La Paz, Bolivia Report of what it's like to live there - 01/01/14
Personal Experiences from La Paz, Bolivia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, several other posts in different regions.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
From Washington, the only approved routing is American Airlines through Miami. It takes about 12 hours with transit time. We're hoping a United codeshare with Avianca Airlines might happen as it allows some better options for onward connections and pet travel.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is primarily detached houses with yards; most are quite nice and perhaps architecturally unique. Houses can range from Alpine cottage type detail to concrete modern boxes. Most tend to have 3 or 4 floors with somewhat unusual layouts and sometimes trees and plants growing in indoor flowerbeds. There are a few apartments and townhouses which are also quite nice. Embassy personnel live in the Zona Sur, in the neighborhoods of San Miguel, Calacoto, Los Pinos, Aquisamana Bajo and Achumani. These neighborhoods also host many of the nicer restaurants and shopping options. Commutes to the Embassy are usually about 20-30 minutes at peak traffic hours.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are a lot of acceptable local or regional products available at reasonable cost. Produce in the markets is cheap and varied. Imported American and European products are available in the larger grocery stores like Ketal and Hypermaxi and in the Achumani Market but are often double U.S. prices. Availability is inconsistent so buy lots when you see it. Paper products, laundry detergents and cosmetics are expensive and generally of lower quality. Cleaning products are cheap but so-so and tend to be highly scented and colored. There are not too many international food products here like Indian or Mexican food, although strangely there are dozens of types of soy sauce available. Italian products are here but a bit more expensive. La Paz is a consumables post so bring any foodie/gourmet items you would miss and if you have kids that will only eat certain brands of peanut butter or cereal stock up and ship, you'll save a bundle.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More specialty baking supplies, gardening supplies, toys to give as gifts (toys are REALLY expensive here). A good gas BBQ would have been great-getting a regular BBQ here to heat up sufficiently takes a lot of work-things don't burn well with less oxygen in the atmosphere.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Not many American fast food outlets, just Burger King and Subway. There are a growing number of international restaurants that are pretty decent, usually under US$20 per person for a nice meal. There is a growing interest in gastro-tourism. Famous European restauranteur Claus Meyer recently opened Gustu which offers organic local Bolivian ingredients prepared in a modern international style. Most higher-end restaurants are European or American in style but you can also find Korean, Vietnamese, Japanese food although the quality may not be so great. Brazilian and Argentinian style BBQ is very popular.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
A few ants and flies from time to time and the occasional mosquito. Nothing major.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and pouch.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Good domestic help is available and reasonable, usually less than US$250 a month for full-time help for a housekeeper/cook plus health insurance about US$50 every 2 months. There is an extra month salary bonus required at Christmas. Gardeners are about US$20 a day. English is not widely spoken though.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are a number of social/sports clubs in La Paz of various types. Many embassy staff use the Los Sargentos Club which has gyms, a pool, tennis, horseback-riding etc. The nicest club with the best pool is the Tennis Club but it's expensive and doesn't waive initiation fees for diplomats-it does have a very nice facility in the countryside that you can use as a member. You can swim in the Olympic swimming pool that was reopened after being closed for decades-it's a copy of the one in Munich. There are weekly yoga classes at the Embassy during lunch hour and the Marines sometimes offer boot camps.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can use local ATMs here but it may take a few tries to find one that works with your U.S. bank. Withdrawal limits are pretty low (US$50-75) as are credit card purchase limits imposed by local banks so you may have trouble with larger purchases. Sometimes this can be solved by charging a lesser amount several times. It's still primarily a cash economy. If you use your ATM and credit card, monitor your account closely for fraud, it happens. Most embassy staff cash personal checks at the Bisa bank in the Embassy or use the ATM in the lobby.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are a few English language services in town.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Your life will be much more enjoyable here if you speak Spanish. English is not widely spoken. There are a lot of Spanish language schools in Bolivia and private tutors are inexpensive.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This city, located in a deep mountain valley, is difficult for most able-bodied persons to navigate. Most office buildings and houses are multi-story and many are without elevators. Many roads are cobblestone; when sidewalks exist, they are often filled with obstacles like vendors, construction materials and dogs. Accessibility is not typically considered, even in new construction, and places that could have been made accessible are often filled with unnecessary and inexplicable minor level changes.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local buses and trains are generally not recommended due to safety and security concerns.There are regular reports of catastrophic traffic accidents, especially with buses where 10 or more people die and dozens are injured. Taking shared taxis or "trufis" is dangerous as you just don't know who might get into the car with you. Radio taxis are safer and affordable but still rarely have luxuries like seat belts or airbags. It costs US$2-3 dollars to take a taxi from residential areas to the Embassy and about US$15 to the airport.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
