Manama, Bahrain Report of what it's like to live there - 04/08/10
Personal Experiences from Manama, Bahrain
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I have lived in Algeria, Jordan and Spain.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Our "home base" is Seattle, Washington, and the trip is long and arduous. It will soon improve (inshallah) since United started a direct flight from Manama to Dulles. From there to Seattle in only about 20 hours! (I can't believe I said 'only'.) Otherwise it's a stop in Dubai or Kuwait before hopping on a US carrier to Dulles.
3. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
DOS employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy employees enjoy quite decent housing. Most families (and singletons) normally occupy stand alone three bedroom villas in guarded compounds. These compounds often include pools, gyms, playgrounds and yards. Of course, it's too hot to venture outside for most of the year, but when those few months come around it's very, very nice to have the amenities. The only drawback is the commute from the Embassy and the Navy Base. Most Embassy personnel live in Budaiya or Saar area on the western half of the island and the morning and evening commutes can be deadly. The distance is only about 10km, but I've spent an hour in traffic due to congestion and construction. Beware of road rage.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is available. There are several 'package stores' where you can find any alcohol you like (for a price!) and most western style grocery stores have pork sections. The availability of certain items may vary from store to store, but after a time the discerning shopper knows where to find what they need. The only items I sometimes cannot get are quality pet foods (aside from paying crazy prices at the vet) and some favorite lo-calorie foods from home. Otherwise, we are truly spoiled for choice.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Really, can't think of a thing. Everything is available here. If you havea favorite product that you can't live without, you'll probably find it here, but it will be double the price. Stock up at home.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The food here is really good. American and Arab fast food chains abound. I'm not kidding either. If you see the streets near the Navy Base, you would think you were in the States. At the low end:The shwarma, juice and samosa stands are fantastic and cheap. At the high end, there are some fabulous continental cuisine restaurants, along with various excellent regional fare. And everything in between. This is really where East meets West and it's very easy to gain weight here!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are always insect problems, but I think less here than in, say... the Congo. Ants are bad in spring, so are mosquitoes, and there are normal cockroach problems, depending on where and how you live.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use FPO and pouch service. It's very convenient (again,we're spoilt) , but for others, there are several good services around DHL, FEDEX, etc.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Widely available and affordable. You can find live-in help (and villas normally come with domestic quarters) for about 120 to 150 Bahraini Dinars/month (about $400) or you can get part time help for 1.5 to 2BD/hour ($5).
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, there are some very modern gyms in the area, though quite expensive. There are often workout facilities in the residential compounds, but these can be a bit old and ill treated depending on where you live. It's worth investing in some home workout gear... being outside in the summer is just not doable.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It's safe. I've been here a year and have had no problems.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, all christian denominations, Buddist, and hindi. Haven't seen a synagogue, however.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, two main English language newspapers and the standard Gulf Showtime/Orbitz satellite packages.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Absolutely none. English is the common language here. In fact, if you TRY to use Arabic, 7 times out of 10 you'll get blank stares since most of the working population are expats!
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Not as many as in other places I've been, but it wouldn't be easy here, particularly in the older parts of the island.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains (it's an island!). Avoid the buses. Taxis are safe but VERY expensive -- particularly if you pick one up in the souk and don't confirm that he's using the meter. Talk to the sailors, they'll tell you.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
All cars are fine... particularly the more popular Japanese models. Plenty of parts and car repair is fairly inexpensive. It's pretty much the only thing that is.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It's available, though spotty and expensive. There's a new provider in town, so that may improve. The Kingdom of Bahrain blocks a number of naughty websites, so if you want to cruise porn or read seditious political materials you're out of luck.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
They are necessary and easy to get. Embassy employees are normally issued a cheap phone and a post-paid service, but family members will have no problem getting their own service. Coverage is very good, too. It's a small island!
