La Paz, Bolivia Report of what it's like to live there - 02/13/19
Personal Experiences from La Paz, Bolivia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This was our first tour.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home city is West Palm Beach, Florida. There are no longer direct flights to La Paz. Connections include Bogota, Colombia, or Lima, Peru, and Santa Cruz, Bolivia. Flight from Miami is 7 hours, not counting layovers. This is a difficult country to reach by air. Visa costs are high, the altitude is physically demanding, the travel to and from the airport is dizzying, and local travel is not cheap.
3. How long have you lived here?
We have lived here for one and a half years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The housing here varies. I have seen houses in one neighborhood that are large and lovely with great yards. The neighborhood, however, is set off from main roads and there are fewer amenities close by. In lower Achumani the houses tend to be smaller, but there are parks every few blocks and grocery stores are walking distance, as is the Achumani market. Our house has six bedrooms (and six bathrooms!). There are a few houses in San Miguel that would be ideal for singles; San Miguel is a bustling commercial center in a central location with a lot of restaurants. I have not been to any of the houses in Calacoto. Commute time is approximately 30-45 min by car. There are some who have biked to the embassy and the teleferico (cable car) system also offers a stop that is a 7-10 min walk from the embassy. Most of the houses have skylights and carports.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is available, but not everything is good. Groceries are relatively inexpensive for non-imported items. Groceries can be purchased at stores such as Ketal or Hipermaxi, or at the open-air markets. The food in the grocery stores is less fresh than in the markets. So you have to choose between graying beef in a cellophane-wrapped, pre-weighed package, or bright red meat being handled by women who are simultaneously swatting flies and taking your cash with their bare hands. Produce is plentiful and very good, most of it imported from Peru, and always cheaper in the markets. Agriculture is irrigated with recycled water so all produce must be bleached. Good ice-cream and cheesecake are very hard to find. Most food items don't taste the way their American counterparts do, such as ketchup or dairy. A recent health report from the health unit found that over 50% of cream-filled pastries sold by bakeries and street vendors contained E.coli, so there's that. Household supplies are of very poor quality. We went through three garlic presses in a month before we gave up and had one shipped from the US.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Clothes detergent, hand soap, Pepperidge Farm Double Chocolate Milanos, nuts and dried fruit (pricey here). Things we did ship to post and were thankful that we did: paper goods (toilet paper, paper towels), maple syrup, beans (canned as well as dry- they are surprisingly hard to find here!), coconut oil, brown sugar (not sold in small grain sizes here), applesauce, sunscreen, brownie mix, mojo criollo (it's a Cuban food staple). U.S-Standard sized notebooks and loose-leaf notebook paper are extremely hard to find.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Safe restaurants include a fabulous sushi place (New Tokyo), Brazilian (Paladar). and burgers (Crafted). Good pizza is a rarity. We only eat at vetted restaurants, as proper food handling is not standard and digestive issues are a frequent concern. We have never had food delivered.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Americans typically pay upwards of 350 Bolivianos (abt 50$) per day for a housekeeper/cook/nanny. Often, they work in all three capacities at once. The locals pay about 70 Bs per day ($10) which might explain why it's so hard to find good help. Most of those in the American circuit have formed a sort of social circle and seem to be chatty and demanding. Hiring outside the embassy pool may be challenging but may yield better results. Most families here also hire a gardener/handyman as some of the properties have fairly extensive gardens. Our gardener built a raised garden bed for us to grow our own lettuce and herbs.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The local grocery store has a gym upstairs. There are local clubs such as Los Sargentos which offers horseback riding, a swimming pool, and tennis courts. The Tennis Club is a little more exclusive. The German Club is in the Achumani neighborhood, and several families take tennis lessons there. They also have a swimming pool, a gym, and playground facilities. The embassy also has a gym.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted at most of the nicer restaurants. We make most of our payments and purchases in cash, from the fruit market to dance classes.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
That I know of, Catholic and non-denominational Protestant. La Iglesia Biblica de Mallasilla offers translation by earpiece.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Every professional I have met speaks English including the kids' music teachers and tennis instructors. Most of the domestic staff pool and market vendors speak very little English. Taxi drivers are hit or miss. There are local language classes available.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Very much so! Hills are steep, stairs are ubiquitous, and sidewalks are hazardous with pits, cracks, small walls running through them, and often straight drops.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes. Taxis are so cheap and plentiful that you may find you don't need a car. The cable car system is clean, and a scenic way to get to the downtown areas or to El Alto. Many tourist-oriented locations, such as the Hotel Andino, will provide private bus from central areas in the Zona Sur or from the downtown.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A car with medium to high clearance that you don't mind getting banged up. Preferably something with 4WD if you plan to go exploring. There are age restrictions on imports.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most spouses work at the embassy. One works at a local Christian missionary school, and a few others work at the American Cooperative School.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The prevalence of E.coli, H. pylori, and salmonella are a major concern. Altitude issues are also a big concern- short term effects may include shortness of breath, dizziness, slowed metabolism, and dehydration. Long term cumulative effects at this altitude may be non-existent but for our family (and others) has included difficulty sleeping and anxiety. Post med-unit is well equipped to handle the myriad of digestion issues that arise. Anything that requires surgery will be a medevac.
2. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality is moderate. When you're a passenger in a rattling old taxi, bumping along with the windows down, and the trucks in front of you are belching smoke into the vehicle, it feels like you might have taken a few years off your life, but for the most part we have had no respiratory issues.
3. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Food allergies are not taken very seriously.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Being from Miami, La Paz feels like the land of eternal winter. Temps hover in the 50s some days during the summer. That brings me down. Prolonged effects from altitude and multiple incidents of painful diarrhea and vomiting can take their toll.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Over all climate can vary from moment to moment or even within a mile. Sometimes at our house I can be sweating in shorts, we can go up to the German Club a mile up the road, and be freezing. Summers are rainy. Temps can range from 50-90 degrees F, sometimes within the same day. The 50s are more common, though. Humidity is low. Winters don't feel much different- just less rain.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We know families who attend the French school, the German school, ACS Calvert, and Highlands Christian School. We have no personal experience with any of them except the ACS families which appear to be very, very unhappy. The German school follows the Bolivian school calendar, which runs February thru December.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool is available.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Our children take horseback riding lessons, flamenco classes, and tennis. Other families have children in gymnastics. Soccer programs exist at the German Club and in Aranjuez. Quality music instruction is near impossible (if at all possible) to find, and we have had to resort to online instruction.
Expat Life:
1. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a good post for families in the way that the Bolivian people are kind towards children and value family and community. We feel very safe here, and our children feel valued. There are some pretty good playgrounds and parks around as well. The only caveat with regard to families is that the larger the family, the greater the likelihood someone will not tolerate the altitude well. During our time here, there was a family or two at the embassy that had to split up for health reasons, with EFMs going back to the States to wait out the tour. But if a family finds themselves in good health here, it’s fantastic. Couples and singles will enjoy their time here if they can get out and get involved with community projects, adventuring, or hosting social events.
2. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
I think it is. Our family was fluent in Spanish, which was definitely an asset, but Bolivian people are generally very gracious and humble. If you make eye contact, they often offer a "buen dia!" as you pass on the street, or will wish you "buen provecho" (enjoy your meal) if they pass your table at a small restaurant. They greet friends and acquaintances with kisses and hugs and find Americans who wave at a distance to be stiff and comical, (but they only share that in private).
3. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Highlights included a trip to Mt. Chacaltaya, using the cable cars to get to and from Calle Sagarnaga, and hanging out with friends we made in the local community. Titicaca was lovely when I wasn't nauseous. Any chance I get to see Mt Illimani is also a special moment. We have trips to the Amazon coming up shortly.
4. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Parque Arquisamaña is easy to get to and has some amazing views of the Zona Sur; Parque Gimnacio de Achumani has the best stone slide; Flor de Leche is a local dairy that provides tours and lunch by reservation.
5. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
This is a good place to buy alpaca everything, and aguayo fabric. We have bought tons of tiny llama pens and llama pins and llama magnets to give as gifts. One Christian ministry here (Word Made Flesh) has equipped women to come out of prostitution by employing them in making lovely purses and handbags (Sutisana).
6. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Safety (from crime anyway), availability of mangos, and the vistas are incredible. Also, adventures are close at hand; climbing La Muela del Diablo, climbing the Andes, seeing the pink dolphins in Madidi or monkeys in Coroico, hiking the Choro Trail or biking Death Road, visiting Inca ruins, Dinosaur park, spelunking. We chose not to do most of these things because we have little kids.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Not sure. The anxiety and digestive issues have been really difficult to endure.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Beach umbrella and flip flops.
3. But don't forget your:
Long-sleeved sun-guard shirts and hats, and Chapstick.