In La Paz a sedan or smaller SUV/crossover vehicle is fine. Parking spaces tend to be narrow and small both out in town and at residences, so monster SUVs may be more trouble than they are worth. Most popular makes here are Toyota, Nissan, Jeep and Suzuki. You can also find an astounding number of old Volkswagen bugs! The government only allows diplomats to bring cars younger than 3 years old and limits the value of the car based on diplomatic rank. Cars do retain their value so you can sell your newer car for near what you paid for it when you leave post. Many have their cars "hardened" here which involves inserting structure around side mirrors, the hood and the electronic brain of the car to deter theft. It's probably not a bad idea to do but some members of the Mission have suffered repeated thefts despite hardening. It's also advisable to be very careful where you park and check in advance if there is secure parking at your destination.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
ADSL is available here but it is the slowest and most expensive in all of South America. Acceptable download speed for streaming vidoe is available for about US$100 per month but there are frequent slow downs and outages. 4G has just become available.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Blackberries are usually provided to all Embassy officers, pay as you go cell phones and service are reasonable to purchase for family members. The Embassy uses Entel, more popular are TIGO and VIVA. You can get sim cards and service for any unlocked phone.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine. Getting pets in and out of Bolivia can be a hassle. American Airlines is vague and generally unhelpful about pet shipping both into and out of La Paz - be sure to read the welcome cable for the latest information. Low temperatures in La Paz for the early morning arrival and high temperatures in Miami during transit can make travel arrangements challenging in the U.S. summer months particularly. Good vets are available and will come to your house for very reasonable rates, some even speak English. Grooming service is also available. Most people have their household help assist with pet care. There is a dog walker/trainer that has worked for a number of embassy families. Better quality dog food and cat food is not generally available-you can order through the DPO. There is some clumping cat litter available but if you are picky about this bring it in the consumables shipment.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Job opportunities are very limited for expats.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are many opportunities here. The embassy community has volunteered frequently at local orphanages, children's and cancer hospitals, shelters for victims of trafficking, under-resourced schools and wild and domestic animal shelters.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual in the Embassy, casual in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is probably one of the safer countries in the region from a crime perspective. There are the normal urban crime concerns, pickpockets in crowded or touristy areas and sometimes express kidnappings where, typically, taxi drivers take you to an ATM and force you to withdraw cash. Usually crime in Bolivia does not rise to the level of violence and gang activity that really limits the ability of expats to travel freely in other Latin American countries. However, Bolivians have a strong tradition of strikes and public demonstrations that can really affect life in this city. Sometimes they are aimed at the U.S. but even when they are not, transportation and business in the city regularly comes to a complete halt as one group or another blocks the major roads and squares, or takes them over with marches and protests. More alarming is the seemingly easy access to dynamite which is used often in protests.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The very high altitude can cause some problems and exacerbate existing health conditions. Most folks need a few months to really adjust to the lack of oxygen which can cause fatigue, headaches and shortness of breath. Some people find it interferes with sleep and digestion for most of their tour, others adapt fairly well. It's almost impossible to know in advance and adjustment is not necessarily based on your age, general health or fitness level. Food and water-borne illness is pretty common as are upper respiratory infections. It seems to take longer to recover from just about anything, even a strenuous workout. There is a good health unit led by a FS Nurse Practitioner and supported with a locally contracted U.S. doctor that visits a few days a week. There are some decent quality local doctors for routine care but any really serious conditions require medevac to Miami. Pregnancy is not advised here due to very high risk at altitude-this will usually warrant curtailment. Dental care is good and reasonably priced.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality is generally quite good with the exception of exhaust fumes in traffic.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's usually quite temperate and very dry. Temperatures are usually no lower than 40s (F), no higher than 70s (F). The rainy season is the exception when it can get quite dreary and cold, usually between December and March. Otherwise clear blue skies are the norm. The sun can be intense but when you get into the shade or the sun goes down, the temperature drops 20 degrees. It snows occasionally in the winter but doesn't stay on the ground long.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are two or three options but most Embassy families attend ACS. Some others attend Highlands. It seems like most parents are satisfied but there does seem to be a lack of extracurricular or academic enrichment activities.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Not much-do some research before you come if this is important for you.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Lots available, reasonable costs.