La Paz, Bolivia Report of what it's like to live there - 04/06/15
Personal Experiences from La Paz, Bolivia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. We have lived in Managua and Rabat
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
La Paz is about 10 hours from DC, going through Bogota.
3. How long have you lived here?
Been living here for 9 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most, if not all, embassy personnel live in the Zona Sur, which is about 20 minutes to the Embassy. Houses are spacious and normally about 3 floors. Apartments are an option too, but I haven't been to one to comment.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
We do most of our grocery shopping at the local market, and for specialty items go to the supermarket. Imported goods are expensive, but local products are really cheap. I feel that you can find most things you need. The one thing we love that you can't find is 100% pure maple syrup all they have is the fake Aunt Jamima syrup. And I miss almond milk, also not available.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
100% pure maple syrup.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There isn't too much fast food, which I love. They have Burger King, and McDonald's will be coming soon. Starbucks is starting to pop up too, though not here in La Paz yet. There are plenty of cafe's and a handful of decent restaurants. I find eating out to be pretty cheap. This weekend we went to a TGIFriday's type restaurant and it was about US$50 for 3 adults and 2 kids.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are some ants in our home, but not too many.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is easy to find. We pay about US$325 per month for full-time help (she works Mon-Fri from 9am-5pm). We also have a gardener 1 day per week who we pay about US$80 per month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are plenty of gyms around. I'm not sure of the cost as I use the embassy gym. I know there is CrossFit and MMA type gyms too.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I haven't heard of any issues using ATMs in terms of theft. Not all ATMs accept my debit card, so sometimes I have to go hunting for one that will. Credit cards are accepted at most restaurants and big stores. Smaller restaurants and shops will only take cash.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are two English language services that I am aware of here in Zona Sur.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need Spanish for day-to-day communication as locals speak Spanish and Aymara (indigenous language).
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
YES. Sidewalks are NOT friendly in general as they are not even and in rough shape. Moreover, being in a valley, you're pretty much always walking up or down hill.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are cheap. It's about US$1.50 to go within the Zona Sur and about US$3 to go to the Embassy. But most taxi's are unsafe as they rarely have seat belts and you wonder how the vehicle is still running (they are pieces of junk). There are also truffis, which are taxi's that you share with whoever can pile in. They are really cheap, about US$0.30, and run specific routes. Same with mini-buses, which are mini-vans. New to La Paz are big, modern buses (comparable to DC metro bus system) and cost about US$0.15. Now there is also a teleferico system with three lines (more to come). If I need to take public transport, I use taxis.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Small SUVs are popular among embassy personnel, like RAV4s and Subaru Forresters. The roads here are rough, and there can be some flooding during the rainy season, so something with clearance and all-wheel or 4 wheel drive is recommended. Plus you're always driving uphill, so something with some power is good. If you're importing a vehicle, it can't be more than 3 years old.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but crazy expensive. We have a 4MB plan so that we can stream Netflix and Skype. We realistically only get about 3MB on a good day, and pay US$160 per month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I brought and use my iPhone 5. For 1GB per month plan with ENTEL, it's US$7 plus text and minutes. I normally pay about US$11 per month total.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I am familiar with HOPE Worldwide Bolivia. I'm sure there are more opportunities as well.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
We feel pretty safe in our neighborhood of Achumani here in the Zona Sur. I've heard of some car break-ins, but not since we've been here. I hear that things are a little more dangerous in the city center, more so at night. Overall we feel safe here.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The high altitude is a big concern especially if you have a condition that would be affected by it. If you get pregnant, you are strongly encouraged to leave post.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Good air quality. The only problem is that with the high altitude, it's hard to breathe.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather is pretty much fall-like all year round. There is a rainy season from around December to March. I normally wear a long sleeve shirt with a sweater and feel fine. In the middle of winter (July-August), I'll have a jacket as well.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most embassy children go to the American Cooperative School (ACS). There is also Highlands as an option, and a Montessori school. Our son is in 1st grade, so our experience is fine at ACS.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Our younger son, who is 2, goes to a neighborhood preschool which we (and he) love. It's a half day program, from 8:30am-12:30pm, and costs us about US$110 per month (includes daily snacks).
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I feel that the morale is good here. There is a good mix of families, couples, and singles. Also right now, the management team is amazing.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Get-together's, playdates, & BBQs at home are common. Going out to eat or for drinks. And sports - softball, soccer, tennis, etc.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think everyone can have fun here. This is definitely a great place for families as we feel safe, domestic help is affordable, and there is a lot of nature to enjoy. I would imagine singles can have fun as there is plenty of nightlife. Couples would find it easy to travel as most flights within country are only about an hour.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not sure.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I don't notice any racial issues being that La Paz is mostly indigenous.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
There is a lot of natural beauty here in the high Andes mountains. The salt flats of Uyuni (and its surrounding areas) are amazing, as is Sajama national park. If you love hiking and photography, this is a great place!
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Hiking is huge here. There are also a lot of markets for shopping.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Clothing and accessories made of alpaca and leather. Art.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You can save money, the weather is pretty consistent (feels like fall all year round), and there is a strong indigenous culture in La Paz.
10. Can you save money?
YES.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I didn't know much before arriving. I love all the natural beauty and differences in landscape. I also love the strong indigenous culture and influence.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
YES!
3. But don't forget your:
Sunblock (the sun is so strong here you get burnt easily), hats, sunglasses, sweaters, comfortable walking shoes.
