La Paz, Bolivia Report of what it's like to live there - 09/02/16
Personal Experiences from La Paz, Bolivia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. We've lived in Europe and Latin America. This is our fourth overseas assignment.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
DC. DC to Miami to La Paz. Miami to La Paz is direct on American Airlines. Approximately 7 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is superb. Big houses with 'quinchos' (outdoor barbeque), which is big for lazy family Sundays. Most all of embassy housing is in Calacoto (smaller houses, but near ACS Calvert American School), La Florida, Achumani (5-10 minutes farther away from school/embassy, but bigger housing, and close to fantastic market). Commutes from farthest reaches takes around 30 minutes to Sopocachi (where embassy is located). Calacoto take around 20 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Fresh produce abounds. Ketal and Hypermaxi are the two big supermarket chains. They both offer most everything you can desire. Of course, pringles and peanut butter cost more than in the States.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We don't lack for anything here. Whatever we deem too expensive locally, we order through Amazon and Wal-Mart. I believe consumables are still offered. We utilized that once, but it wasn't really necessary.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Surprisingly, for a landlocked country, there are several sushi options. Beef is big here, either top quality Argentine, or above average and slightly cheaper Bolivian cuts. There are several decent pizza joints, and a place called, The Factory, which offers a taste of home (think Chili's baby back ribs, draft beer, and blues music). No McDonald's. We do have a good local fried chicken place and Burger King. Bolivian fare is quite good, but it does get old sometimes.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Insects don't like 12k feet.....well, except for an occasional flurry of ants.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and Pouch. 2 weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is readily available. Work pace, capacity, and ethic is not North American usually. Very cheap for the region.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a fantastic (free) gym. There are many options around town for yoga, pilates, and typical gym stuff. There is a hash group, and don't believe the haters...you CAN run in La Paz at 12k feet. There are active running groups and the landscape is challenging, but gorgeous.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes to all.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need Spanish. You could get around without, but your experience would be limited. There are many options for tutors. I can't speak for price, but I cannot imagine it is expensive.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes! Cobblestone, broken sidewalks, severe grades up and down streets.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes. Taxis and 'trufis' (minibuses) are easy and good.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any car will do. Note that the Bolivian government has tight import restrictions (age/cost). However, you should be able to sell and recoup what you paid.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Speed is getting much better, but still lags behind other neighboring countries. We can stream TV and Netflix with no problem. Getting set up is also much easier than when we arrived.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are many cheap options. Bring an unlocked iPhone and you are good to go.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes. Bolivians love dogs.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Embassy jobs.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Plenty of charities.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal business attire with casual Fridays. Bolivians dress smartly.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really. Miner strikes on occasion. I feel safer here than any other posting, not to mention the States.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The high altitude creates challenges to varying degrees for folks. Caveat: I run here. It's not a big deal. That said, some experience asthma-like symptoms, headaches, and insomnia, due to the extreme altitude. You get 20% differential for a reason. Folks remedy this by taking things a step slower, drink lots of water, herbal tea, and be mindful that you are on top of the Andes.
There is a good U.S. style clinic. However, anything involved will require medevac to Miami.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate to bad. Dust and dry air is a big thing.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Not sure it's any different than the States.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Nope. If anything, it's too sunny.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Climate is absolutely lovely. Think San Francisco or San Diego weather. There is a wet season and a dry season. Otherwise, expect highs in the mid-70s F....every day!
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
ACS Calvert is the American embassy sponsored school. It is fully accredited and most of the embassy folks attend. The school has above average MAP scores for the region and for the U.S. The school is sending its seniors to very good schools in the States, including some recent Ivy League acceptances. Class sizes are higher in the primary grades. It offers K-12 and has over 500 students. Due to political changes over the last decade or so, the school has experienced a shift in demographics to more of a host country makeup. However, the school employs many high quality American staff, and is making a concerted effort to focus more on its international (read: American) clientele. After school, team sports, and extracurricular activites include: soccer (of course!), volleyball, basketball, swimming (the pool is the best in La Paz), drama, among others.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Limited, but depends on the scenario. I can't comment personally.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes. They are abundant and inexpensive. ACS Calvert offers several after school activities that keep the school age kiddos busy.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
ACS Calvert offers soccer, dance, music, etc....after school. There are other options around town, including at the country clubs (German Club, Tennis Club, Golf Club). My kids take golf lessons at the 'highest golf course in the world.' Also, believe it or not, the embassy has a fast pitch softball league, and there is a burgeoning little league that sometimes competes locally throughout Bolivia. It's pretty rough, but the sport does exist here.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Relatively small. Morale varies, depending on who you talk to. We've enjoyed our time here. My kids are happy.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Drinking, dancing...standard FS lifestyle. Also, there is a hash group. As mentioned before, the embassy loves its fast pitch softball team. Embassy folks attend lots of barbeques and get-togethers. It is a very social post.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, yes, and yes. This is an easy, comfortable place to live.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Relatively good.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes and yes. Skin color matters for some Bolivians. It is a patriarchal society.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
This post boasts incredible travel and adventure tourism. My son and I hiked the 40 mile 'Choro Trail' (Inca Trail), an ancient footpath starting at around 14k feet to around 5k feet, an incredible (free) trip that only requires your own backpacking gear. You can climb a 20k foot mountain (Huayana Potosi) with a guide for about 100-200 USD (quite challenging, but considered the 'easiest' in the area). You can travel to Rurrenabarque and see pink dolphins, anacondas, fish for pirahnas, etc...in the Amazon sub-region...all relatively accessible. La Paz itself is awe-inspiring in its natural beauty.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Choro Trail. Definitely.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Nah. There is plenty of artisan works to purchase, but it doesn't really float my boat. Silver and alpaca.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Cheap. Easy to get around, save money. There are lots of walkable areas in Zona Sur (where most expats live).
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
No real surprises.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Beach gear. Extreme hot and cold weather clothing. Although, you can 'escape' to Santa Cruz relatively cheaply to get a pool/spa experience.
4. But don't forget your:
Hiking and layered REI type clothing. The difference in weather is sometimes measured by whether you are in the sun or the shade.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you have any other comments?
Bolivians are very nice, mellow people. If you show them a smile and proper respect throughout all strata, you will do well here.