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Technically, yes, but if you coordinate your pet's paperwork in advance, you can be met at the airport by a government vet and then have a thirty-day 'home' quarantine.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are some very good vets around (for a price!) and same goes for kennels. I'm pleased with the quality of care my animals have received.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really. It's difficult to get a working visa, and you have to get the proper sponsorship.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Conservative casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Bahrain suffers from seemingly cyclic tensions between the Shia majority and the Sunni ruling Muslim sects. We see an increase in anti government demonstrations and tire burnings during the cooler weather. This can result in violence, but it is almost never directed at expats. It's wise to keep away from it if you can avoid it. It's a bit scary to be stuck in traffic near burning tires and chanting kids.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is generally good. Plenty of decent western style care is available (for a price! Do you sense a theme?) and plenty of general practice as well. It pays to ask your neighbors for references, though, as it will save you some 'interesting' experiences.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The air quality varies depending on the wind. It can be very good on a still day (hot and humid, but breathable). But if it's windy, the whole island will almost disappear in a cloud of dust, which sometimes doesn't go away for days.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's very HOT and HUMID in summer. Quite miserable, particularly if you have to work outdoors. Okay in mid-spring through late fall. The winters are fantastic, however. For the three months it lasts, everyone is outside, and there are lots of outside activities sponsored by Bahraini and expat societies and clubs alike.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The schools are good and can be competitive. I don't have school age children yet, but for those who do and who don't want to enroll their kids in the DoDDs school in Juffair-- submit your applications early!The DoDDs school has a decent reputation- and a very good one for the early years. The big issue--as noted above-- is the commute to the other side of the island, which can be a lot for a little kid. There are private International schools on the Western part of the island that are quite good and very close to housing. There's also a great French school near Manama. Expats are not permitted to enroll in local Bahrain schools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
There are a few Embassy families that have found good schools for their special needs kids. I believe they are satisfied with the schools.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are many good international preschools in Bahrain and the curriculum ranges from US conventional and Montessori to UK, Indian, etc. My son goes to the Budaiya Preschool, a UK curriculum school, and we're very happy with it. The teachers are wonderful, both communicative and caring, and the student population is extremely diverse. My child shares his class with over half a dozen nationalities, which offers quite a lot of learning opportunities. The preschool also provides transport to and from school and they do Arabic classes three days a week.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Many! There are so many private programs available that it can be difficult to limit yourself to just a few. They do cost a bit, however, so that may in itself limit the over-ambitious parent.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
HUGE.That's why this place has so much to offer. Lots of expats working in Saudi Arabia use Baharin as a base for their families so there's a very diverse group of people here. The population of Bahrain is half expats (mostly Southeast Asian and Indian).
2. Morale among expats:
Varies. Some really like it, some really don't. Some peoples glasses are half full...some half empty. Totally depends on your own luck and outlook.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots to do depending on circumstances. Also, not much to do, depending on same. Social life is mostly home based entertaining, or club based with the odd charity gala thrown in.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a very good post for families and even for couples, but singles might find it a bit tougher. Unless you're a joiner (plenty of clubs around) you might find it boring. It's a small island and it can be difficult to get off of it. As mentioned, after the first few months, you've pretty much seen it all.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Homosexuality is illegal in Bahrain, but of course it exists. I don't much about the scene, though I'm sure it's out there.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There are indeed. If you're of European or Arab descent, there are no glaring issues. If you are of Indian or Asian descent then you will face discrimination.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
As I said, there's a lot for kids to do! My son adores the various clubs, gyms and water parks (there are THREE!) here. There are also periodic cultural festivals that are geared toward families, and those are fun.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Sailing, archeology (there are always digs going on), shopping.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Nothing really local, but Persian carpets and handicrafts can be bought at decent prices. Also lots of East Asian crafts.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The comparative ease of life around here is a particular advantage of this post. This is a very westernized country, and anything and everything is available-- at a price, of course! Crime isn't a huge problem, and the amenities are great. Every kind of restaurant imaginable is here, and there are lots of indoor activities for the kids to do in summer. Forget about touring after your first two months, though. It's an island, and unless you have a boat or like to fly, you've seen it all. Saving money can be difficult as well.
11. Can you save money?
Well -- I suppose you could if you're frugal. If you want to participate in sporting events, enjoy some nice dining, take home a few carpets and do some regional traveling (India is so close!) then nope. And really, why try? This can be a fabulous opportunity!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
heavy coats, mini skirts, and burka expectations.
3. But don't forget your:
swimming gear, lightweight clothing and money for carpets.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Nope, none that I know of. It's a pity.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
I don't know of any for Bahrain in particular, but the History of the Arab Peoples, by Albert Hourani, is a good (though general) base, and so is Understanding Arabs, by Margaret Nydell. I wish there were more.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Bahrain is a very cosmopolitan place. It's not as glitzy and urban as its Gulf neighbor Dubai, but Bahrain has more of a settled, greener, feel and can be a very pleasant place to live. Many of the resident expats have been here upwards of 15 years and they still love it. That said, most places are what you make of them, and Bahrain is no different...If you've been to other Gulf countries, however, you'll realize what a pearl Bahrain really is.