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Probably through the schools.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The expat community is fairly small and shrinking. Many missions and international NGOs are closing or moving their operations to neighboring countries due to less than welcoming posture by the government of Bolivia and its tendency to expel or expropriate international aid and business concerns. Morale in the Embassy has suffered terribly in the wake of the expulsion of USAID and the closure of the remainder of our anti-narcotics operations in 2013. Literally hundreds of employees lost their jobs. With these recent blows and the continuing lack of an Ambassador since 2008, Embassy leadership has really struggled to set a new course.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Many people entertain at home but there are a fair amount of cultural things going on if you get into it. There are two decent movie theaters with first-run films in English with Spanish subtitles. Cinemateca is a good art house film theater that shows first run U.S., European and South American films and also hosts the national film archive. There is a bowling lane and a strange plastic ice-skating rink at the MegaCenter mall and a paint ball place. During the summer, there are music and dance performances and vendors every weekend on the Prado downtown which is closed to car traffic. There are regular art gallery openings to attend. There are a lot of classical music performances and visiting performers from around South America if you watch for them. Big American acts don't often come here as there are few appropriate venues for big concerts.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's probably a better post for families but couples and singles will do okay if they like to entertain at home or can make their own fun. Single men will do okay in the dating scene but the situation is definitely more challenging for single women.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's okay, not a huge open community or social scene.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
For expats there are not too many difficulties. This is a macho culture and there is prejudice against women and girls in many contexts. There is a long colonial history of oppression of those perceived as indigenous by those perceived as European. Arguably the majority of Bolivians have some indigenous heritage. There are signs everywhere that say all are equal under the law so it is obvious that a reminder is still necessary. The colonial legacy is still very alive here even with an indigenous president in office. There is not a huge diversity of religion, the majority are Catholic or Christian and there is little familiarity with other religions amongst the general population. There are very small populations of Jews, Muslims, Baha'i and some Korean and Japanese Buddhists. There are also colonies of conservative Mennonites that keep socially and culturally isolated, still speaking their original low German dialect.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Getting to know some of the local traditions like Carnaval, Alasitas, and traditional health practitioners like the Kallawayas. Travel to different cities that have completely different characters and climates. Seeing the amazing diversity of wildlife and plant life here.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Hiking and horseback riding to the "Muela del Diablo," visiting plant nurseries and walking around the moonscapes in Mallasa with lunch at San Aquilina pizza place, having drinks with an excellent view of Mt Illimani at Allkamari in Valle de las Animas, visiting the wild animal shelter Senda Verde in Coroico, walking tour in old La Paz and the markets of El Alto with Banjo Tours. Visit to World Heritage site Tiwanaku, Lake Titcaca and the Eco-lodge and natural hotsprings near Mount Sajama, rock climbing and, of course, mountain biking down the "death road" from the Yungas. There is a Hash group and its called the "Highest Hash," of course.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Beautiful llama, alpaca and vicuna wool products, leather bags, textiles, ceramics, silver jewelry with local Bolivianita stones (amethyst/citrine combo), artisanal chocolate, coca tea.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
La Paz is a pretty nice post for a 25% differential. There are many interesting places to visit in Bolivia like the Amazon (Beni), Tarija wine country, colonial Sucre, the Salar de Uyuni and the altiplano, the rainforest and pampas of Rurrenabaque, carnaval in Oruro. If you are really intrepid you can try the national parks in Pando. Although not always cheap, you can easily travel to Peru, Argentina, Chile and Brazil. Bolivians are generally warm and gracious people.
10. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The really incredible geographic and biological diversity here. There are a lot of interesting places and people packed into this small country. Some of the sites here rival Peru, Chile and Brazil-the Amazon and Andes particularly, perhaps less tourist friendly but also not overrun or spoiled either.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Bikini, fear of heights (everything is high at 12,000 ft!).
4. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, hat, camping gear, humidifier.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
"Once Upon a Time in Bolivia,"
"Yvy Maraey-Land Without Evil,"
Che (The Criterion Collection) [Blu-ray]
Blackthorn
Cocalero
American Visa
"Who Killed the White Llama? / ¿Quién mató a la llamita blanca?",
Even the Rain
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Whispering in the Giant's Ear: A Frontline Chronicle from Bolivia's War on Globalization
7. Do you have any other comments?
La Paz is overall a very nice post-the difficult bilateral relationship is a downer at work as is the constant negative rhetoric in the news and from government officials. However, regular Bolivians are typically very welcoming and interested in Americans and foreigners in general. It pays to get out and make friends with as many Bolivians as possible-your experience here will be much enriched.
