La Paz, Bolivia Report of what it's like to live there - 11/08/14
Personal Experiences from La Paz, Bolivia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Have lived in Latin America before and the Middle East.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
U.S. West Coast about 18 hours with a connection in Miami. You can technically connect in Bogota or Lima but the AA flight from La Paz to Miami is the only authorized U.S. flagged carrier.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is good -- mainly large detached homes with small gardens in quiet, safe, upscale neighborhoods lower in elevation (more air!). After reductions in local staff, facilities is a little slower to respond and less willing to help with anything but the most urgent requests; they say it's due to manning problems. Commute is 20-30 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
This is still a consumables post. It's hard to find some staples such as paper products (expensive and poor quality), non sugary cereals, snacks, variety of cheeses, decent toiletries... There are a lot of DPO addicts here
3. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The choice of restaurants was awful in recent memory but is improving. You can get somewhat decent Vietnamese, Thai, Indian, Korean, and Japanese food. Entrees are less than US$10 equivalent most places. You can eat for as little as US$1 depending on how brave you are. Gustu is the one true upscale restaurant in La Paz and can run you up to US$70 a person (a bargain for the world class dining experience). Bear in mind that food poisoning is very common and seems worse than other places, possibly due to the altitude, it messes up your body.
4. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Almost none. Occasional ants and houseflies.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch. It can take over 3 weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Less than US$20 a day for a housekeeper, many also cook and watch the kids for not much more.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, at the embassy motorpool and at the Marine House
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I wouldn't.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Spanish is essential here. Few Bolivians speak any English. You can get by with survival Spanish or take classes though the Embassy but you need some in order to meet people and enjoy your time.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Sidewalks are in awful repair or nonexistent. It can be hard for able bodied people to get around with the altitude. Ramp grades are very steep and most buildings do not have elevators. Medical care is very hit and miss.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Radio taxis are cheap and affordable. You should be careful hailing private cabs on the street as express kidnappings are on the rise. Trufis/micros are off limits.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
4WD is really helpful given the steep hills. Nothing too big as parking can be tough. Check with the CLO or your sponsor to find out what cars are popular, because vehicle part theft is a big problem and rare cars seem to be targeted more frequently than others.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but very expensive and not very reliable. We paid well over US$100 monthly.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine, vets are prevalent but their qualifications vary. It can be hard to get pets in and out as the one U.S. flagged carrier (AA) has an embargo on flying pets into La Paz. You have to cost construct through Lima or Bogota, which is much much more expensive.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. Job availability in the Embassy is also very tough with a lot of spouses who want to work and can't. It's gotten harder since USAID was expelled.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
A few for impoverished kids and homeless animals.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual at work. Casual in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Protests and blockades happen a few times a year and sometimes cause closures at the Embassy. Apparently this has gotten a lot better than it used to be, though. Overall La Paz is really safe. You have to be a bit more careful in El Alto but violent crime is rare.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The altitude poses a serious health concern and causes plenty of people to curtail. Pregnant women are medevaced pretty much immediately and lots of people have problems with high blood pressure. Medical care is abysmal for anything but the most routine things.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate. There is some pollution related to traffic but the main problem is actually the lack of air at 11,000-14,000 feet above sea level.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Due to the altitude, the weather is more or less the same all year round -- between 50F and 70F. The "rainy" season goes from about December to March but it doesn't really snow where housing or the Embassy are, and the rain only lasts for an hour or two a day. The weather is pretty monotonous, but a 45-minute flight will take you to the hot lowlands.
Schools & Children:
1. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are a bunch of preschools that are run out of houses and unregulated; one or two are popular within the embassy community. Nannies are inexpensive, equivalent of less than US$20 a day.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small and getting smaller. Morale is pretty bad. Lots of people talk about La Paz like it's a prison sentence.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Ha... Theoretically there are outdoor activities but the infrastructure is not developed, so you do it at your own risk. The social scene is pretty dead. Locals and expats stick to house parties and don't go out much.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families, yes. It's safe and schools are pretty good. Singles and couples can get frustrated by the lack of things to do in La Paz. It's kind of a small town. The local dating scene definitely seems to be better for single men than single women.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not great. La Paz is conservative but there are some fledgling groups starting to raise awareness.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Bolivians make a big deal out of being a plurinational state that allegedly accepts all cultures but this is still more a dream than reality, racism between European looking and non European looking people is still rampant. There is discrimination against women but it's not as bad as other places in Latin America.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Salar de Uyuni is beautiful. Not much to do in La Paz but some unique places aren't too far away.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Drive or bike ride to Coroico or Illimani. Sorata and Copacabana are popular weekend trips.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not much. The decent alpaca stuff is actually imported from Peru. Silver is available but not especially cheap.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The Andean history and culture are truly amazing, there is incredible geographic diversity, it is pretty inexpensive to travel within Bolivia, it's very easy to save money.
10. Can you save money?
It's hard not to save money.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably not. The altitude is seriously hard and the political situation really wears on you. The Embassy has had a lot of staffing shortages for a reason.
