sometimes E Coli.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good. Pretty clean and crisp air.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
This can be a tough place for all, but especially those with food allergies as the food is not that diverse. But I guess you can make do with careful planning.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The altitude and isolation seems to affect most. Morale is not that great.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It is crisp in the morning and evening but pleasant and late spring-type weather during the day. Rainy season is not that bad in the winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
ACS Calvert is where folks go. Has a good reputation.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty small. Morale is fairly bad. Most South Americans would rather be in Colombia, Argentina, etc. They are here because they have to be for work. And few at the Embassy had La Paz as their top choice (or even in their top 5). Most are counting down the days until they leave.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
A few bars and clubs if that's your thing. But not much of a social scene here.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Perhaps families. For singles it's pretty tough, can see everything in about a month.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Bolivians are pretty friendly, overall. But you need excellent Spanish to make deep friendships. There is a large indigenous population in La Paz.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is tension between the indigenous and mestizos. Fairly macho culture.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Salt flats have to be seen. But you won't be doing much regional travel unless you are rich or want to blow your budget on that. Foreign flights are expensive, at odd hours, and infrequent. Santa Cruz is the big commercial capital and a much better city. More restaurants/bars/cafes, sea level, more flights (including to Miami), always summer-like weather.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Some cool crafts at local markets.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Good weather.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How different it is from a post that is popular and gets tons of bidders. La Paz struggles to attract alot of bidders. And that affects alot of things here, especially morale. And how isolating it is. And how the altitude really does a number on you.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. And I think that opinion is widely shared. I've served at multiple posts and this is the worst one.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
hopes for regular regional travel (unless you can afford it). Summer clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen and sunglasses. It is intense at this altitude.
